JDcrawlers Messageboard

How many rollers, three or more?

Was nit running on one steadily or missing on both?

Heating it can ruin the seals. I have had good luck tapping with two hammers (opposite) while applying pressure on the zerk.

That fitting is for a Caterpillar. You should see two ports on the front of the tensioner. One is a 1/4" NPT grease fitting and the other 1/2" NC "setscrew" (which has a locknut on it and a ball under it). If the fitting has 1/2" NC threads then you need to use the other one with a grease fitting. O...

Line up the two lines in the window you opened. This should be numbehr 1TDC . The timing pin hole should be close now.

I am not sure by your description but it sounds like the pressure line is on the wrong end of the valve block. Make sure it goes past the relief valve on its way to the control valves. I HAVE seen backhoes plumbed backwards. They blow hoses or pumps.

In an earlier post you mentioned that the tilt cylinder was incomplete. Your best bet is to pull it backwards. If you need to go forward put two pipes (like 2 3/8" oil field tubing) under the blade.

Also check the rear end of the side frame where it fastens to the clutch housing as those like to shear at the same time. Be advised that you CAN remove the side frame from the machine easily unless the belly pan captive nuts break their cage.

Can't tell from the "specs" but is it lead-acid? The sealed batteries (glass mat, gel) don't deliver power as fast and battery experts discourage them as cranking batteries.

An increase of .004" on a diameter of only 3" would make the ring gap (circumference) nearly 0.010 larger unless my math is wrong.

The most rearward "split" is between reverser and transmission. There is a coupling in there that shells out quickly if bolts are loose. With luck you will only need a coupling, but reverser output and transmission input shafts suffer too. You should probably start at the front. Removing belly pan w...

This is over 56 years of memory talking and may not be accurate. I recall using a bottle jack and chain as a puller to get it off the three dowels after the bolts are loosened a lot but not removed. That and a sledge hammer usually worked, assuming the axle bearings were still good.

Check your boom lockout valve.

No. I meant put an o-ring on the smooth part of the shaft probably inside the "bushing" that the TO rides on. Small drips of oil coming from the quill end will drop onto the bushing instead of following down the driveshaft to the clutch plates.

If the drive shafts stayed readily in the "differential" then you had better check your pilot bearings carefully. Also, I would put an O-ring on the drive shaft on assembly to stop gear oil from traveling down the shaft, even with new seals.