12 volt conversion on 420c

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snickers
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12 volt conversion on 420c

Post by snickers » Mon Mar 14, 2011 1:10 pm

need some advice, i am currently rebuilding my 420c and want to do a 12 volt conversion on it but need some advice on how to do it. first is should it be set up as a positive ground? or conventional negative ground? i also am not sure if i need to change the points and condenser in the distributor? will the original amp gauge work on a 12 volt system? when i bought the crawler it had a 12 volt starter in it but no charging system hooked up. the only wiring that was in the tractor was a hot wire going to the coil and a button switch to the solenoid so i am going to rewire everything.

Any help is appreciated!!!
1957 420c

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Tigerhaze
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Post by Tigerhaze » Mon Mar 14, 2011 1:38 pm

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JD440ICD2006
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Post by JD440ICD2006 » Mon Mar 14, 2011 2:21 pm

Negative or postive polarity on these is a matter of choice. The only thing that needs to be done is to polarize the generator BEFORE turning the switch. This is true on either 6 or 12 volt anytime you disconnect the battery or generator.
Use a 12 volt regulator matched to the polarity that you choose. You can rebuild the generator to produce 12 volts and it will look like the original ginny.
The wiring diagram is in the parts book.
1959 JD 440ICD w/64 Power Angle Tilt Blade
1959 JD 440ICD w/63 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 440IC w/602 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 730D W SE (many options)
1950 JD M S w/M-20 Mower
1952 JD M W
1955 FORD 640 (burns the most fuel)

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akjayjay
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Post by akjayjay » Mon Mar 14, 2011 2:36 pm

I just converted mine to 12volt. I like using a one wire alternator then all u have to do is run a wire from alt to bat its real easy. I used two pieces of angle iron on the bottom of the alt about 3 inches long and the original top tension-er. you will have to change the coil and lights but other than that nothing else. the amp meter will work to. It cost me under a 100$ for everything not including a 12 volt battery. Jason

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Mon Mar 14, 2011 3:23 pm

12 volts will increase starter drive and ring gear wear, and can result in broken nose cones on starters, be cautious on how you operate the system on 12 volts.
Lavoy

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Stan Disbrow
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Post by Stan Disbrow » Mon Mar 14, 2011 4:45 pm

Hi,

Yeah, 12v on a 6v starter will really put a lot of strain on it. Might want to have the starter rewound for 12v....

Later!

Stan
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snickers
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Post by snickers » Mon Mar 14, 2011 5:58 pm

Thanks Guys!!! Great information!! can someone tell me if there is a difference in the capacitor in the distributor? can i just use an old style gm type? i have herd that the old gm points work in these distributors so i just assumed the capacitor was the same.
1957 420c

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akjayjay
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Post by akjayjay » Mon Mar 14, 2011 6:38 pm

Yea your good with the original points and capacitor just the coil needs to be changed on the ignition circuit.jay

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Mon Mar 14, 2011 7:17 pm

Make sure to use an internally resisted coil, or you will eat a lot of points.
Lavoy

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Willyr
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Post by Willyr » Mon Mar 14, 2011 9:54 pm

dont forget.... the 12 volt alternator requires NEGATIVE ground. You will need to change your lights too including the one in your dash for 12v.
former owner of a 1956 420c
All help is greatly appreciated.

Proud owner of a project 1952 JD 60

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFehqXVd9z4

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mapaduke@yahoo.com
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Post by mapaduke@yahoo.com » Tue Mar 15, 2011 6:50 am

I'm working on a late 440 witch someone changed over to 12v.The starter has a stud whair the switch would have been mounted and with a wire going to a starter solenoid off of it.would it have been converted to 12v?
Also what GM cars used the 12v points that fit thies distributors?
Thanks Ron. :?
nothing crawles like a deere

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Willyr
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Post by Willyr » Tue Mar 15, 2011 7:47 am

most anything of pre 1972 used points, I am guessing to try a c-10 pickup with a 262 motor.

The button often gets butchered to a stud to afford the solenoid. Resoning easier to push a button than it is to pull a knob. The original starter switch does burn out and what I gather is people feel it is easier to use a new style of solenoid, so they butcher it to a stud. You can get a stud replacement, but not go back to the button :( . Mind you a 6 volt solenoid can be used on 12 volt. But a 12 volt solenoid wont work at all on 6 volt.
former owner of a 1956 420c
All help is greatly appreciated.

Proud owner of a project 1952 JD 60

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFehqXVd9z4

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mapaduke@yahoo.com
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Post by mapaduke@yahoo.com » Tue Mar 15, 2011 8:54 am

I understand that Deer had a key switch for the 420 and up as an option.I wonder if it was just ignition or ignition,starter combo and how they did it.If it worked the starter then Amby the stud was for There solenoid set up.Just a thought.Ron. :)
nothing crawles like a deere

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JD440ICD2006
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Post by JD440ICD2006 » Tue Mar 15, 2011 9:04 am

I believe that the switch offered then was simply an ignition interrupt. My 440IC has that switch and it just turns the power on and off, still have to pull the knob going to the starter to get it started.
It is a keyed switch that keeps the honest people honest, but is easy to over ride if you want to start it.
1959 JD 440ICD w/64 Power Angle Tilt Blade
1959 JD 440ICD w/63 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 440IC w/602 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 730D W SE (many options)
1950 JD M S w/M-20 Mower
1952 JD M W
1955 FORD 640 (burns the most fuel)

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Willyr
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Location: Downeast Maine (North of Ellsworth)

Post by Willyr » Tue Mar 15, 2011 10:14 am

When I had to rebuild the instrument panel on my tractor. The wire that comes out of the fuse now goes through the switch. This includes the power for the starter button.

So now when I go to a fair I can with peace of mind turn off the key and remove it from the ignition. So that if some ones junior decides he wants to sit in my tractor, he cant accidentally bump it while in gear.
former owner of a 1956 420c
All help is greatly appreciated.

Proud owner of a project 1952 JD 60

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFehqXVd9z4

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