1010 Dozer - patiently waiting... sitting in the corner

[Jason Z in MO]

Hello Crawler Crowd! It’s been a while since I posted hear but thought it was time I torn into the engine of my 1010 Diesel.

A couple years ago you all helped me get my derelict 1010D running. I had fuel issues but once I got it running it smoked horribly; blue and white and the oil pressure was running around 10 lbs. By then I was frustrated and just parked it in the corner. So after pouting around for a year or more I decided it was time to do something.

After 30 seconds of glow pluggin it started pretty easy but during the year’s rest she didn’t heal herself, still smoked just like before. I checked the oil which I had changed during the initial work and it was WAY over full and grey in color. (at least that’s what my color blind eyes saw). It didn’t look like coolant because it mixed with the oil so I suspected it was red dyed fuel but didn’t smell like diesel?!?!?!? Any idea what this concoction could be? I still think its fuel and assume my nose was still plugged from all the smoke.

The engine cranks over too easy for any diesel engine I have been around and when running it has a lot of blow by so I decided to pull the head. I had never adjusted the valves so last night I removed the valve cover. I checked a few valves and found one at .035” and most of the others in the .020-.028” range. The spec is .012 and .018” I believe; don’t have the book with me.

Could the large valve lash cause the problems I am seeing? Mainly, blowby and clouds of smoke. Before I pull the head I thought I would ask.

Here is what I found when I opened it up.

[Tigerhaze]

After 30 seconds of glow pluggin it started pretty easy but during the year’s rest she didn’t heal herself, still smoked just like before. I checked the oil which I had changed during the initial work and it was WAY over full and grey in color. (at least that’s what my color blind eyes saw). It didn’t look like coolant because it mixed with the oil so I suspected it was red dyed fuel but didn’t smell like diesel?!?!?!? Any idea what this concoction could be? I still think its fuel and assume my nose was still plugged from all the smoke.

Hi Jason- was wondering what had happened to you.

It is certainly possible for the fluid in the oil to be diesel- usually water or antifreeze will separate/partition in oil. Even on a dipstick you would sometimes notice the water droplets. When draining the oil pan cold, water/antifreeze would typically drain out first since it is heavier than the oil. If you have water/antifreeze in oil, need to drain as quickly as possible so you don't ruin the babbited surfaces on the main and connecting rod bearings.

There is a test kit ($50) you can buy to confirm presence of oil in the radiator by testing for the hydrocarbons- a positive result in the radiator would indicate cracked head or headgasket issues or bad sleeve seals.

Diesel and oil would not likely partition as readily (stay more mixed), but not sure what the resulting color would be. If diesel in the oil, it would likely come from bad umbrella seals on the injection pump.

[Jason Z in MO]

yeah I have been busy with wheeled tractors. Playing with a fairly new to me, JD 720 LP.

The pump was rebuilt when I put it back together a year ago. It has probably 1-2 hours on it.

I was thinking... If the intake valves are not opening enough to get a full air charge they won't develop full compression. Part of the intake stroke would create a vaccuum in the cylinder. But the pump would be delivering a full load of fuel. Some of this fuel comes out as smoke and the rest is squirted past the rings on the exhaust stroke. Because now the exhaust valve is slow in opening and the piston is creating pressure at the begining of the stroke. The cylinder is still loaded with a partial charge so some of that is pushed past the rings.

If this makes no sense, please say so. I'm ready to pull the head but wanted the experts to provide some feedback.

Sorry about the huge pictures. I will fix that next time.

[jdemaris]

I was thinking... If the intake valves are not opening enough to get a full air charge they won't develop full compression.

If this makes no sense, please say so. I'm ready to pull the head but wanted the experts to provide some feedback.

I've worked on my diesels with very loose rocker-arms. It has no effect except for lower power. None of the issues you have.

Last summer my neighbor put a new head gasket on his Ford diesel tractor and never checked valve adjustment. He called me up because the tractor was severely low on power. I yanked the valve cover and found some of the rockers had a 1/4" of clearance. It ran smooth and started OK. Just had very low power. Adjusted it and it ran fine once again.

[jtrichard]

ITS WATER........ grey in oil is water as for the rocker clearance that's not a big problem the reason it cranks like no diesel you have seen is there is very low compression (the white smoke) and the oil rings are gone also (blue smoke)the water is most likely the sleeve seals at the bottom of the clys.or the block has froze and split (you did have anti freeze in her right?) have you checked the water level? or added any lately? if you pull the oil pan first with it full of water and you should see drips around the outside of the sleeves if it the seals or broken block i did the lower seals on my 2010 it had GREY oil......as i call it mushroom gravy ......you need to bite the bullit and tear it down and at least do an overhaul

[Jason Z in MO]

I havent pulled the pan but I did drain the oil a few days ago. Its was the same grey crap from bottom to top but I agree it's probably water. Just strange how it hasn't separated. It has been stored with antifreeze since I have owned it so if the block is cracked its was like that before I donated the money for the honor of storing it.

The water level was low when I started messing with her a few days ago.
I found the upper radiator hose neck solder joint cracked but doesn't explain why it was below the core except evaporation... I just hope it's the o-rings and the block isn't cracked internally.

Thanks for the feedback, I read it earlier and went straight out and pulled the head. #2 is my biggest problem. The top of the piston is wet and all the others are dry. #2 cylinder has some deep gouges in it; the deepest is something like .030" deep. #1 has a little cylinder scoring as well but not as deep.

I took a picture but you can't see much so didn't post it.

Tomorrow I will pull the nose casting and skid plate. Radiator will need to come off and then the pan. Guess I should just pull the engine and stop fighting the tracts and dozer frame....

Is 1010D with 6way hydraulic blade and 3 point hitch (no top link...) worth it?!!?!!??!

Looks like I will need a good cylinder liner deck. Anyone have one floating around???

[jtrichard]

deck on ebay right now i dont know if its gas or diesel or condition

[Jason Z in MO]

I did notice one a few days ago but it was gas. I think the asking price was $600 but the auction ended with no takers.

Looks like deere might have the Diesel decks in inventory... $669...

the best I could measure the cylinders are around 3.630" standard is 3.625". The scoring is around 3.660 or .030's deep.

[jdemaris]

I did notice one a few days ago but it was gas. I think the asking price was $600 but the auction ended with no takers.

Looks like deere might have the Diesel decks in inventory... $669...

the best I could measure the cylinders are around 3.630" standard is 3.625". The scoring is around 3.660 or .030's deep.

1010 diesel and a 2010 gas use the same decks. So if buying used, you can also search for 2010 decks.