Tracks and other parts that are high wear

63DH8 · Post by **63DH8** » Tue Jul 12, 2011 2:42 pm

Please accept my apologies for my lack of knowledge...

The tracked vehicles I worked on in the Army had gauges or templates that we used to check for track wear. How does one check for track and pin wear on a 420C? What other parts normally wear that should be checked when I look at a tractor to purchase? Wearplates? Track guides? Support rollers? How do I check these, and how do I tell if they're worn?

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Tue Jul 12, 2011 3:17 pm

Hi there-

This thread will help you with the track wear issue- while there are a number of issues to look for when determining wear, the issues you can measure and compare to published numberts are the rail height and pin/bushing wear:

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... php?t=1214

The thread also contains a link to additional wear items to inspect as well as an IH manual on undercarriage basics (although it sounds like you are well beyond the basics).

FYI, I find tracked military vehicles interesting because my grandpa drove a tank during WWII with the 3rd Armored Div. on D-Day and the Battle of the Bulge and my dad rode on a APC in VietNam. Since you mentioned tracked military vehicles, you may find this recent thread about tank recovery interesting:

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... light=tank

Post by **Lavoy** » Tue Jul 12, 2011 4:30 pm

Probably the all time, overall worst way to gauge undercarriage wear is by listening to anything the seller says, or at the least, divide whatever percentage they give by two until you verify it for yourself.
Measuring pitch it a good one, the post referenced above will tell you what it is. Don't be fooled by feeling the outside of the bushings and thinking they are still pretty round, that is not an indicator of internal wear, only external.
The part of the rail that the pin goes through is the pin boss. If there is a lot of wear on them, then the rollers are bad, and the rails are likely getting thin.
Check the flanges on the bottom rollers, may need to lift the front of the crawler off the ground with blade. Check the bottom rollers for wobble and broken flanges. Look for grease blown all over them, that means the seals are shot.
Lots more to look at, but this is a good start.
Lavoy

63DH8 · Post by **63DH8** » Mon Jul 18, 2011 10:25 pm

Tigerhaze wrote:Hi there-

This thread will help you with the track wear issue- while there are a number of issues to look for when determining wear, the issues you can measure and compare to published numberts are the rail height and pin/bushing wear:

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... php?t=1214

The thread also contains a link to additional wear items to inspect as well as an IH manual on undercarriage basics (although it sounds like you are well beyond the basics).

FYI, I find tracked military vehicles interesting because my grandpa drove a tank during WWII with the 3rd Armored Div. on D-Day and the Battle of the Bulge and my dad rode on a APC in VietNam. Since you mentioned tracked military vehicles, you may find this recent thread about tank recovery interesting:

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... light=tank

Thanks Tigerhaze! I know what it's like to slide a tracked vehicle on ice and on oiled dirt. There's nothing like the sensation of a 60 ton vehicle going sideways to create creases in your seat, your pants, underwear, and buttcheeks!

The link for the track came in handy when I went to pick up the tractor. It's measured at 50% worn. I figure there should be a way to rebuild the bushings/tracks. If I can reline a rifle barrel, I should be able to bore out and sleeve the bushings.

Post by **Lavoy** » Mon Jul 18, 2011 10:28 pm

Track pins and bushings are not rebuilt, they are replaced. Currently the only source for pins and bushings is Deere. I am working on alternatives, but nothing in the very near future.
Lavoy

63DH8 · Post by **63DH8** » Mon Jul 18, 2011 10:33 pm

Lavoy wrote:Probably the all time, overall worst way to gauge undercarriage wear is by listening to anything the seller says, or at the least, divide whatever percentage they give by two until you verify it for yourself.
Measuring pitch it a good one, the post referenced above will tell you what it is. Don't be fooled by feeling the outside of the bushings and thinking they are still pretty round, that is not an indicator of internal wear, only external.
The part of the rail that the pin goes through is the pin boss. If there is a lot of wear on them, then the rollers are bad, and the rails are likely getting thin.
Check the flanges on the bottom rollers, may need to lift the front of the crawler off the ground with blade. Check the bottom rollers for wobble and broken flanges. Look for grease blown all over them, that means the seals are shot.
Lots more to look at, but this is a good start.
Lavoy

Howdy Lavoy! Your thoughts on taking what the owner said, and reducing it by 50% is spot on! The track is 50% worn. Also, when you look at the attached picture, you will see the level of maintenance that the owner was capable. The good news is the previous owner's previous owner provided receipts to the engine rebuild.

http://i879.photobucket.com/albums/ab35 ... hoto19.jpg

http://i879.photobucket.com/albums/ab35 ... hoto20.jpg

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Tue Jul 19, 2011 8:46 am

63DH8 wrote:I figure there should be a way to rebuild the bushings/tracks. If I can reline a rifle barrel, I should be able to bore out and sleeve the bushings.

