JDcrawlers Messageboard

You don't mention model, but I don't know of any where there is something else to remove save maybe a dipstick. You may have a bent shift fork or shaft out of position due to a bad bearing. Follow your manual.

Good write-up but I would add a step. After the final is slid out on the rods there is enough room to reach in and shove the shaft into the ring gear carrier. After that, alignment and protection of the TO sleeve and seal are moot. On assembly, put the shaft in first.

Sorry. Make that foot clutch.

Before you split it take all the free play out of steering clutch travel and see if it makes a difference. Don't split it if it is okay. Just restore free play and run it awhile.

I have one. Don't have the tractor any more to check serial number but was straight 350. Sent the parts and service manuals with the tractor.

I know absolutely nothing about 550's, but I would loosen the ends of the replaced hose and see if you can bleed out the air.

No. You don't need to do anything but split the tracks and remove the sprocket shields and sprockets. Find two 1/2" bolts 20" long with NC threads at least 2" but as little as possible. Alternatively, take two shorter bolts, cut the head off one and weld it to the threaded end of the other and then ...

Will the left side control handle pull back a lot before it gets firm or is it firm right away? Also. if holding the clutch pedal firmly up makes a difference it should show in both tracks, not just the left.

I'm just curious why you couldn't plug the busted line under the fender/floor and raise the loader. Then block it up, relieve the pressure, and go to work. Wouldn't it be the same as lifting a weight on one end of the bucket?

If schematics help go to jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com

The MC tractor parts book is PDF so you may have to eat lunch while it downloads.

If you let it run at idle when the misfiring first begins does this extend the life?

Sounds like neither clutch pack is releasing fully. The 25psi side releases them. Probably a control valve problem. Check the pressures if you are able and adjust the relief valve if that helps. If you can stand it for awhile they should loosen when it gets warm, but it is also wearing the packs.

If you have pressure or hear a distinct change in tone when shifting from forward to reverse in neutral then the pump and reverser are probably okay and suspect the splined coupling. If no pressure then suspect the isolator on the flywheel ahead of the reverser. But be advised that running with a bl...

If it happened all at once without noise it is more likely the splined coupling behind the reverser. Check your pressures, but the reverser will need to come out whether pressure is good or bad.

If your MC has the Yakima toolbar then don't expect the six-way to be as fast. In fact, the Yakima toolbar is too fast for good control.