JDcrawlers Messageboard

Well Lavoy, you were correct. In one of my firsting posting I asked if a seized steering clutch could be loosened up without removal. You indicated I would have to take it apart. Well, it is a now fully apart. I do not think this clutch has worked for a LONG time. Of the six bolts holding on the pre...

Success! Used larger screw driver between housing and draw bar. My guess on the rust was correct. Very rusty inside. A lot heavier than I thought!!! Thank god for gantries. Certainly would not want to try this without some form of lifting aid.

Lavoy: Yes, the two bolts you reference are removed (they were under the machine above an access cover and shown in figure 170-10-4 of service manual). I did try the screw driver between the drawbar and also tried using a 5# lead sledge to "tap" the housing outwards. No luck. I will try to get a scr...

No, that was not shown in the service manual. Looking at the manual, looks like that is the the access cover to the drive gear. How will that help with the final cover removal? Looks like everything in there requires a press to remove. There appears to be two alignment pins that go from the final dr...

Well everything is off. All bolts removed, drawbar dowels removed but the final drive will not come off. Can not free it up between the rear cross bar bracket and the final drive case. Removed all 4 bolts between final case and cross bar bracket (they are wider in the middle of the bolt) At the top ...

Lavoy: Thanks for the infomation. I assume when you state a roller getting in the gears, you are referring to a roller from one of the roller bearings? I should get the final drives off in a week or two. Tied up on other projects but will let you know what I find. I am sure the parts list will grow.

I have removed everything required to remove both my left and right final drives. Goal is to replace the seized steering clutches. Have not removed the finals yet. Making my lifting ring. The left final appears fine. Little/no play in the sprocket shaft and little backlash in the gears. The right si...

Lavoy:

Thanks for the information. Will start taking the final off tomorrow. Left side looks easier but I will start with the right side anyway.

Lavoy; Thanks. Heat did the trick. Clink pin came out fairly easy. Another question. For a 440 Loader, do I need to remove the right fender and hydraulic value/fittings/hoses to remove final? Some of the hydraulic fittings, especially the metal "T" fittings look like they are not in the best of shap...

This should be simple, but am having trouble removing the pin from the master link. I have removed the snap ring and have tried to drive the pin out as per service manual. No luck. Soak it in PB Blaster, no luck. Have hit the pin using a 1.5" drive pin and a 5 pound hammer. No luck. I have not mushr...

Lavoy: Thanks.

Trying to figure out what what the shifter lever ( P/N M 120T) , which is located on top left of the transmission just behind the oil gauge, and to the left of the gear shifter guide , does?

Lavoy: thanks for the information. It is on grass right now so I think I will drive it on some plywood, hook my JD tractor to the bucket, and pull to see if it will slide and turn. If this works, I should be able to steer it into the garage Do you sell entire clutch "kits". If I go in there to rebui...

Lavoy: Thanks for the information. Just need to figure out how to get this into my garage to work on it. Will not steer in either direction so will have to get creative to turn it. I think this is my winter project!

The 440 loader I have will not steer, at all, but when you pull on the steering levels the brakes appear to work and the engine will start to stall. Looking in the steering housing from the top access plates it is apparent that everything is heavily rusted, which may also include the pressure pressu...