JDcrawlers Messageboard

Unless the cables got hot WHILE you were cranking, I would suspect the solenoid.

Some of the systems of that era used plastic check balls in the control valve. The balls wear with time. If they wear enough to wander or stick they can total a pump. If your blade did not leak down then you had better check the control valve soon.

When it "won't go forward" pull both steering clutches for a couple seconds and then release them. If it "goes" then either the reverser pressure is borderline or the forward clutch pack is nearly worn out. Backing up a little gives it a short time under no load to fully engage the clutch pack.

Sounds like the forward clutch is not fully disengaging. If it happens at random it is probably a control valve problem.

My 3-roller measures 15.25" straight line (not perpendicular) just in case it is the same - and could very well be.

Aviation gasoline supposedly has no alcohol and may be cheaper than racing gas.

I have a 1010C with rockshaft and hydraulics but no lower or lift links. Am trying to adapt a 3-pt from a scrap JD 70. Need the length of the lower links and the distance from either end of lower link to attach the lift link. My old memory says the lower links should be much shorter.

Looking for a T18447T steering brake anchor for a 1010 or anyone with success in repairing one where it broke at the base of the nut.

Unless you can see the sleeve that the throwout bearing moving when you pull the clutch then don't take it apart. Do the top adjustments first. And don't drop any tools in.

The main clutch will be "thin" if it is slipping. In other words, the slightest pressure past free travel will increase the slip. You need to pull the engine, regardless.

It takes the same amount of torque to spin the tracks, regardless of the gear.

If what gear you are in makes a difference in the tracks spinning then it is the reverser. The steering clutches don't know or care what gear you are in, the torque is the same.

Pulse says points are closing and opening. Probably bad coil or wrong voltage.

Probably a blown headgasket between two cylinders. Barring over moves most of the water to the other cylinder. Crank a while and you may bend a connecting rod.

IF you are CERTAIN your assembly is correct (with six friction and five steel plates in proper position) then you can adjust the fingers. You will need a gauge available from Lavoy (usually). But it really says the assembly is not correct. You did not say which way the pressure plate is maxed.