JDcrawlers Messageboard

I'm going to part out my tractor or will consider selling it complete. The reason for getting rid of it is that the transmission is bad. It is presently partially tore down from the front to the transmission and the transmission is apart. It is a 1959 model, serial 451xxx. It has a 6 way blade with ...

Thanks for the replies. I was thinking it was added on because the control valve isn't original. I don't have any pictures.

Mark:

What would mine be then? ( after market ? ) Manual angle, hydraulic tilt, inside mount.

Mark:

Unless there is something wrong with both my 40 and 440 the two pedals are not locked together and the clutch doesn't disengage when the brake is pushed.

Mark:

The first thing I would do is to see if there is spark at the points. Chances are that all it needs is to have the points cleaned up. My 40C will not spark at all if it sets more then a month or so. All I do is run a point file or some emery cloth through them followed by a clean rag. As to the plug...

Sounds like some thing sticking. May be the rod from the governor to the carb. or may be the governor weights or shaft that the weights control. Mark:

Brian it is surprising what one runs into for repairs on these things. I've made a few along those lines myself. Mark:

Brian I don't think there is a bushing in the support. At least I have never seen one. I wonder if somebody didn't turn the shaft and install a bushing in the support. The parts book lists M 2266T as the bushing number for the idler and rollers. I was able to get them from Deere about 8 years ago. M...

I have no idea what the diameter would be, but if the shaft is wore any amount it will have a shoulder. The shoulder would be more evident on the front of the shaft. Mark:

I can't help with your problem, although I had never heard that there was a difference between dozer and loaders. Only in year, but I'm probably wrong.

What I wonder though is how does someone lose something the size of a final drive. Mark:

I know a lot of people will disagree but if they aren't bent too bad and not kinked I straighten and reuse them. I've done this on 2 cylinder engines as well as 6 and 8 cylinder engines, and never with any problems. Mark:

My 440 had one of those self circulating tank heaters.

Mark:

It's not hard to adjust the fingers but I'm pretty sure you will have to pull the final drive again. I believe there is a special tool but I just measure them with a rule. I set mine at 13/16Th's but this may not be enough on the 440. I thought of another possible problem. Did the hub that the fibre...

Did you adjust when the brake band applies. There should be an adjusting screw that starts applying the brake after the clutch starts to disengage. If that screw hits the brake band too soon the brake will apply before the clutch disengages. Mark:

It's for a Model 40 four roller serial # 62264 and above. Mark:

I just did a little more checking and the 440 # is M2769T