Track noise on 1010

RanchTruck · Post by **RanchTruck** » Tue Jan 24, 2012 7:16 pm

I was doing some sidehill work with the 1010 loader and had one track in the ditch and the other on the embankment carving the embankment down. The track in the ditch was making some clunking noises and I could feel it shift with each clunk. What it sounded like was the drive sprocket having a hard time finding its holes in the track chain.

The track adjustment is right where it should be tension wise, and it doesn't look too worn. Is that kind of sprocket to chain binding normal on a sidehill, or do I have work to do?

caribcanuck · Post by **caribcanuck** » Tue Jan 24, 2012 7:42 pm

I was always told to avoid drivin any dozer sideways on a slope due to fact its extremely easy to walk the tracks off. Most bosses I worked for would fire operators on the spot if they caught them doing so. Sounds like what you heard what the sprocket hitting the rails before dropping in to the centre.We always tried to work slopes going straight up and down from top to bottom or at a slight angle . Most of our drainage ditches we use excavators with twist buckets.

Randy

Gil · Post by **Gil** » Wed Jan 25, 2012 11:04 am

It is not just your sprockets that are grinding into the rails, but also your idler wheel and bottom rollers. Your tracks are positioned on the ground but gravity is dragging your crawler down against the downhill side of your tracks. The upper track can slide down and adjust some, but your lower track is constrained by the ditch and the whole weight of the crawler is pressing against the lower side of the rails.

Eventually you will wear out the side flanges of your idler and rollers, damage the sprocket teeth, wear the sides of your rails and therefore make your whole undercarriage looser and more prone to coming off. In the meantime you will probably experience the joy of trying to remove a thrown track that is buried in a ditch under a crawler that is sliding down hill and that you cannot jack up.

Don't ask us how we all know this. Gil

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Wed Jan 25, 2012 12:37 pm

Gil wrote:In the meantime you will probably experience the joy of trying to remove a thrown track that is buried in a ditch under a crawler that is sliding down hill and that you cannot jack up.

Don't ask us how we all know this. Gil

I can certainly vouch for that- if you find some of my threads on this board you will see the photos of what happens when that occurs

RanchTruck · Post by **RanchTruck** » Wed Jan 25, 2012 2:12 pm

I've helped put the track back on an excavator once in a deep mud hole, so I'm familiar with the experience. I thought tracks were normally walked off in soup, not from uneven terrain.

So what I was experiencing is completely normal, it's just the crawler isn't designed to operate on a side slope? Seems like a shortcoming in the design.

I'm trying to carve in next to a barn where the blown dirt has accumulated to the point that roof drainage is going back into the barn rather than down into the ditch. The earth has built up about a foot and half above the sill, and the walls of the barn are bowing in from the weight. I was trying to cut lenghtwise down the side of the barn to peel off the dirt without stressing the structure. I'm afraid of pushing the side of the barn in if I try to do cuts coming from across the ditch.

Gil · Post by **Gil** » Wed Jan 25, 2012 3:21 pm

It looks like you may have just created an opportunity here. I think you have justified buying a Model 51 backhoe attachment for your machine. Explain to your wife that we said it was necessary. Gil

RanchTruck · Post by **RanchTruck** » Wed Jan 25, 2012 6:37 pm

I actually bought a case 530ck model 32 backhoe attachment for it, but was unable to tow it out here from NH because it was too much extra weight. I'm looking at a lighter duty case backhoe at a junkyard out here in WY. Needs some work, but it looks to be adaptable to the crawler with some cutting and welding.

The lighter duty hoe is probably better for the crawler anyway. The model 32 hoe attachment weighed around 3k lbs on it's own, which is a fair bit to hang off the back of a 1010. I also need to find or make a power beyond valve for the 1010. I got a raisable and reversable hoe crawler seat base from a junk 1010, but it was missing the hydraulics and the hoe.

