JDcrawlers Messageboard

I stand corrected. Thanks.

If I remember correctly, there are two “studs” on the throw out bearing housing. One seemed to screw in too easily, and could cause interference with the tube; I used locktight to keep it in a good place. The other I also locktighted to allow the bearing to move on the tube freely. Good luck.

Hank, For a reference, I ran About 6 hrs a day for two straight days, and burned about 10 gallons of gas, 91 octane, no alcohol.I did have”fun”, but my body felt it. I’m tall, and don’t fit well inside the cockpit. My wife helped me fabricate a new seat Cushion and cover as a reward. I gave the doze...

So over the last few days I received multiple hundreds of yards of free fill. I'm filling and leveling an area where the tandems back in, usually two in a row, and dump. Then I need to move most of it to fill a big hole and maintain my grade. The fill included some pretty big rocks. Anyway, some of ...

Double posted, again. Sorry. I’ll figure it out.

Dtoots: I just readjusted mine too. In my case, I’m thinking that my left crank arm from the quill to the throw out bearing wasn’t set as accurately as the right one. If the clutches don’t fully disengage before the brake applies, there’s unwanted drag. My right turns are quick, and the engine sound...

I relined my 420 steering brake bands a few years ago with McMaster- Carr lining, rivets, rivet set, and special piloted drill bit. Cut the banding to length, spring clamped it to the cleaned and primed metal to get it shaped. Used a regular drill to locate and drill rivet holes from the outside usi...

Sorry, double posted. Paul

I’m in the go with the original system group. Over time I’ve rebuilt my whole 6v positive ground electrical system, and it works reliably. The starter cranks well, and the dozer fires up usually on the initial spins. I did go with a bigger battery cable to reduce resistance while cranking.

Pulling the final on a small dozer seems more daunting than it really is. The big parts are relatively easy to man handle, and the internals are easy to decipher if you have a manual. Take a slow and deliberate approach. I found the process easier than expected. Just readjusted my clutches and steer...

For the pulley, I’d suggest welding a short length of choker chain to the top cross member, then just hook in the last slider to it. This will swivel and hold up to the forces while winching. The load will lift and drop easily; just stand clear for safety.

By spinning, I mean barring over in neutral to see what happens. Good luck.

Can you get that side in the air? If so, try spinning that track without a load, slowly. If it binds, as Lavoy says, there is something broken, and if forced, more money and time will be needed. Breaking the track, and pulling a final is not that hard, Good luck.

Congrats. Now you'll notice how that side is more responsive than the other, and feel a need to go there too. Old iron is addictive. I fire mine up and take a romp from time to time to keep things loose; usually very pleasant. Ocassionally I have to clean the points to get 'er started, but most ofte...

It's been a while, but I never removed the gas tank to pull the starter. I may have had to remove the starter switch to gain some clearance. Good luck.