2010 steering clutch rebuild

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
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jhv1050
40C crawler
40C crawler
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Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 3:17 pm
Location: Three Rivers, Michigan

2010 steering clutch rebuild

Post by jhv1050 » Mon Oct 10, 2011 2:27 pm

Have been working slowly on the steering clutches on my 2010 crawler. finally got the left clutcl out and apart, the clutch disc have some broken teeth on the ID. The steel plates are slightly discolored, I'm trying to determine if the steels need to be replaced. what should I look for as to the condition of the steel plates.
The brake band is junk, it was oil soaked. the old girl had about 3inches of oil in the bottom of the clutch housing. I found the bolts for the clutch housing to the trans case were loose. I thing the oil was coming around the bolts into the clutch housing from the trans.

Thanks for any input :P
A man can't have too many tractors!
2010 crawler/dozer
4010 diesel
1050 utility diesel
706 international
154, 184, cub lo-boy

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jtrichard
350 crawler
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Post by jtrichard » Mon Oct 10, 2011 3:39 pm

are the steels flat? thats the most imporant and no rust
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

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Tigerhaze
350 crawler
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Post by Tigerhaze » Mon Oct 10, 2011 9:45 pm

I think Richard stated the general consensus- flat steels can be resued if no warpage and no excessive rust or pitting- otherwise replace them.

Are you sure that the oil you are seeing didn't come from a worn seal on the final drive? Now's the time to replace while you have it out.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment

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jtrichard
350 crawler
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Post by jtrichard » Mon Oct 10, 2011 10:38 pm

i think all of the bolt holes are blind and can not let oil in i bet its one of the two seals do you think it hyd. oil or 90 wt if your finals have 90wt.... i would replace both seals as they are most likely near 50 years old
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

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Tigerhaze
350 crawler
350 crawler
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Joined: Thu Jul 06, 2006 12:13 pm
Location: West-Central MO

Post by Tigerhaze » Tue Oct 11, 2011 8:18 am

Since the bolts were loose, I would agree with Richard that it could also be the seal on the transmission side of the steering clutch housing. Like Richard said, it is probably best to change out both seals while you have apart or you may ruin another set of fiber discs and a brake band once you have it back together.

Many people also take the opportunity to replace the bearing on the final drive since it is easily accessible when off the machine.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment

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