420C clutch linkage

[Bobcaterdon]

From: Bobcaterdon
To: Bobcaterdon
Posted: 10 03 3111Wed, 23 Mar 2011 11:57:59 +0000 2011
Subject: 420C
Hi All

Have just been given a 420C 1956 S/N 80779 have been busy loosing & tightening all sorts of thing ...such as brakes, steering leaver shafts, carberator and today I tried to move clutch pedal back to the clutch out stop and now the clutch pedal won't go down and clutch won't disengage.
I guess my question is how do I go about getting to check the linkage from clutch shaft to throughout bearing. Please be gentle !!!

Don

_________________
Bobcaterdon with JD420C 1956 S/N80779 &&&
MF 711 skid steer

[Willyr]

I believe you are looking at having to pull the engine.

[Tigerhaze]

Have just been given a 420C 1956 S/N 80779 have been busy loosing & tightening all sorts of thing ...such as brakes, steering leaver shafts, carberator and today I tried to move clutch pedal back to the clutch out stop and now the clutch pedal won't go down and clutch won't disengage.

I'm not a 420 expert, but I'm guessing that the common shaft for the clutch and brake has seized. You may be able to free without pulling the engine- Here are some threads to help you:

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... mmon+shaft

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... mmon+shaft

If yoiu want to physically inspect the common shaft and throwout bearing, then I think Willyr is right in that you would need to seperate transmission from engine.

if I am way off base, feel free to correct me

[57pilot]

The clutch-brake pedal shafts were frozen on my 420 when I got it. I was able to free them up by attaching hand levers made of 2 foot long pipes to the clutch and brake pedal. That gives you a lot of leverage to work them against each other. Used lots of Kroil giving it time to work between working sessions and a little judicious tapping with a hammer while putting opposing hand pressure on the levers. Once you get even the tiniest bit of relative movement between the clutch and brake you'll eventually be able to free them up completely by alternately using the penetrating oil and letting it sit for a day or more before using the levers to work the pedals. I would generally do about 50 fore and aft cycles in a session, apply oil and come back in a day or two for another session.

[Ray III]

The clutch-brake pedal shafts were frozen on my 420 when I got it. I was able to free them up by attaching hand levers made of 2 foot long pipes to the clutch and brake pedal. That gives you a lot of leverage to work them against each other. Used lots of Kroil giving it time to work between working sessions and a little judicious tapping with a hammer while putting opposing hand pressure on the levers. Once you get even the tiniest bit of relative movement between the clutch and brake you'll eventually be able to free them up completely by alternately using the penetrating oil and letting it sit for a day or more before using the levers to work the pedals. I would generally do about 50 fore and aft cycles in a session, apply oil and come back in a day or two for another session.

Well, at least you don't need to buy any workout equipment.

[Swawpy]

heat, lube, hammers, and patience.

[Bobcaterdon]

From: Bobcaterdon
To: Posted: 10 03 3111Thu, 24 Mar 2011 11:56:47 +0000 2011
Subject: Clutch shaft
Hi thanks for all the suggestions & help.

Is there any way to lubricate the shaft and socket in the middle of the case???
I thought of drilling a hole so I could squirt penetrating oil the joint of the shafts????/but where to drill hole???

Don