2010 tranny dissambly HLR

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
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dlplost
420 crawler
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Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2007 8:37 pm
Location: Painted Post, NY

2010 tranny dissambly HLR

Post by dlplost » Tue Mar 30, 2010 10:06 am

HI ALL.
Our 2010 Diesel has tranny problems.
The HLR is good and works fine, problem is the range change won't shift. We have removed the tranny cover and all the linkage appears to be working and in good shape.
We can shift thru all the gears IF we use a hammer and drift to tap on the sliding gears to help them move, it doesn't take much , you just have to help them along.
We think it was run with the linkage slightly out of adjustment and the edges of the teeth are chewed up. But because its the inside of the slider gears, you cant get to them to clean them up. The only way we see to fix it is to pull it apart clean up the teeth with a stone and put it all back together.

Any other suggestions out there?

What all would be involved in this project?
As I see it we have to pull the engine/clutch, pull the HLR clutch assembly out, just to get the range gears out...

Any "special" tools required to pull it apart and put it back together?

If I don't need to actually replace any parts what would you guess as to approximate cost? (gaskets etc..)
We have all the factory Manuals for the machine, and a nice heated garage to work in.

Thanks for any input on this..
1963 John Deere 2010C, Diesel, 6 way PAT Dozer
1950? John Deere MC
1952 Ford 8N
1950 Ford 8N with Sherman over/under drive and homemade Backhoe & Loader
Did have a 1956 IH TD-9 Drott Skid-Shovel, "Smokey"

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RedDirt
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Location: California Sierra Nevada Mtns

Post by RedDirt » Tue Mar 30, 2010 6:29 pm

I'm a new owner/operator so take that for what it's worth. I have the same machine, 2010 Diesel HLR. Mine can be a hard shift too. Here is what I've worked out that seems to ease the gears in, maybe it will work.

Make sure the HLR is locked in neutral.
Push in the clutch and try to move the gear lever.
If it won't go let the clutch out slowly and work the clutch in and out while keeping pressure on the shifter to get the gears rotating a bit at various speeds. Usually this will work for me.

Maybe you already tried that, if so sorry for the post.
RedDirt - 2010 Diesel Crawler Loader Drott 4in1

raceyalater
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Location: S.E.Indiana

2010 diesel no start

Post by raceyalater » Mon Apr 12, 2010 8:56 am

Hello, I bought this 2010, looks like fair condition, but has sat for years inside a barn without being started. I replaced the glow plugs,pulled the injectors(to check for rust or being stuck-ok) cleaned the tank,it was almost full of fuel,so pretty clean. I am getting squirts of fuel at the injectors, it will fire on starting fluid then dies with a little white smoke. If i let it sit 5 min. put power to the glow plugs and turn it over, it will fire with out starting fluid at times? Any ideas?
Thanks

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RedDirt
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Joined: Wed Jan 21, 2009 6:10 pm
Location: California Sierra Nevada Mtns

Post by RedDirt » Mon Apr 12, 2010 9:36 am

Mine can be hard starting too. Here are some things that helped me.

1. Make sure all 4 glow plugs are working fully. If you have a clamp ammeter that is the easiest way, should be about 7 - 9 amps per plug as I recall. Even though you replaced them there could be wiring or connectors that are limiting the current flow.

2. Go easy on the starting fluid, I hear it can blow these indirect motors. If I have to use it I barely wave a small mist over the intake. I'v taken the air cleaner off and used WD-40 sprayed in the intake to start and that has worked safer than starting fluid.

3. Make sure the clutch disconnect under your left foot is pulled up and latched in the up position when starting, this keeps the starter from having to turn over the transmission gears and speeds up the engine cranking.

4. After you get the engine to catch at all, immediately swing the switch back to the left and keep heating the glow plugs while it is chugging to a start. I'll do this for the first minute or so and it seems to get things rolling faster and smoother.

5. Check your hand operated primer pump to be working and use it per the instructions a few strokes before starting and then as it catches you can add a pump or two which will help get it to catch. You can over do this which is bad for both starting and washing the cylinder walls with diesel.

6. Cranking speed really matters, mine will crank a bit faster when on the battery charger so often put it on the charger or a jump to my truck if I'm having any problems. I hear that the injector pump on this model has a low RPM problem and it really needs every bit of cranking RPM it can get to get the fuel flowing.

7. The throttle setting is very particular on mine. I have to set mine at about 25% - 30% to have any chance of starting. If I go above 30% it will almost never start. I can add throttle as it starts to fire but pushing it up too fast too far will kill it.

8. If you haven't done so check and set the valve lash clearance. If valves are not seating or opening correctly it can mess with starting. I haven't seen this problem on mine but have on other diesels.

I get white smoke too on starting. I don't fully understand the white smoke vs. black smoke. Both seem to indicate problems. I get a blast of black when I push a stroke of primer pump diesel in. White smoke for me seems to indicate that it isn't getting enough fuel. Mine is getting better with more frequent starting and running so hang in there.
RedDirt - 2010 Diesel Crawler Loader Drott 4in1

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