JDcrawlers Messageboard

Hi, Most times the moisture problems are condensation related since most of these older machines get used sporadically. However, water has a way of sneaking in so checking for any loose bolts on the transmission covers can't hurt. Since you're going to change the oil anyway, don't forget about clean...

Hi, No way to really flush this out. We had a similar situation and drained the fluid, cleaned the transmission screen, and refilled with fresh fluid. (Change steering clutch oil as well as the clutches share sump oil with the trans.) When we went to restart the tractor we disconnected the return li...

Hi,

These are junk. Fix it once, fix it right, and be done with it. See if Lavoy can help you with these parts, I'm sure he'll treat you fairly.

Thankfully Deere built a lot of these tractors so finding used parts in good condition shouldn't be too hard. Maybe Lavoy can hook you up, if not there are a lot of places that carry used parts to help out. 4k sounds pretty steep, I'm thinking you can save some $$$ by looking around. I've been there...

Hi Tom,

I learned the hard way about not fixing things right the first time when I had them apart. Maybe those parts will last 10K hours as is, or maybe they last 10 hours and grenade putting you right back at square one. I'd fix it and be done with it. Just my 2 cents.

Hi, I'm always of the mindset of fixing things once, fixing it right, and being done with it. Those clutches are junk (steel and fibers). The brakes are probably also as bad. For me, I know if I didn't fix it right it would fail right in the middle of a project and I would end up fixing it again. Ju...

Hi, I think trying Lavoy would be the first option since he sells parts to keep this site running. Now, just thinking outside the box here, a lot of old Deere equipment shared parts with ag equipment. (I had a 68 John Deere skidder that shared a lot of parts with 3020 and 4020 tractors. Literally al...

Sorry for the delay in posting these. Hopefully the link works showing the limb risers I made for my 450E. The square tubing and angle iron were left over from other projects. I bought 4 weld tabs to mount to the ROPS and hardnose. These are really nice quality and needed very little grinding to fit...

Hey Nick, So, how I've handled this kind work in the past is first giving everything a good power washing to get rid of any accumulation of old oil, grease, and crud. You'll probably need to use heat, a welder or grinder for disassembly and there's no reason to take any chances. Old manifolds can be...

Looks good! Not all bent and beat up like a lot I have seen. A little TLC and she'll give you years of faithful service. Good luck with it!

Yes, I've fought it on several machines over the years. It can be a challenge to clean up. There is always several gallons left in the system that cannot be removed by just draining the oil. That's why I take things apart and blow them out/drain them if possible. We had a tractor at work that the hy...

Hello, Standing at the back of the machine the hydraulic drain plug is located behind the trim panel on the right hand side. Remove the panel and there will be a pipe plug at the bottom of the hydraulic reservoir. Reservoirs are usually pressurized to keep out dust, so remove fill cap first to let o...

Hi, I made a set for my 450E. I did a Google search for a "kit" and it was $700-800. Yeah, no. I look for used, but most are bent junk. I made some out of 2"×2" 1/4" wall square tubing. I bought some 3/8" thick weld tabs from a 4x4 shop called Ballistic Fabrication for mounting to the ROPS and hardn...