40C steering clutch

Beardedskipper · Post by **Beardedskipper** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 7:18 pm

Hi Guys, I'm new to the site. Just got a 1953 40 Crawler with dozer blade and ripper on a 3 point hitch. Bought this from a neighbor who used it and knows something about it. Hasn't run in 7 years but drove into the shed. He says it started to spin under load and assumes the steering clutch is bad. I'm preparing to go up to Maine to get it running and make repairs. As the engine is free and as he ran it in this should be no problem. Working in Maine is like working in the field for me and a long way from home so I'd like to be prepared to fix the clutch in one shot if possible. I have a manual and understand the job. What I'd like to know is given the symptoms what might I expect to find. Would a new set of fibers likely be enough or is it common to have to replace the metal disks also. Do the pressure plate and driven plate usually get scored? I asked him about adjustment and he was aware of nesscity of it, also looked at it myself and appears to have correct lever play so say we can rule that out as cause. Would like to hear what you guys have encountered with these symtoms. Thanks Rob

Post by **Lavoy** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 9:47 pm

Steel discs can be reused if clean, rust free, and sound, pressure plate should be replaced, new clutches do no good if the pressure plate is weak.
Lavoy

JimAnderson · Post by **JimAnderson** » Sat Jul 30, 2011 12:21 am

Rob,
One thing that comes up is oil on the slipping clutch side.These machines have dry cluthes and oil leaking from the transmission or final drive side ruins the fiber disks.The bad part of working on a machine
so far from your home base is you have a very difficult task in gettinng
all you need to solve the problem in one trip.You can put in new clutch
parts and solve the problem short term but if there oil getting in there
you will have to replace the fibers again.Once oiled they are ruined.
If the machine stays in Maine and is used to push snow only
things should be fine. More than that heat in the clutches bring out the oil.
I have a 420c that my Dad had in Maine that was used to push snow
banks that his plow truck wouldn't handle.Worked fine for that but down south after five minutes you know why the dry clutches never seized up.
Luck JimAnderson

cdunn · Post by **cdunn** » Sat Jul 30, 2011 12:49 pm

I assume you mean to say "it started to slip when under load". To me, if it were spinning, the track would be turning and trying to dig in, which would not indicate the steering clutch was slipping. I know what happens when I "assume" anything so this is just my thought.

Beardedskipper · Post by **Beardedskipper** » Sat Jul 30, 2011 7:30 pm

Thanks guys for the great info. Sounds like I should do it right and replace the pressure plate as well as the 58 year old seal. Yes I believe he ment the machine was spinning because only one track was pulling. Thinking maybe I should disasemble and bring steering clutch home for rebuilding. Wondering how heavy is the removed assembly out to the sprocket flange. Working in the Maine woods is no pleasure.

JimAnderson · Post by **JimAnderson** » Sat Jul 30, 2011 10:10 pm

Hello,
There are two seals that can allow oil into the steering clutch area.
One is installed in the final drive case just behind the pinion gear.This
seal is fairly easy to replace once the housing is removed.The other
seal is installed in the bearing quill attached to transmission.This seal
is a real pain to remove.Easy to install but once you see it the first
thought ,at least my thought,is how in world do you get this out.
Definitely not something I want to do in the woods
The final drive is heavy but can be manhandled off.Wooden pry
bars can be used to remove and reinstall the final but I personally
would try to get this machine to a shop environment.These old girls
always crap out in places that make repairing them a challenge.
If it moves I would get it someplace other than the woods.JMHO.
Luck,JimAnderson

krusty · Post by **krusty** » Mon Aug 01, 2011 7:35 pm

When I brought my 40C home it was easily pushed up onto a small float trailer and would have been super simple with a come-a-long. Why not just haul it home to work on it?

I just went through both sides of mine, 1 brake band on 1 side and 1 set of fiber disks on the other. I am reasonably mechanical and would be several hours of work to get the track, final drive etc off and disks replaced with all things required.

Bring it home and work on it in the yard....hard to keep the beer cold in the woods

Beardedskipper · Post by **Beardedskipper** » Mon Aug 01, 2011 11:04 pm

Hey Guys thanks for the good words, Jim , I see the seals in the manual are they readily avalible,not listed in parts above. does the outer seal come out from the clutch side of the final drive or do you have to remove the quill. It looks like the best choice for leakage problems. Talked again to the owner and he does not remember which side is slipping so I'll have to get it running first and see for myself. Yea krusty the beer does get warm but it may be Sept before I can get up there and it is in a rough shed. Will keep you posted. Thanks again

JimAnderson · Post by **JimAnderson** » Tue Aug 02, 2011 9:53 am

Hello,
The upper seal on the final drive is removed from the steering
clutch side of the housing.You still have to remove the drive pinion
quill and remove the the splined shaft to get the seal out or in.
The seal is available from Deere and Lavoy may have them.There
may be other sources as well.It is just a standard lip seal and
nothing special.Luck,JimAnderson

Post by **Lavoy** » Tue Aug 02, 2011 10:17 am

While you have it apart, fix everything needing repairing.
Lavoy

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