JDcrawlers Messageboard

I do not think Clarence is referring to a series circuit - if I read post correctly you would both end up with 12 volts A lot of them had two hot cables off of the disconnect switch 2 two grounds others used two connector cables & one ground as well as one hot so long as it ends up being positive to...

I have been welding for little over 40 years - you can not build up a 350 sprocket,worn as badly as you described to something like original -for less money than you can buy an aftermarket one - Thats assuming you have to buy your own welding rod and your time is worth more than $1.00 an hour

I posted before I was through
I said to look at final because it looks like a wet spot on bottom pads just in front of sprocket.

It probably is the steering clutch ,and track adj.
but if I understand you right the track got lose at the same time as the loss of power? I think I would look to see if final is leaking and for debris . are you getting any strange noises ?

Years ago I encountered this problem with a 1010 gas , ONE feed was PLUGGED - It had a dual feed tank - check and make sure that yours is not suppose to be one- possible a previous owner changed it

send me your email address

Take some mig weldind wire, tie washers in ,at couplr of places, - when you drive in pin it will cut the wirw off.
I freeze master pin , overnight if possibly- every little bit helps

Actually you are both right- The traditional 7018 is as jdemaris stated-but in recent years -they also came out with an ac version quite often refered to as Easy Start. Also 6010 & 6011 are sometimes right and some times wrong ,when used as a root bead- it depends on makeup of the rod and the materi...

My experience with salt tracks is- If the machine sets for periods of time you will get some seals that leak. When you get them turned the seals can prove to be quite expensive. Some machine models seem to really benefit from salt tracks others do not A lot of track shops do not lubricate properly w...

I assumed he was talking about the rear crossbar. It is not uncommon for high mileage machines to wear the ft. and bottom of the bar, where the track frame meets the bar. The holes in the track frame get larger, the bar gets smaller, and the track frames walk around- resulting in problems with the f...

Don't bother taking crossbar out- Get a competent welder to build up in place, then grind it smooth and round- really not a bad job.
BUT You must also build up the hole in track frame, and that is A whole lot more Tedious to get done right.

I used straight 450 parts cat. - but admit that is confusing the way they list it - study the picture a little closer
This was a popular machine around here when they were younger and I have changed a lot of bottoms on them, which always included replacing wear bars.

Try the parts cat. 2 on top- 2 under = 4 wear strips per track frame The rusty rod-(which is the piston)is pushed out of the barrel (cylinder)by the grease pushing on seal & end of rod. The rod was only chromed for the first few inches, if you have grease at chrome the track adj. has failed- seal is...

Maybe i am thinking of a different model but the way i remember these is A. track adjuster seals mount on the end of rusty rod and slide back and forth in barrel mounted on idler bracket B The wear strip is positioned in the correct place. there should be larger one on top smaller one underneath. ne...

Several years ago I used a product called Red Seal or Red Ckek Seal, that I bought at the local automotive store. This is a single part, (no catalyst) very heavy paint like substance that will seal small holes. I have only used it once, but that tank was so rusty that it should have been replaced- i...