oil on 2010 steering clutches

[Ashell]

I got my 2010 stuck in a unusual position in january and left it sit until the weather broke. The front end was up and and it had a lean to the left. I got it out and started checking things out to do some spring cleaning and now the left side will not pull nor brake. I pulled the cover looked at the brake band and steering clutch and they have oil all over them so I have to assume that the clutch discs do to. With out disassembly is there a way to clean them?

[Ashell]

I have since figured out why it happened mycover gasket must have leaked and filled my final full of water so it pushed the oil up into the clutches.
TIA
Alan

[jdemaris]

I have since figured out why it happened mycover gasket must have leaked and filled my final full of water so it pushed the oil up into the clutches.
TIA
Alan

I don't know what you mean by water pushing oil into the clutches. There are oil seals that keep oil from entering the steering-clutch housing from the trans or the final drives. Usually when they leak, it's because the ring-gear carrier bearings are loose and/or seals worn - or the final-drive input shafts. To fix right, you often have to shim up the bearings besides installing new seals if your leak is from transmission-rear-end oil or final-drive oil.

For a temp fix - I'll tell you what we used to do - but I am not recommending it. I can say that it sometimes worked for people. Dump a gallon of paint thinner in the housing. Then try to run it bit, and then pull the drain plug. Once empty run again and try to get it hot. When you park it - tie the steering-clutch lever back with rope or wire so the clutches don't get stuckand they can air out. That ought to be done every winter anyway.

[Tigerhaze]

Hi Alan-

You can do a search of previous posts on this subject, but I think you'll find the consensus is that in most circumstances there is little you can do except remove the final drive and renew the steering clutch. You may get lucky through using various means like Jdemaris or others mentioned in previous posts; it seems like there is little harm in trying them at this point because if they don't work you'll be removing the final drive anyhow. If you do get it unstuck, try and use that steering lever for a while to warm it up and dry it out as best you can.

Per one of Lavoy's posts, the steering clutch fiber discs swell once oil-contaminated and cannot be reconditioned- you will need replace them with new. Some people have mentioned cleaning and reusing the steel discs, but you would need to check the condition of them for excessive rust or missing teeth. It goes without saying that while you are in there it makes a lot of sense to renew or replace other accessible components associated with the final drive and steering clutch.

Others have mentioned that they ended up doing both sides because the improved performance after renewing one side showing the weakness in the other side.

I would recommend searching for "stuck clutch" in this forum and read the previous posts on the subject.

[jdemaris]

Hi Alan-

You can do a search of previous posts on this subject, but I think you'll find the consensus is that in most circumstances there is little you can do except remove the final drive and renew the steering clutch.

Per one of Lavoy's posts, the steering clutch fiber discs swell once oil-contaminated and cannot be reconditioned- you will need replace them with new. Some people have mentioned cleaning and reusing the steel discs, but you would need to check the condition of them for excessive rust or missing teeth..

I got the impression his brake and clutch-pack is slipping - not stuck? Either way - it depends a lot on one of two things:

If it's just a matter of oil in there, he may buy some time by running some thinnner in there.

If it's a matter of swelled fiber disks and/or rusted plates - then the total thickness of the pack elimnates all the free-play in the clutch. In that case, you can sometimes reach in and readjust the pressure-plate fingers to get play once again. Then, once you start running it - and it starts to dry out, the fingers will get lower on their own. Finally, they'll get so you low you've won't be able to disengage until the fingers get adjusted one more time.

When a machine is all apart, swelled fiber disks will shrink once dried out. I've seen many get heated with a torch and/or baked in an oven - to dry out the water and cook out the oil. But, who the heck wants to take the chance once it's all apart anyway? Real answer is - some people do. I've seen many loggers do it and get away it with - same with the brake -bands in their winches. I've done many of my own that way - but would be hesitant to do it with a customer's machine.
Steel plates are no problem to reuse if not badly pitted or warped.

350s and 450s had metallic disks available as a HD option (AT117553 and T44129) . They don't swell like the fiber disks, and also do not get stuck as easy. They are expensive though, and I don't think anybody makes them for 2010s.
Other companies, years ago, stopped using fiber disks altogether and changed over to metallic - e.g. an Allis Chalmers HD4.