JDcrawlers Messageboard

Look at photos of a 440 with the idlers and see it they would hold the track close to the same level.

I have a set of 440 tracks and the chains are the same size as my 420 (pads 2 bolt vs 4 bolt however). I'm not sure if the gap where the idler runs would be the same on 350 chains.

Always interested in projects and photos!

Might turn easier if you pull the plugs, squirt oil in and spin it a few times with the starter.

My seat is moved back. I would not use any wood, steel only. And with a foolproof attachment and rear stop on the slide adjustment!

My butt is hanging out, there right over a nasty rotary brush cutter. Anything that might break or fail is not an option.

Fixing before it breaks is usually a lot cheaper than after. Depends on how many other parts it takes with it when it breaks.

One other thing. Fixing it it the shop is much easier than in the field. It usually breaks at the worst possible time and place.

I have a couple of 420's. You can't just raise the seat. At least that's what I've found. You need both up and back to keep the "working angle" towards the pedals.

It's pretty obvious that these machines were made for a smaller generation! At 6', long legs, big feet, I'm a bit cramped. It's more obvious if the operation requires a lot of movement, like loader or dozer as opposed to farming operations like plowing or discing. I raised the seat and moved it back...

If you flush it per the manual it's gone (water). Put in an additive it absorbs\changes it but it's still there. That's assuming there's enough additive to overcome the problem.

Got a chuckle out of your last line......

"Ease the shaft out...."

Given the project so far, I'm surprised to hear the word "ease"

The plug in your photo, what case is it in? Drain transmission\differential together? Must drain something!

I've only removed them when they were on the top of the sprocket. Front idler backed off, no binder. I used a loose fit pin to finish driving the master out.

I did use a binder when reinstalling it.

I know it's a removal. The center wear point has gone beyond the track hole on the inside (it was still in line at first). The wear point is now catching the inside of the track on the opposite side. The pin has possibly dropped down slightly into the wear areas and caught. Possible it's catching on...

If the outside is flush, it probably is the second side catching the wear ridge. You should be able to feel the wear area.

Can you tap it back out a little and get a strip of emery cloth around it to clean it up?

I bought a loader with cleats. Got it cheap too.

Why? Broken transmission case. Enough said...

Just stopped to think about that. First crawler I bought also had a loader and cleats...... And a broken transmission case......

A pressure wash, Dupont rebuild and he might get a bite. In spite of the money spent it looks like....