IT, is alive!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Lavoy]

Well, in spite of my best efforts to the contrary, my new orphan runs. The metering valve was broken, and the plungers were stuck. Got the pump back today, and started the crawler a little while ago. It runs good, but misses slightly on #1 at zero load. Hit the throttle, and it smoothes right out. I assume that the #1 injector is bad, John, anybody?
The lesson learned for the day is if the retard trying to start the engine forgets to turn the fuel shutoff back on, they don't start worth a darn!
Lavoy

[jdemaris]

Well, in spite of my best efforts to the contrary, my new orphan runs. The metering valve was broken, and the plungers were stuck. Got the pump back today, and started the crawler a little while ago. It runs good, but misses slightly on #1 at zero load. Hit the throttle, and it smoothes right out. I assume that the #1 injector is bad, John, anybody?
The lesson learned for the day is if the retard trying to start the engine forgets to turn the fuel shutoff back on, they don't start worth a darn!
Lavoy

You might want to try the simplest remedy first. Just bump up the initial timing a few degrees by loosening and rotating the pump. Sometimes that's all it takes to smooth out a no-load skip.

Otherwise - there are many possibilities -but yeah, the injector ought to be checked. Some of the 1010 nozzle tips can be taken apart, cleaned, relapped, and made to work with no parts needed. Note, I said "some."

It is also possible to get a low speed skip from a scratch inside the pump's head & rotor assembly. If so, there is no fix other than replacement. I assume since someone just had it apart, it would of been noticed.

[Lavoy]

John,
Head and rotor were good, so no problem there.
I took the #1 injector to the local diesel shop, kind of got sick of listening to his whining about how they can't be fixed, and yada, yada. All I asked him to do is test it and tell me if it is bad. Just reinforces further why I do virtually no business with them.
I kind of wondered about the timing. Sevice manual says that the timing marks on the pump should line up at TDC, but this one did not. I installed the pump in the same position as it was, but I am going to retime it shortly. When at TDC, and the marks lined up in the pump, is that zero degrees advance for lack of a better term? I would think you would want a few degrees advance.
Lavoy

[jdemaris]

When at TDC, and the marks lined up in the pump, is that zero degrees advance for lack of a better term? I would think you would want a few degrees advance.
Lavoy

It doesn't work that way. Without a book full of specs, you have no idea what those marks mean. The plate that has the mark on it (the half that rotates) is hand-installed and differs by pump number.

For example, 1010 diesels have two different pumps.

Pump # 1 is DBGVC429-1DH (Deere # AT16517).
The timing mark is put onto the part, while laid on a degree wheel - at 48.5 pump degrees.

Pump # 2 is DBGVC429-1J (Deere # AT12457).
The timing mark is put onto the part, while laid on a deree wheel - at 50.5 pump degrees.

Pump # 3 is DBGVC429-3AJ (Deere # AT14849)
The timing mark is put onto the part, while laid on a deree wheel - at 47.5 pump degrees.

So, right there, there's two-degree timing difference between the three 1010 pumps when the lines are lined up - and two pump-degrees = four engine degrees. So, just from one model pump to the other, there's a four degree difference in initial timing with those damn lines, lined up.
Remember a pump only runs at half engine speed, so 1 pump degree = 2 engine degrees, and 1000 pump RPM = 2000 engine RPM.

That's why I was suggesting you just move the pump a bit and try it. It can get confusing - mainly because it is.
Those three pumps have other differences to make things more confusing.

Pump # 1 , DBGVC429-1DH (Deere # AT16517), has an automatic timing advance that works like this. 1 pump degree at 350 pump RPM. 6 pump degrees at 1000 pump RPM, and 8 pump degree total advance (which is 16 engine degrees).

Pump # 2 , DBGVC429-1J (Deere # AT12457) has less advance movement. It moves 2 pump degrees by 350 pump RPM, and a total advance movement of only 4 pump degrees.

Pump # 3, DBGVC429-3AJ (Deere # AT14849). 1 pump degree at 375 pump RPM, 5 pump degrees at 1000 pump RPM, and 7 pump degrees total by 1325 pump RPM.

So, from one pump to the other, there are major differences in initial timing as well as total advance. Also a difference in fuel delivery.
One pumps more fuel and less timing advance, and the other the converse.

The early 1J pump has load-advance only. The later 1DH and 3AJ pumps have speed-advance.

I hate to say it, but for these reasons you're better off timing the thing by ear. Deere was never sure what worked best, the 1010 was a work in progress - that ceased production before it was all figured out.

I have a British International Harvester B275 diesel tractor, the same year as my 1960 1010 - and the Brits make tuning much easier. My repair manual states - for more power - advance the timing until the engine gets noisy if more power is desired. If less noise is desired, retard timing, but less power and poorer cold starting will result.

[Eric.MacLeod]

john i dont mean to toot your horn but jeezem crow you are a wealth of imformation!!!

[Lavoy]

Okay, still beating the horse, not dead yet, but I just may kill him.
Seems like no matter where I have the timing, it has a slight slobber at steady state, no load condition. Hit the throttle, and it smoothes right out and smokes black until it reaches the new throttle setting. I almost want to say that it runs the best when it is retarded, kind of like it's owner. Just so I am not thinking of it backwards, it is a CCW rotation correct? With #1 on TDC, and the timing mark lined up on the pump, I turned it a couple extra degrees CW and locked it down. Did I goof something up, somebody educate the idiot PLEASE?
Lavoy