Suggested Steps to Attempt "Unfreezing" 2010C

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
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Tigerhaze
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Suggested Steps to Attempt "Unfreezing" 2010C

Post by Tigerhaze » Mon Oct 13, 2008 12:48 pm

Good afternoon-

A while back, I bought a 2010 parts crawler (loader) and have been working with the previous owner to arrange transportation.

One of the issues it has is according to the previous owner, the steering clutches are "frozen" (rusted); thus the crawler cannot be rolled onto a trailer. I am totally going by the descriptions given by that person as I cannot actually visit the crawler; I bought it on the cheap mainly for the good undercarriage and other new parts on crawler so the actual reason for the "frozen" situation is not all that important to me right now but is a loading and unloading issue.

As to what I have been told:

1) Crawler has sat in weather uncovered for a couple of seasons in northern Illinois
2) Crawler was placed on boards and tracks do not themselves appear to be frozen
3) Engine was rebuilt about two years ago and ran well but is now stuck (based on trying to turn crankshaft)

So I have the following questions for those in the know:

1) Am I right to assuming that stuck steering clutches wouldn't cause the crawler's inability to roll (wouldn't it just keep it from steering)?
2) Am I right to assume stuck engine has nothing to do with this condition (I would assume that cold weather disconnect lever could be pulled to make sure)?
3) Is it more likely the brake bands are stuck again the clutch housing or drums? Can they be disconnected easily?
3) Could the H-L-R in any way cause the sprockets from rolling (assuming in neutral with gear select in tow position)?
4) Any thing else I'm missing on this?

Pardon my ignorance on these things but I haven't had the opportunity to inspect or take apart myself. Ideally I would like a quick checklist of things that the previous owner could try to make the loading/unloading easier.

One last thing- the previous owner offered to spray inside clutch housings with a rust penetrator. While we usually talk about not doing this, we are at the point where I will probably have to disassemble later anyhow. If there is some specific chemical to try, I would appreciate knowing that.

Thank you for your time
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Tue Oct 14, 2008 10:14 am

I would guess that it is the brake bands that are stuck. Have the guy back the adjusters all the way off, that may do it. As far as a rust penetrant, the best and cheapest thing to do is fill them with water, that will soften up all the rust in there. Once it will roll, just drain it out.
Lavoy

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Tigerhaze
350 crawler
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Joined: Thu Jul 06, 2006 12:13 pm
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Post by Tigerhaze » Tue Oct 14, 2008 11:41 am

Thanks for the advice- I will pass it along. :)
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment

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440dozer
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Post by 440dozer » Tue Nov 11, 2008 3:09 pm

i have filled stuck engine cylinders with brake fluid and let it set for a week or two, refill as necessary. start working motor and it should release. Have about an 80% sucess rate with this. If you are wanting to try to save the motor.
1959 440icd w/831 loader

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Tigerhaze
350 crawler
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Posts: 2278
Joined: Thu Jul 06, 2006 12:13 pm
Location: West-Central MO

Post by Tigerhaze » Tue Nov 11, 2008 11:43 pm

I am going to break engine loose at some point...I have some experience in that but need to get it first!
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment

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