2010 Steering Clutch

[Stretch]

3 years ago I rebuilt my 2010 dozer. I have 116 hrs on it since a complete refurbish. I mean new everything and engine overhaul.
At 115 hrs I adjusted the steering clutchs and brakes. The left side seemed like it was way out of adjustment.
I was out cleaning up around the edges of my fields so I could get the combine closer to the edge when the ole girl stop driving on the left side.

It took awhile but I was able to get her in the shop.
I got the left side tore down and found ALL the friction discs were broke. The steel discs looked new and the friction discs looked new with the exception of being broke.
I can't say that the breaks were all in the same place for certain but I think they were.
Does anyone have any idea why all the friction discs would break like that?
By the way, the OTC ball joint puller works great pushing the master pin out of the tracks.
Lavoy, can I just get friction discs and not the steel plates?
Let me know how much?
Thanks in advance, Stretch
By the way, I was able to keep my iron through the divorce. Nice to know lawyers are stupid.

[Lavoy]

Stretch,
That is odd, but I have heard of it. Yes, fibers are available seperately, just let me know.
Lavoy

[CELSESSER]

Stretch,
Glad to hear that you made it through the Big D iron intact.
Were just ther teeth broken off or did they break into pieces? Makes you wonder what the other side looks like. Have you had any big shock loads?
I'v seen ball joint tools do some impressive things.

Chuck

[Stretch]

The teeth were partially sheared off and every friction disc was broken in one spot.
While I was removing the clutch pack from the brake drum I had one of the discs just fall apart into several pieces.
There are no signs of over heating and I don't recall ever putting the machine under a hard shock.
I'm wondering if the pressure plate is not adjusted correctly. I never checked it because it was new.

[Lavoy]

What color are the discs?
Lavoy

[RedDirt]

Was there any oil in the clutch pack? That appears to be what did mine in. The design of this clutch system using fibers with splines seems weak. I could see riveted lining material with steel splines, but this appears weak.

[Stretch]

No there was no oil, she was dry as a bone.
I agree with you on the design, but if my memory serves me right, Link Belt uses the same design on the hoist brake with one small difference. That is they put a steel plate against the drum then start alternating. Just like what it calls for on pre 42000 units.
Makes you wonder.

[Lavoy]

We talked on the phone the other day, the problem is the discs themselves. I had posted in the past about the grey or black american made discs being junk, and that is what he has. What happened to his discs will happen to all of them eventually, they are junk. I have had them fall apart in the box during shipping.
Lavoy

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

Ouch!

Later!

Stan

[Tigerhaze]

I had posted in the past about the grey or black american made discs being junk, and that is what he has.

I never saw that post and couldn't find it in my search on here- is there a certain brand name or supplier to avoid getting these types? What does Deere supply?

[Tigerhaze]

By the way, the OTC ball joint puller works great pushing the master pin out of the tracks.

Is this the "C-clamp" type ball joint tool like the one below?

http://www.mile-x.com/otc-7249-ball-joint-tool-set.aspx

If so, I was wondering how you deal with the rectangular head on the master pin.

[Stretch]

Tiger,
That is the same OTC tool that I have. The master pin I have didn't have a rectangular head.
I don't know why it wouldn't work though on that style pin.

[Tigerhaze]

Hi Stretch-

The older style master pins for the 2010 have a rectangular head. I am assuming you pressed out by pushing the pin from one side through the hole on the tool on the other side. I would assume that the head would not fit through the hole.

I got a little excited because I already have the same tool for my automotive work, and I will need to remove my master pin very shortly. You guys will get to see why in an upcoming post

[Paul Buhler]

OT: I like the 4x4 with a hole in it clamped-over-the-pin method of removing the master pin. This allows me to insert a drift and wail (whale?)(whack?) away with a long handled sledge hammer until it moves and then the drift becomes the smaller diameter replacement pin that I wiggle out to break the track. I often work alone and this has served me well so far. To get the pin moving, I sometimes work over the sprocket (I think it gives the link more support), then move the pin to the front idler for final removal. Paul

[Stretch]

Got new friction discs from Lavoy. Installed them and got the ole girl almost back together when I realized I forgot to put a cotter key in.
Had to take back down to put in.
Anyway got her almost together again when I had an epiphany.
I was enjoying a cold beer (hi 80's today) and looking at the tracks when I realized the left side idler was way to far forward compared to the right side. Being there are new rails, idlers, support idlers, and rollers on both sides I got to looking and found one of the spring end supports was broken.
JD says they are no longer available, at least I might have a good one on the crawler I am parting out.