Are you smarter than a 1010??????????????????

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
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Lavoy
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Are you smarter than a 1010??????????????????

Post by Lavoy » Tue Dec 30, 2008 9:00 pm

In my case, unfortunately the answer is a resounding HELL NO, not even a 3 cylinder 1010. So students, here are the lessons for the day.
Lesson One:
Do NOT remove the top half of the precombustion chamber without draining the anti-freeze, and or reading the service manual. If you do, you will see this lovely green liquid doing it's TidyBowl impression as it swirls down into the cylinder filling it up.
Lesson Two:
Do NOT crank said engine over to blow the aforementioned liquid out of the cylinder without putting a towel over the hole. Or, you will have a large sticky mess sprayed all over the crawler, the floor, the idiot standing by the crawler, the bench next to the crawler, the wall above the bench, and all of the tools hanging on the wall and setting on the bench.
There will be a quiz later.
Class dismissed.
Lavoy

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Stretch
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Post by Stretch » Wed Dec 31, 2008 2:59 am

And I thought I was the only one that did that. :shock:
I thought you only refer to manual after something either goes terribly wrong or it happens to be the only reading material available in the bathroom. :lol:
I do get a lot of compliments though on the strange looking art work on the wall of the barn. :roll:
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If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer.

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Re: Are you smarter than a 1010??????????????????

Post by jdemaris » Wed Dec 31, 2008 9:52 am

Lavoy wrote:In my case, unfortunately the answer is a resounding HELL NO, not even a 3 cylinder 1010.
At the moment, I consider myself a little smarter than the average 1010. But . . . I lost out once to a Deere BO, which is even worse. How complicated can a low compression, two-cylinder gas engine be, right?

Long story short - I dragged a set-up 1936 BO out of a nearby field. Took it all part, got it unstuck. Did the usual things - honed the cylinders, re-rung, did a valve job, fixed the fuel system, shimmed up the bearings, etc. Got all done and it threw flames out the exhaust and ran awful unless you really lugged it down - and then it smoothed out.

At that time, I was working for an long-established Deere dealer with thousands of dollars worth of new, obsolete two-cylinder Deere inventory in storage. My boss let me rumage - and I found - brand new, in old stock - cylinder block, pistons, camshaft, cylinder head, manfold, and carburetor. My boss was going to scrap all the parts and, at first did not want anybody - especially collectors getting their hands on the parts. Finally, I convinced him to sell me the whole mess. I had to borrow $5000 to buy, and a few days later sold it all for $6000 and thought I'd made a killing. Four pickup truck loads of brand new parts. Wish I had them now.

Before I sold the whole mess, I took the aforementioned parts, and one by one, put them into my awful running BO. Guess what? Still ran awful. I got mad and sold it at auction - so I guess I'll never know what the problem was. The BO won, and I lost. Here's the one photo I kept when I bought it for $150 and had it loaded on my trailer - taken around 1979.

Image

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Pammark
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1930 GP

Post by Pammark » Wed Dec 31, 2008 2:07 pm

I have a similar tractor with the flathead two banger. I though it was a 1930 Genral Purpose. Oh well. I wish I had your rear fenders and hood. Ours has just the fuel tank and open wheels with steel front rims.

When we got it about 1974, it was frozen tight and buried to the axle from freeze and thaw in an old barn. The widow said "It ran last year", yeah, right. We pulled the head and unstuck the inurds and it ran OK. Years later I did a valve job on it and we unbolted the rear wheel lugs. We always tow it to start, sure beats flipping a flywheel. Even with the cylinder stopcocks open, it still draged the wheels when towing (too much compression). It runs great. I can idle it down so slow, you can count the flywheel turns. It still has a nice iron oxide finish and I have yet to put it in a parade. Maybe soon.

Speaking about Conquering the Beast, I worked on my 2010 diesel. I normally used ether all the time to start. My ignition switch was bad so I knew the glow plugs were not working. After reading the horror stories about blowing up 2010's with ether, I decided to bite the bullet and fix it. First was to replace the ingition switch, which I did. Then I took an inductive amp meter and checked the glow plug wire. It was drawing some amps, they must be working. I primed with fuel, ran the glow plugs and she started right up. First time in the two years I had her, and not using ether.

Lesson #3 - Sometimes things work like they are designed.

Mark
JD 2010 Crawler with Loader

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Re: Are you smarter than a 1010??????????????????

