JDcrawlers Messageboard

Does the machine run as it should? Is there a check valve on the return line that may be faulty?

Don't forget by forcing the grease into the cylinder, you're putting pressure in all directions in there and could force something to give(move) that you don't want to.

I don't remember for sure but are there a couple bolts underneath from the inside out?

Sounds to me that the clutches are releasing but the brakes are not holding. Might be adjustment, worn out brake bands(lining gone), or the brake bands are glazed over and not gripping. I agree with Leonardl, try adjusting.

Definitely cool!!!!

That's a lot of questions. A steady stream coming out of pump-NO. I believe the pump is the same as a gas engine distributor. It is how the cylinders are timed to fire. Fuel should come from one at a time and the pressure will force the injector open. The "check valve " needs to be there. I'm assumi...

With info from the manual and the guys on this forum, I'd say yes. Most anyone with a decent set of tools and common sense, can probably handle the job.

If the engine won't break free after soaking with penetrating fluid and trying to crank it over with the starter, force is needed. Using force, like a block of wood, will usually break it free but, the key word there is break. You can damage the top of the piston and, more likely, break the lans and...

After soaking the cylinders with PB blaster and the engine won't break loose using the starter, I feel the best way is to tear it down. After removing the crank, I use a block of wood to drive the pistons down and out. Clean the cylinders, piston, and etc. Do the appropriate measurements and get the...

Remember the old saying; YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR! Cheap and quality aren't always the same.

I think I'd center it so as not to tip the pad higher to the inside or outside. It might wear the sprockets, rollers and idlers unevenly. Probably wouldn't bother much in snow or mud but on harder surfaces it might.

Being a "C" model 350, I'd check the steering clutch housings for excess fluid.

I would guess that at the end of the crankshaft throw, top and bottom, there is a point where the piston stops. Being a new tight fit, you might notice a slight more resistance as it starts to move again. I'm talking about the slightest stopping of piston movement.

Other option is die grinder. Lavoy Thanks Lavoy. I bored the holes larger and it bolted right on, as it was meant to. It's on an IH 350 utility tractor and the loader made it steer too hard. I drilled new holes 3/4" back from the original holes in the pitman arms. Made it steer much easier but, a l...

Lavoy wrote: ↑

Wed Oct 21, 2020 8:17 am

Get a 5/8" car reamer, slowly drill through both pieces at the same time, it will make a new round hole.
Lavoy

Thanks Lavoy. I only need to enlarge one piece but, I probably will do all fourteen holes.