JDcrawlers Messageboard

Rob; I did not use hardsurfacing wire. I believe the only reason that there was wear on the cross bar and trackframe was that the crawler had been operated for sometime prior to ownership with the blocks that hold the rear crossbar in place missing. This let the undercarrage hinge on the front cross...

Rob; I do not have a lathe large enough to turn the cross member, but I have a friend who does. I was left in the shop he purchased. 6' bed. The ways are worn(out .001nearthe head). Not precision enough for crankshaft/engine work, but certainly close enough for the girl I run with(1010c). I will try...

Rob; I have a 61 1010c which i have been working on/restoring for some time. The piece you are describing, on my crawler is an intrical part of the track frame. Sounds like you will have to replace the frame. On my crawler the holes which is slid over the round bar(track frame rear cross bar) are ov...

Great video! Thanks. Mark

Was the boom for any specific purpose or just general lifting. Looks like it could come in handy. Mark

Do not throw that spring away. It does belong, at least on a 1010. I don't have my manual in front of me so I can not tell you the name of the part. I am sure that one of the more Knowledgable members of this board will reply with the name/part# before I get out to my shop, but if not I will give a ...

Craig; I really enjoy seeing pictures and hearing the tales of other peoples crawler rebuilding. It is reassuring to know that I am not the only one who has lost my mind! Merry Christmas to all.

Brett; Nice looking crawler. Mark

Dan; Page 2 of show and tell. topic is 1010 flanged axle repair. Mark

Dan; Had the same issue with my 1010. JD will sell you a rebuild for around $350. I used 309L wire and welded mine up myself. The dozer is not in service yet but I do not expect an problems other that normal wear. Some time back I posted some pictures and discriptions of work perfomed. If you do not...

Welding with a nickel alloy filler rod/ electrode is certainly an option. Pre and post heat is critcal. Silver solder is also a viable option, but will also require some pre/post heat . Silver solder will tolerate the inservice heat better than brazing. Mark

I am using 350 upper idlers on my 1010. The 1010 manual indicates 0.004 to 0.009 "s of end playis required. One of the 350 idlers I am using has 0.030"s of end play, with all but one of the shims removed. Is there a difference between the end play requirements between the 1010 and 350 idlers? Thanks...

Hopefully the pictures I believe I have attached will appear. If not I will try again. The pictures are of one of the sprockets from the 1010 I am rebuilding. Both sprockets are evenly worn. I took pictures of the best and worst looking teeth. I plan to change sides so as to even out the wear. My qu...

Not too be a wise ass, butif the oil was put in the clutch housings,Wow those were two very expensive quarts of oil even compred to today's prices. All should read and learn from your cousins mistake so as not to repeat. Looking at the bright side, you will have nice new steering clutch assemblies. ...

Nice job! Mark