JDcrawlers Messageboard

At that low price you have probably already sold it. I payed way more than that for a 1953 40C that i got running okay but left steering works erratically. Mine does have a winch but have not gotten it worikng yet. Nice carpenty on those windows in picture. cheers jim earls

Hope i am getting close to having winch operational. My lack of experience and the top priorities (garage) have pushed it back. Have a slew of questions but first a link to some pics (#4,5,6) http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2186322#post28651240 1. Went with 3/16" lining on brake beca...

Though far from an expert, and thanks to Paul's help and example, i have learned a little of the workings of this winch. When they sit in the weather water and dust can get inside both sides of the winch- the gear drive side which has 90W gear oil, and the clutch/brake side. The brake bands can rust...

Winch clutch and brake bands are being relined at Cowan's machine shop in Greenfield MA. They did an excellent job on the starter motor. The control cylinders are pitted at the end of travel and the better one still has a "step" on the bottom after honeing. Very reluctant to purchase 2 stainless sle...

Thanks to Paul's help was able to get the u-seals mailed from Antrim NH. Control cylinders are honed and ready for assembly with new rubber cups. Still waiting for machine shop to reline brake and clutch bands. Cleaned the housing and drum with brake cleaner but wanting to lash down cable/hook and s...

Did not realize entire drum is one piece and is held by inner bearings/shaft. Too bad there is so much clearance drum to body to let in rain and dirt. anyway contact surfaces will have to be cleaned in place. The manual said could use the tapped holes on three armed casting to also push off the oute...

Thanks again, Paul. Will get a three jaw puller- also will be replacing bearing as it's quite rusty. Was thinking of need for knife edge puller, not necessary. Removed two neopreme cups from the threaded/notched bearing retainer, then as you did used heat and a brass drift to loosen. Do have the loc...

Paul Thanks and please excuse my ignorance: 1. What puller is required to remove the bearing. I tried prying it evenly with two curved bars. Not much room behind bearing. 2. Don't know the place referred to as PB&H in NH. 3. it looks like you removed the brake band parts and i gather you did not rem...

Had my starter rebuilt after i also ran it too much and the battery posts got hot. I carefully cleaned the posts and put a little goop around the base so the battery acid would not leak out. Anyway the armature was shorted and i was happy to get a new one for 50 bucks. With new brushes, bushings and...

Thanks Paul. Turns out cover came off easily. Looks like the contaminated brake fluid seeped into bearing so it is slighty rough in one spot. The brake bands look bad- heavily contaminated, a little chunk missing near the attachment point. Top brake cylinder was completely retracted but i was able t...

Actually about a third of the pads were loose (18+-) and it took the application of heat and hammering down the bolt heads that were somewhat "proud" and the old breaker bar/cheater pipe to adequately tighten the pads. One is a little bent (curled) near the outside edge but should be okay. Would lov...

For help. Turns out the footpad is missing the lever and everything- even the attachment bolts are broken off. A neighbor has a three roller 40C (or MC) and his has the complete assembly so i will use that as i guide to make up something comparable. Mostly working on the winch- got the 1.5" rubber c...

If the lever is arranged like the one on my 40C, the yoke holding the two pushrods has a pinch bolt with a washer . Once the bolt is out if you carefully pry up the washer you can slide out the shaft. The washer indexes in the shaft lie a woodruff key. The control lever is attached like that also th...

Serviced right side final drive (changed gear oil); hydraulics will need several changes as well as engine, tranny good. Drained and refilled winch (did search and read some helpful posts on the gearmatic 8A) though undoubtedly needs some slave cylinder work so still not working and will not try unt...

Please excuse my being so dense but the most sensible hydraulic oil i have found so far is NAPA AW32 which should be equivalent to 10W oil as called for in the manual. Would that be okay to run? Will not be working crawler that hard, especially in the hot summer months. Also found some "instead of l...