JDcrawlers Messageboard

I don’t think you will have any problems with the pads warping. I wouldn’t weld rebar on them…just buy some flat bar that’s precut. I know the price may be prohibitive but the money and labor spent on welding just doesn’t add up to welding rebar over a better option. Are the bushings in good enough ...

dabear3428 wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 05, 2026 5:58 pm

btw i did try as suggested and buried the blade, the dozer stopped moving but the track just started digging holes, so i think all is good.
just need to redo the seat and maybe some plastic handles for the controls.

Sounds like you got a good machine.

jimmydiesel wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 05, 2026 4:33 pm

Nice it was the simple fix. I’ve done 2 sets of steering clutches in the last 9 months. About to do an engine clutch. Fun fun.

Pay attention to the protrusion on the clutch disc itself. It only goes one way if my memory serves me. In or out I can’t remember but certainly one or the other.

The simplest things

I like the bronze disks. They’re an upgrade to the fibers and will preform better overall. If they get soaked in oil they can be removed, cleaned, and reused. Those fiber disks will swell and become oil soaked and will have to be replaced if too much oil gets on them. The teeth won’t break as easy a...

I had totally forgotten about those disconnect levers…it’s been so long since I saw one I forgot they existed.

Better safe that sorry when pulling a heavy part…broken parts cost time and money.

I welded nuts in their place when they were needed. I don’t believe a skid plate needs that many bolts holding it. Every skid plate I ever removed was so bent up that the bolts were nearly impossible to put back in place anyway. I know they serve a purpose but geez a man can only do so much.

I hate those captive nuts.

Glad you got it repaired.

The hard shift can be adjusted out via a spring within the control valve. Removing the bull nose from the crawler is the hardest part on engine removal in my opinion. I always hope the person before me didn’t rebolt everything on it. Four bolts hold the whole engine on the reverser. I use an 24” ext...

I’ve never had to do this repair myself, but have had a few reversers out for other reasons. In looking at the tech manual I see a gasket that could be your issue. I would highly recommend buying a tech manual if you don’t already have one. You will have to pull the engine to access the front of the...

Does the hydraulics run off a pump that’s turned from the front of the engine?

If so see if there is a spring action disconnect. This will disengage the pump from the engine and would relief any drag the hydraulics have on the starter.

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Ok, I’ll plug and check the line(s) going to the steering valve and see what I find. Before I worked on the crawler I was able to spin the tracks in first gear, now I can’t do that. All the pressures seem fine except the 20 pounds I’m getting when placed in forward or reverse. I’ve not ran the crawl...

Alright I was able to get a few parts in and test the pressure in the valve body. After doing the checks and adjustments outlined in the TM the best pressures I could get are listed. I had to add a few pennies in the two valves and adjusted the restriction orifice out five turns. The crawler moves a...

👍 Sounds like a fight for sure. It only goes in one way, so if you get it out take note which side faces out/in. Those bolt holes in the bottom require it to set correctly. I guess the good news is once it’s out you can put the blue wrench to it and if the broken bolt is coming out this will make it...