Hi- I'm sure you saw Lavoy's post about replacing pins/bushings. One thing you should be aware of is that replacing pins and bushings should be done with a track press for safety reasons, and even then it is a dangerous operation- people have lost body parts replacing P&Bs.

Post by **Lavoy** » Tue Jul 19, 2011 9:34 am

Wow, that is one of the extremely rare "light switch" crawlers.

If that is a 4 roller crawler, I have a set of rails and pads on hand.
Lavoy

Willyr · Post by **Willyr** » Tue Jul 19, 2011 11:54 am

what do you want to say that the light switch acts as a generator cutout?

63DH8 · Post by **63DH8** » Tue Jul 19, 2011 12:33 pm

Tigerhaze wrote:
63DH8 wrote:I figure there should be a way to rebuild the bushings/tracks. If I can reline a rifle barrel, I should be able to bore out and sleeve the bushings.
Hi- I'm sure you saw Lavoy's post about replacing pins/bushings. One thing you should be aware of is that replacing pins and bushings should be done with a track press for safety reasons, and even then it is a dangerous operation- people have lost body parts replacing P&Bs.

Thanks for the heads up Tigerhaze.

Yeah, I realize the hazards, but someone has to get the job done!

All kidding aside, After what I've seen in the Army from those who do not respect and use safety around tracked vehicles (or any piece of machinery), I refuse to just "jump right in" and get my hands dirty without first putting my brain in gear. I've seen track jump off the vehicle's sprocket and hit a crewman in the head he wasn't thinking about safety. That guy was lucky! He didn't lose any body parts, but he did end up in the hospital for a concussion. I've seen lost fingers and broken arms. Not track related, but once, while working on an engine on a howitzer, another mechanic walked up, grabbed the radiator fantower shrouds to pull himself up to talk to me, and lost the ends of all his fingers because the fans were running. No more trigger finger means he was out of the Army. Accident do happen, but the majority of them can be prevented by engaging the brain first.

Again, thanks for the heads up!

63DH8 · Post by **63DH8** » Tue Jul 19, 2011 12:38 pm

Lavoy wrote:Wow, that is one of the extremely rare "light switch" crawlers.
If that is a 4 roller crawler, I have a set of rails and pads on hand.
Lavoy

Yeah, it's one of those "household use" crawlers!

On one hand, I have to give the guy credit for "getting the job done", but he should have put the machine back to factory specs as soon as possible.

The old girl is a four roller. I think I posted the link to a roller level picture so the members here can see how much wear the tractor has. I'm thinking that I should remove the rock guard for a better look-see.

63DH8 · Post by **63DH8** » Tue Jul 19, 2011 12:41 pm

Willyr wrote:what do you want to say that the light switch acts as a generator cutout?

I'll find out shortly! I found a wiring schematic on-line. I should be able to get to the tractor either today or tomorrow, depending on the weather and what my daughters throw at me. I feel happier than a dog finding a gut pile to roll around in!

dr1zsk1 · Post by **dr1zsk1** » Thu Jul 21, 2011 1:08 pm

I just wish most of the people I run into in a day with a lack of knowledge would apoligize before they speak .... LOL

63DH8 · Post by **63DH8** » Fri Jul 22, 2011 2:20 am

Willyr wrote:what do you want to say that the light switch acts as a generator cutout?

Between the rain, I got to go through parts of the wiring harness. The houselight switch was wired between the coil and the distributor. The little girl starts!

Next question I have to ask is if the wires are color coded or numbered. I'd like to replace the wiring harness with either NOS or I'll make another one. If I make another one, I would like to have the correct color code or numbered as per original. I REALLY hate butcher jobs. I like things to look like factory original.

Post by **Lavoy** » Fri Jul 22, 2011 7:27 am

They are color coded. I have new complete wiring harnesses available.
Lvaoy

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Tracks and other parts that are high wear

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