I'm still surprised that it's not advisable to run a crawler on a side slope.

caribcanuck · Post by **caribcanuck** » Wed Jan 25, 2012 6:45 pm

Any slope where you hear the sprockets making noise against the rails is causing increased wear.You might get away with it on occasion but its best to avoid undercarriages are just to costly to replace. Sometime its just a matter of looking over the job and trying to find a way to attack the job and finding a way to attack the job from a different angle.

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Wed Jan 25, 2012 9:01 pm

i run my 2010s on side slopes a fair amount....... steep enough that you can sit on the arm rest steep enough that if your pushing much the ass end slides down the slope never had any problems

caribcanuck · Post by **caribcanuck** » Wed Jan 25, 2012 10:37 pm

I think alot of has to do with the machine and soil type. The d65 ex I used to run hated slopes several operator walked the track of grading dikes.It had new rails with less 50 hrs and that didnt resolve the issue. The wound up buying a d3 with a 6-way blade that seemed to do ok. I know my jd 420 with a model 62 blade makes all kinda noise on a typical ditch.

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Thu Jan 26, 2012 11:03 am

RanchTruck wrote: I'm still surprised that it's not advisable to run a crawler on a side slope.

I think you will find that standard construction procedure for dozing, including instruction given to apprentices in the operator's union, is to avoid sidecuts or otherwise run a crawler along sideslopes when possible. Steeper dozer pushes for slopes on large earthmoving jobs (especially greater than 3H:1V) are almost always made directly up or down the slope.

The primary reason is safety- when operating on a sideslope the balance of the crawler is affected. This is especially problematic with heavy rear mounted attachments or a loader if the boom is raised/load in the bucket which further unbalances the crawler on the slope. Buckets should be kept in the down position when working on slopes. Also if the crawler starts to slip downhill, it is much easier to stop the movement by simply lowering bucket, blade, or rear mounted attachment when going straight up or down the slope. This safety manual for the U.S. Forest Service describes some of the considerations when working on sidehills/sideslopes:

http://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/htmlpubs/ ... page05.htm

Other reasons for working up or down slope include making it easier to pull out if the crawler gets stuck and reducing wear and track slippage on the downslope edge of the undercarriage due to the transfer of much of the crawler weight to the downslope trackframe.

I have also done a fair bit of grading and ditch cutting on my farm with my 2010 that involved working on a sideslope. In those cases I make sure the slope isn't excessively steep (I define that as approx 3H:1V) with minimal safety consequences if I get stuck or slip a track.

Having said that, all except one of my slipped track incidents have occured because of working on sideslopes which can involve cost and downtime to pull you off of the sideslope with a slipped track (take a look at my post below with the tow truck to see some photos of how much a pain it is to pull a stuck crawler with a slipped track).

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... sc&start=0

After a while as JTRichard described, there is a very distinct sound of the rails scrubbing the bottom rollers and sprocket and that sound means you are causing considerable wear and are risking slipping the track. it can happen very quick so hard to avoid once you hear that sound.

For the activity you described, try to get a backhoe or excavator to do finesse work around foundations. Another option would be to temporarily fill in the ditch so you can approach the barn perpendicular with the loader, but I don't know the layout of your site so don't know if that is feasible.

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Thu Jan 26, 2012 7:09 pm

Hi: When the track pins and bushings get worn the tracks inherit a lot of "snake" as shown below. They are then more likely to walk off the front idler and lower rolls if given a side load; particularly if run loose.

RanchTruck · Post by **RanchTruck** » Sun Jan 29, 2012 12:31 am

I thought about how to approach it from across the ditch without pushing on the barn, and came up with using the ripper to break it up.

I put the one remaining tooth in the ripper, made a wedge to keep it in, and went to town. It worked pretty good. Break it up with the ripper, then come in from the end and cut it flat with the bucket. Everything was going well until I noticed some sort of liquid was building up on the exhaust pipe and the bottom of the muffler. The reverser cooler sprang a leak, and the oil was getting sucked through the radiator core and blown over everything by the fan.

I also found that if I was pushing hard and disengaged the right track clutch, the left track clutch would slip.

So yes, I have some work ahead of me.

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Track noise on 1010

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