I'm just heartbroken! My little 1010 is broken.
The left track suddenly stopped working. We thought it was the steering clutch/brake, so hubby replaced the pressure plate and brake band. All the other parts looked ok.
Put it all back together and while the machine was still up on blocks, both tracks rotated when put in gear, although the left side didn't at first. We had to play with the gears a bit, forward & reverse, and finally it started working.
But now that it's off the blocks it still won't steer. We now believe that the left track is 'dead'. The right track seems to be the only one with power, so the machine keeps pulling to the left.
Anyone able to tell us what to do next?
Need advice/help/diagnosis on 1010
You are probably going to have to pull the final drive back off and do a more thorough inspection. Brake band will have no effect on power to the track, so that is not it. You could split the track and trun the sprocket by hand. If the brake drum turns, it is something in the clutch or rear end. If it does not, it is in the final drive.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Thanks for the response Lavoy.
We did as you said and turned the sprocket by hand. The brake drum does turn, so that means it is the clutch or rear end.
Looking inside the pipe that drives the final drive, it looks like some of the splines are broken or damaged.
This seems to be the only damage we can see. Is this what you call the "bull gear"? Hubby calls it the shaft thats driven by the crown gear...
Do you have one available? If so, what would it cost?
We did as you said and turned the sprocket by hand. The brake drum does turn, so that means it is the clutch or rear end.
Looking inside the pipe that drives the final drive, it looks like some of the splines are broken or damaged.
This seems to be the only damage we can see. Is this what you call the "bull gear"? Hubby calls it the shaft thats driven by the crown gear...
Do you have one available? If so, what would it cost?
OK, after cleaning and reinspection, it appears that the ring gear splines are OK.
If pulling the transmission is necessary, do we have to remove the steering levers?
Can you give us further advice on what next step we should take, or what to test to diagnose exactly what is broken?
Any tips/tricks/hints we should be aware of concerning pulling the transmission?
Also, what do you mean by "bull gear"? There is no reference to a bull gear in the manual.
If pulling the transmission is necessary, do we have to remove the steering levers?
Can you give us further advice on what next step we should take, or what to test to diagnose exactly what is broken?
Any tips/tricks/hints we should be aware of concerning pulling the transmission?
Also, what do you mean by "bull gear"? There is no reference to a bull gear in the manual.
- Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2904
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Hi,
The Bull Gear is that large diameter one that the sprocket drive axle is attached to. It's the one you can easily inspect if you pull off the cover on the bottom of the final drive housing (where you'd drain the final drive gear lube from). This is the main reduction gear in the system, and there's one in each final drive.
I doubt that you have a bad bull gear from the description of the problem. They tend to lose a tooth or two, not all of them, when they break. That'd give you drive most of the time, with a loud 'clunk' every time the pinion gear went over the bad spot. In fact, I'd sooner think that the final drive pinion gear was bad, as it has far fewer teeth than the bull gear does.
Besides, if you can see the steering clutch housing / brake drum turn when you rotate the drive sprocket, the bull gear and associated pinion gear is not likely to be the source of the problem.
Note that the final drive pinion gears (one on each side) are different from the pinion gear that drives the ring gear in the back end of the transmission. I mention this since I see references to the ring gear and carrier in the thread, and it can easily be a source of confusion here.....
Stan
The Bull Gear is that large diameter one that the sprocket drive axle is attached to. It's the one you can easily inspect if you pull off the cover on the bottom of the final drive housing (where you'd drain the final drive gear lube from). This is the main reduction gear in the system, and there's one in each final drive.
I doubt that you have a bad bull gear from the description of the problem. They tend to lose a tooth or two, not all of them, when they break. That'd give you drive most of the time, with a loud 'clunk' every time the pinion gear went over the bad spot. In fact, I'd sooner think that the final drive pinion gear was bad, as it has far fewer teeth than the bull gear does.
Besides, if you can see the steering clutch housing / brake drum turn when you rotate the drive sprocket, the bull gear and associated pinion gear is not likely to be the source of the problem.
Note that the final drive pinion gears (one on each side) are different from the pinion gear that drives the ring gear in the back end of the transmission. I mention this since I see references to the ring gear and carrier in the thread, and it can easily be a source of confusion here.....
Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Thanks Stan! Hubby is new to this.......he knows automotive but is flying a bit blind on this job. We appreciate the help. The bull gear is definitely not damaged, and neither is the pinion gear. They were inspected when he was replacing the brake band and pressure plate.
We will keep investigating and hopefully will find the problem....
We will keep investigating and hopefully will find the problem....
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