JDcrawlers Messageboard

Put one on my son's and it made it much more usable pushing dirt. Also built a ripper to put on it. It had the hydraulics, rockshaft, and lift arms. Only had to build the bottom part (from a JD 70 scrap tractor).

I hate to get in on this but if it fired on starting fluid and then quit then either the smoking wire was shorted and the cause needs to be fixed or your problem may not be electrical. If your compression is good it doesn't need to turn fast on the starter.

My 40C has a single factory valve. Someone added some gate valves on the outlets to control a towed shredder. I took them off and instead put an old forklift valve in series with that single valve, mounting it on the fender, to control a shop-built ripper. Only use one half of the forklift valve. Wo...

In wet sandy loam a small (not tiny) 4x4 wheel tractor with long cable and snatch block should pull out anything a 440 would push out. Maybe add a ground-mount winch moved by the tractor front loader. Constant hookups are a pain but if you plan to raise hay the tractor will be more useful in the lon...

Sounds right to me. I left the dealership just when closed center hydraulics came out, so have no expertise in those.

If your second valve has its own relief then simply install them in series. The relief in the first valve is out of play unless it has a separate line to tank. If the second valve has no relief then you need to use power beyond stuff.

All I recall from this part is the severe bleeding from my right thumb. I think we pried the top over the cowl (panel under dash) and then cussed a lot. Make sure everything (like clutch spring) is disconnected.

With all the bolts out of the crossbar you can jack up the front of the crawler, lifting it off the crossbar until the side frame until it clears. Then hold your nose just right and cuss at it.

The reverser has its own oil supply and dipstick. Check it. Then see if it loads the engine in neutral with the reverser in either position (clutch out) or if only when trying to move.

Many years ago we used angle iron but cut four extra 1" pieces. We welded these onto the ends of the angle iron to widen the pressure points, especially on the gland.

The serial number shouldn't matter for the parts you would need. But if the problem is that the clutch will not release, not that it slips, then adjustment will usually fix it. If you do decide to tear into it, get your parts from Lavoy, the owner of this site, and upgrade to 420 clutches.

Get up against something firm, like a big tree. You should be able to spin the tracks in first gear. If either stops then you will be replacing clutches. Do both. Water and oil are not normal. Water can come from condensation or rain, but oil must come through a bad sea and will cause clutch to slip...

Lavoy has them. Just installed one from him. Great.

And BTW, if you put the reverser in forward with the clutch in, pull both steering clutch handles, then let the clutch out, and then let the handles go you may get a little more out of it and get it back to the house.

Before you tear into it change the filter (four bolts on the side) and the oil. Use Deere hydraulic oil. If the filter is collapsed or deteriorated (paper filters do that) you may need to change the oil more than once. It shouldn't be "getting better" if the clutch is really shot.