Broken bolts in rear crossbar mounts

fruitcakesa · Post by **fruitcakesa** » Mon Jan 03, 2011 7:01 pm

I am in deep doodoo. 4 of the 8 bolts {2 on each side} that hold the rear crossbar clamp to the final drive are broken.
I am in the process of removing the threaded mounting blocks that are bolted to the final drive housings in which the broken bolts reside so I can have them drilled out
In order to get enough clearance to remove them it looks like the rear crossbar has to be removed too.
If I loosen the clamps that secure the crossbar to the track assembly will I be able to slide the crossbar out and away from the mounting block?
I hope I have explained this well enough so you guys know where and what I am describing.
This in on a 1010C.

pop pop · Post by **pop pop** » Tue Jan 04, 2011 1:09 am

hmmm, wouldnt the drawbar attaching point be in the way? and ,wouldnt you have to remove track frames, whats to hold up the crawler? blocks will be needed,, but then after all that it should come out.
hope that answers your question.

fruitcakesa · Post by **fruitcakesa** » Tue Jan 04, 2011 6:15 am

From the looks of the rear crossbar, the drawbar attachment point is in the center of the crossbar; if I can slide the crossbar so the end clears the inner side of the final drive I could remove the block and then slide it the other way and remove the other side block.
My question is will the crossbar move in and out once the clamping bolts are loosened or am I missing something in regards to how it is attached?
Thanks
Andrew

markvdh · Post by **markvdh** » Tue Jan 04, 2011 5:18 pm

Andrew,

In theory, what you have suggested should work. In practicality, it probably won't. (On a 440, you can't slide the crossbar that far side to side. It has a shoulder on it just inside of the inner clamp.) The 1010C shouldn't have that shoulder, so it should be able to move side to side. You would certainly have to support the rear of the crawler, then support the rear of the track assemblies so that there isn't any pressure on the crossbar.

Where I think you'll run into trouble though, is that the crossbar will be rusted into the track frame mounts, and you'll not be able to even slide it. If so, then you have to either drop the whole track frames/crossbar assembly out from under it, or remove the final drive housings and go out the back way.

Sorry,
Mark V

fruitcakesa · Post by **fruitcakesa** » Tue Jan 04, 2011 5:27 pm

I have not been back out to the dozer as my pickup is having a starting issue so I am trying to sort that out.
I'l

Gil · Post by **Gil** » Wed Jan 05, 2011 5:29 am

If your main problem is that you do not have space to position a drill to drill out the broken bolts, you may have a different, and a better solution. Typically the best way to remove a bolt where just the head has sheared off, is to position a nut over the broken bolt and weld it on through the center of the nut. I am not familiar with the clearance you may have to do this on the JD1010. Gil

fruitcakesa · Post by **fruitcakesa** » Wed Jan 05, 2011 6:10 am

Gil wrote:If your main problem is that you do not have space to position a drill to drill out the broken bolts, you may have a different, and a better solution. Typically the best way to remove a bolt where just the head has sheared off, is to position a nut over the broken bolt and weld it on through the center of the nut. I am not familiar with the clearance you may have to do this on the JD1010. Gil

Exactly why I am trying to remove the mounting blocks so I can drill it on a bench. All the bolts are broken off down in the mounting holes so welding is out

fruitcakesa · Post by **fruitcakesa** » Thu Jan 13, 2011 6:28 am

I got one mount out! I slacked off track tension, raised the blade mount up, put a small bottle jack under the mount and jacked it up and out.
Had to drill out and helicoil two holes but it is good as new.
I need to reinstall it before removing the other side which also has 2 broken bolts.

robk · Post by **robk** » Wed Mar 02, 2011 7:18 pm

(UPDATE: I see now I'm talking below about the front crossbar mounting block. It's possible to get to it over the trackframe. Anyhow, it's a trick that's worked for me.) If I understand what you guys are talking about, I removed the caps on my 1010 crossbar, ground a chamfer to get down close to the remains of the broken bolt and then made up some special nuts which I held in the chamfered holes with a pair of visegrips. Holding the nut in the hole, I stuck a welding down the hole and welded the nut to the remains of the bolt. There is something about electric welding that instantly loosens stuck threads. I took them out with my fingers... (yes, after it cooled). This works on manifold bolts too.

fruitcakesa · Post by **fruitcakesa** » Tue Jul 26, 2011 7:29 pm

Update:
Both blocks are back in place and the machine is back up and running.
I still need to use it a bit and then re-tighten all the bolts. Belly pan is still off so I can get a wrench on everything

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