JDcrawlers Messageboard

i am about 2 hours from crossville near i 75...37756 zip code.

i got to thinking about his pressure and it may be possible to tighten the fingers through the top covers. it would be a chore, but worth a try.

here is a link to some pictures of the front on the winch as well as the brake housing, cable spool area, and somewhat clean brake disks. i think i will install it onto the dozer and then be able to put some force on the spool to break it free. here is the link: https://pin.it/5rbvmneeoyndo4 thanks ...

Thanks for the info...I'll take a few pictures and load them today.

I have both manuals, but didn't realize the winch was in them. I' ll check those out. I posted from the john deere parts catalog on my second post to clarify. It doesn't show signs of ever having a rotory valve. If it ever did it was converted to the spool valve at some point. I got the plate, disks...

I'd say you answered your own question...the gauge is a must when you do anything in the final. Whether new or slightly wore it is necessary to set the fingers with the gauge. Probable always have the issues until the correct pressure is on those clutch disks.

B Town here is the link on the jd parts webpage https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/62257/referrer/navigation/pgId/185274 i am not sure what your link is, but it is not the same winch that i have. part # 12 the clutch plate...it sets in the drum with clutches and metal plates be...

i have been working on my 3315 winch and all looks good except the braking system...it is rusty and needs some serious attention. i am working my way into the clutch area and cannot yet remove the plate. i am wondering if anyone has any tips on how to remove it?? i can't see any obvious ways to remo...

Welcome dh1971

My '69 350 did the same thing as yours. What I found was the brake band would engage going backwards, but not forward. In my case this was a worn band, but you may get lucky.

Got it busted loose and switched out. Here are some pictures.

https://www.pinterest.com/jasonj1877/pins

doesn't sound too bad considering i will be tearing it apart for repair anyway. i installed an engine from a 350 C into my 350 straight and had to replace some items to make it work. as long as there is nothing rear of the reverser and shaft it doesn't sound like much of a stretch. may have to plug ...

nothing like a broken part to ruin a day...i'll see how it goes.

thanks

what type of success would one have in removing the reverser and converting it back to a pressure plate type set up?

anybody have any tips on removing the rear access panel on a 350 crawler? i have removed the 10 bolts from the cover and used a mallet to try to loosen it up, but can't get it to move...also tried to pry just a bit with a pry bar, but didn't have much luck getting a good bite. also didn't want to da...

to answer a few questions... i can move the reverser control handle from forward to neutral to reverse and noise and lug increase the further i move the handle...disappears as i move it back to neutral...lugs as i move it into forward, all of this occurs as i move the control handle between the sett...

Update... I'm on to the reverser now. The dozer will not move under its own power but can be towed. When I place the reverser in reverse there is a squealing noise as i release the clutch and the engine begins to lug and will die if I leave it in reverse. If I place the reverser in forward the engin...