Post by gus » Wed Dec 31, 2008 2:24 pm

Do NOT crank said engine over to blow the aforementioned liquid out of the cylinder without putting a towel over the hole. Or, you will have a large sticky mess sprayed all over the crawler, the floor, the idiot standing by the crawler, the bench next to the crawler, the wall above the bench, and all of the tools hanging on the wall and setting on the bench.

Lavoy[/quote]

It worked though didn't it!! :shock: :shock: And, it's a lot easier than tipping the tractor on it's side and pouring it out. :lol: :lol:

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Post by Lavoy » Wed Dec 31, 2008 3:04 pm

Mark,
If your tractor has aflat head, it is a GP.
Lavoy

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Post by mini kahuna » Wed Dec 31, 2008 7:34 pm

don't feel bad,I had a kohler 8 hp that wouldn't run right,coil,points,condensers,carb apart 20 times,thing had no power what so ever...this went on for over a year.
one day I got so mad at it I smashed it with a sledge hammer,knocked a big hole in the crankcase,later,after I figured I had won,I looked inside the crankcase to see the camshaft gear a tooth out of time...no wonder it ran like crap,I destroyed a good cast iron kohler for nothing,it won. :roll:

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Post by Lavoy » Wed Dec 31, 2008 11:07 pm

Yeah, but you sure showed it who's boss! :lol:

At the rate I am going, the same thing is going to happen to this 1010 if it doesn't kill me first.
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Post by GraderDan » Thu Jan 01, 2009 7:46 am

I had a 1973 Polaris TX snowmachine that would run great then all of a sudden would die, I cleaned the carbs several times, replaced the sparkplugs, wires, kill switch, coil, key switch and still the damn thing would shut down when it felt like it. Then one night while tearing it apart again I moved the muffler just right and heard a clunck in it and I then knew what was happening, a baffle had broken and was plugging off the exhaust when it moved just right. Just wished something so simple hadden taken so much time to find, live and learn I guess.

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Post by hunter41mag » Thu Jan 01, 2009 11:57 am

Back in the mid 70's my dad went to get our John Deere B out of the shed and found the float had stuck open in the carb and filled the cylinder's with gas. So he pulled the spark plugs and then cranked the engine over with the starter to blow the gas out. Problem was he forgot to disable the magneto and the end of the spark plug wires were at the right spot to spark as the gas came shooting out (made a great flame thrower!!!!!). Good thing he was not standing in front of the spark plug openings and that it had a ground floor in the shed. In order to put out the fire to save the tractor and shed he used his shirt and loose ground from the floor. It always is a good ideal to go and rethink what you are about to do before actually doing it!!!! It sure can save some embarrassment or possible injury when we are working around any mechanical equipment.
Don
Eastern PA
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Stretch
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Post by Stretch » Thu Jan 01, 2009 3:26 pm

Definition Of Man
Act before thinking!!!
That's what my wife says. :roll:
I say " If you are going to be stupid, you better be tough"
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Post by gus » Fri Jan 02, 2009 2:19 pm

Lavoy, better get that puppy running....it's baaaack :? :?

Last night I went to bed around midnight and it was raining, freezing rain that is. This morning the table on the deck had about 8-9" of fresh on it and it hasn't quit snowing as of now. Probably nearing a foot. it's headed your way :twisted: :twisted:
Gus

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Post by Lavoy » Fri Jan 02, 2009 4:30 pm

Gus,
We got another few inches the other day, had some predicted two days ago, but no show. There are rumors of another 6-8" tonight and tomorrow, must be the one that you just got. Was working on the neighbors 3020, so used that to clean up the yard and pile some snow. Man is a cab and heat nice, but still like a crawler.
I am guessing I won't have injectors until middle of next week, so spent the last two days pulling the RH final and taking out all the busted bolts, tapping holes, and installing threaded inserts. Got the final back on last night, dropped the gas tank off to get steamed today to get the crud out. Other than that, I think it is ready to go, or start on fire, whichever the case may be.
Lavoy

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wwattson
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Post by wwattson » Fri Jan 02, 2009 10:01 pm

Lavoy, if you don't mind me asking, what do you use in the way of threaded inserts? I really like the Timesert inserts that I've used to repair the Ford Triton engine spark plug blowouts (3 down, 7 to go) but I've not tried their steel repair inserts.

Bill
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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Sat Jan 03, 2009 12:16 am

Bill,
Not sure of the brand, but pretty much the same concept as Timeserts. Years ago, had some called Keenserts, don't see them any more. I have never been that impressed with Heli-coil, and always ticked me off have to get their special size tap and such.
Lavoy

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