JDcrawlers Messageboard

Never tried it that way but, if it works, why not! I leave the clutch on the final, pull the driveshaft (made a fixture to clamp on the driveshaft and pry it out), then remove the rods and roll/drag the final out supported by boards.

Not sure how we got from "pops out of gear" to "clutch is shot" but Lavoy is the best source of quality parts.

I assume you mean it is grinding in neutral with the cover on. And by grinding you mean like putting it in gear with the clutch out. You need to see if any shaft is vertically or horizontally "loose". The best way to do this is with a hook bent into a welding rod. Hook each shaft (with the cover off...

Unless you are trying to keep it "original" you can replace the whole cover with a "caged" shifter off a 420 4 speed. Some interference with clutch handles going into one gear (fourth as I recall) but reliably finds all the gears, including first!

On a dozer they would be in the front (bottom) holes on the final drive. Don't know about loader but suspect the same.

Just out of curiosity - why do you need to replace the whole engine?

DO NOT MOVE the dozer under power, and tow it judiciously. Sounds like a bearing spun out in tranny. The fact that the gear shift locks up tells you it is not the reverser. Using it may shell out many gears, including ring gear and pinion.

Can't see the pic unless you have a google account. I don't.

Sorry, but the only thing I know that turns at the speed of the input shaft IS that shaft. It runs all the way to the flywheel, so the sound may be originating elsewhere. BTW, there are two revolutions of the input shaft for every "pop". Don't know why it doesn't change with 1,2, and R and is not th...

Two things to check. Did you remove the input elbow from the carburetor and clean that screen? And did you open the load jet on the carb one quarter turn to see if that makes a difference?

Is the clanking related to ground speed or does it change with changing gears (in other words: Is it related to ring gear or transmission)? If it is related to ground speed then the problem is probably in the ring gear. If it changes with the gears it is probably transmission. If it is transmission ...

Assuming the left clutch/brake is properly adjusted it is probably the left clutch (slipping if it stops under load too). Back up to turn right to do your gravel and don't push heavy, but you are about to pull the left final and rebuild the clutch.

As long as you can get the snap ring on it doesn't matter. However, the T-slot ensured that any rotational movement would be in the bushing and not the link ends. You really ought to weld a lug alongside the head of the pin to mimic the slot and to prevent rotation of the pin.

I built a ripper for my 40C years ago. Guick-tach. Used a control valve off a forklift and cylinders from Harbor Freight. Welded 4"x8"x1/2" angle iron into box beam (last one I built for 1010 got a ready-made box beam). Shanks are cheap at the right place @$20. Would have helped to have a strong pla...

That is not acceptable behavior. Sounds like either the pinion or brake on that side has a problem. Don't use it until you pull the final and check.