JDcrawlers Messageboard

We try to maximize the use of the front and back of the bushing/sprocket . We push hard going forward and walk distances from job to job in reverse

If you are going deep enough to replae the orings, go ahead and do the in-frame overhaul. You can be confident with what was done and what you have. Good Luck , Bruce

Welcome to the site from Western Iowa. Sorry to hear about your dealing with a bad person. It sounds like your head is in good shape. Did you run a staight edge over the block? Im terribly suspicious of the block or the orings in the wet sleeves. Sitting that long is really hard on them. ? Pin hole ...

Here is some good reading

http://www.titussteel.com/our-products/ ... procedure/


preheating will make the high carbon low hydrogen electrode puddle and flow much better. Striking and starting cold with 7018 is not ideal, but it can be done

No damage to the chain even a SALT chain. Only preheating to 300-400 degrees. The big boys will weld one lug per pad. The lug is much less than 1/3 of the width of the pad. They will alternate that lug, one on the left of center the next right side of center. I don't think one way is better or worse...

Willie, I'm sorry I miss read your original post. I'm not certain of the metallurgy of the pads, they definitely need pre-heat. I agree a center piece on one pad and then inner/outer edge pieces on the next pad pattern. This is the pattern Deere used in the two cylinder era of track type tractors wi...

Dan at Omaha Slings as recommended a 1/2 inch 6X26 cable for my 3325. Korean made is $1.85 and USA is $3.54/ft. I have not pulled the trigger,yet. I thought I would just throw it out there so you have some reference to go by. Good Luck, Bruce

I would use weld-on grouser bar steel. There are many different shapes and sizes. I would use a fairly straight profile if I were corking. Yes, is must be preheated and I would use 7018 electrode. Deere sold ice chaulks at one time. Screwed two on per pad. I priced them at $6.50 each. So I started s...

I have a AMBlue steel synthetic rope on my truck. It i very susceptible to abrasion. It doesn't like dirt and must be washed if dirty. Great for rescue/recovery , but I would not put it in the timber with my track machine. Bruce

Ebay is a good source for manuals that are less than retail. The tachometer is cable driven.

?The plug that takes a 3/4 square drive to remove above the tracks? The fill and drain plugs for the final drives are under the crawler. The plug above the track is the steering clutch housing. Im not aware of a vent. The steering housing can be seperate from the transmission or they can have a comm...

Is the pressure build up in the final drives? or the steering clutches? Bruce