40C show and tell and front bolster?
40C show and tell and front bolster?
So had a chance to tinker a bit. It was starting really hard and backfiring, so checked the points and they looked pretty bad. A trip to Napa and they had just about everything on the shelf:
Napa stuff was a little pricey but there is no comparison in quality to the stuff Tractor Supply has. Runs fantastic now.
Then a trip to a logging supply place for a new 1/2 cable, a couple slides, and some chain chokers:
After working it for a bit noticed a leak in the radiator. The previous owner did not have the radiator tin bolted down, so it must have worked at the filler neck causing the joint to leak. Figured I'd try some JB weld first before I went the hard route. So far so good:
Finally the question. Somewhere along the line someone broke all the mounting tabs for the radiator guard on the front bolster.
I'm not sure yet whether it is cast iron or cast steel. I was planning on just welding on some angle iron and drilling new bolt holes in the guard, but if it's iron I may drill through it and bolt on the angle iron. Any input on how best to attack this?
Napa stuff was a little pricey but there is no comparison in quality to the stuff Tractor Supply has. Runs fantastic now.
Then a trip to a logging supply place for a new 1/2 cable, a couple slides, and some chain chokers:
After working it for a bit noticed a leak in the radiator. The previous owner did not have the radiator tin bolted down, so it must have worked at the filler neck causing the joint to leak. Figured I'd try some JB weld first before I went the hard route. So far so good:
Finally the question. Somewhere along the line someone broke all the mounting tabs for the radiator guard on the front bolster.
I'm not sure yet whether it is cast iron or cast steel. I was planning on just welding on some angle iron and drilling new bolt holes in the guard, but if it's iron I may drill through it and bolt on the angle iron. Any input on how best to attack this?
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- 1010 crawler
- Posts: 305
- Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2005 7:01 pm
- Location: Gloucester,Virginia
Front bumper
Hello,
The front bumper is cast steel and you can arc weld it.You could weld
in an angle or build up the areas where the bolts were , drill and
retap the holes.That is a lot of work. If originalty isn't important then
the angle iron idea should do you.Luck,JimAnderson
The front bumper is cast steel and you can arc weld it.You could weld
in an angle or build up the areas where the bolts were , drill and
retap the holes.That is a lot of work. If originalty isn't important then
the angle iron idea should do you.Luck,JimAnderson
- Paul Buhler
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 991
- Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 6:25 pm
- Location: Killington, VT
Hi: Nice new chokers! I'd recommend carrying them some other way. If they get caught, they may rip off your control lever
I use either "J" hooks on my canopy, or a mounted box. The box works best in terms of not losing them or getting them snagged. Some guys use nominal 3/16" - 1/4" steel to build these boxes, and the hooks hang on the sides with the chain itself inside; a drain is handy too.
Good luck getting your machine working the way you want. Paul
I use either "J" hooks on my canopy, or a mounted box. The box works best in terms of not losing them or getting them snagged. Some guys use nominal 3/16" - 1/4" steel to build these boxes, and the hooks hang on the sides with the chain itself inside; a drain is handy too.
Good luck getting your machine working the way you want. Paul
Paul Buhler
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch
Jim, glad the bolster is steel, thanks! The SS Originality sailed for this machine decades ago, so I just want everything to be solid and functional.
Paul, I agree I need to do something better with the chokers
An old timer also warned me never to be tempted to store a chain in the footrest well. Do you have any close up photos of your canopy?
Paul, I agree I need to do something better with the chokers
An old timer also warned me never to be tempted to store a chain in the footrest well. Do you have any close up photos of your canopy?
- Paul Buhler
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 991
- Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 6:25 pm
- Location: Killington, VT
Here are some shots that may be useful:
The rear of the canopy bolts to the winch with nominal. 1.5x1.5x.25 angle iron which has two outboard 6" long round vertical sleeves into which the canopy uprights slide.
At the front, the risers have slots cut into them so that the flat stock will align with the inside of the grill guard and bolt to it.
The roof pitches to the rear slightly so that the rain drips off behind the seat and not onto your lap (usually).
I used hose clamps to mount the "j" hook for my chokers to the stretch mesh so that if something snagged, the clamps would be the weak link and let go. I still want to build a box that will hold my chokers and chainsaw just above the winch and out of the way.
Sorry I don't know how to get these pictures to post so that you can zoom in or enlarge them.
Paul
EDIT: If you use "CNTRL +" the whole page will zoom in showing more details, but they will be fuzzier.
The rear of the canopy bolts to the winch with nominal. 1.5x1.5x.25 angle iron which has two outboard 6" long round vertical sleeves into which the canopy uprights slide.
At the front, the risers have slots cut into them so that the flat stock will align with the inside of the grill guard and bolt to it.
The roof pitches to the rear slightly so that the rain drips off behind the seat and not onto your lap (usually).
I used hose clamps to mount the "j" hook for my chokers to the stretch mesh so that if something snagged, the clamps would be the weak link and let go. I still want to build a box that will hold my chokers and chainsaw just above the winch and out of the way.
Sorry I don't know how to get these pictures to post so that you can zoom in or enlarge them.
Paul
EDIT: If you use "CNTRL +" the whole page will zoom in showing more details, but they will be fuzzier.
Last edited by Paul Buhler on Thu Mar 22, 2012 5:02 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Paul Buhler
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch
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- 420 crawler
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Thu Mar 18, 2010 7:39 pm
Heres a few pics of the cage the previous owner built on my 420 , he used it to drag pine trees out of the bush to his sawmill which i also bought.
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I have to tear down the right side clearing clutch this spring cause its not releasing properly but runs fine other than that.
/v303/caribcanuk/th_cat2002-1.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
I have to tear down the right side clearing clutch this spring cause its not releasing properly but runs fine other than that.
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- 420 crawler
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Thu Mar 18, 2010 7:39 pm
The trailer came with it, it was made for it to haul it to the area where he harvested the trees from. it tilits so its very easy to load / unload the dozer.Its got hydraulic brakes with a surge couple but they need a complete overhaul and i rarely haul the dozer my property is like a 10 min drive from where i bought the dozer.
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- 1010 crawler
- Posts: 305
- Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2005 7:01 pm
- Location: Gloucester,Virginia
Front bolster
I am no welder but I've welded up mine with 6013 mild steel on
my 225 Lincoln buzz box.Give it a shot.If yours is cast steel then
you should be able to use Nyrod.JimAnderson
my 225 Lincoln buzz box.Give it a shot.If yours is cast steel then
you should be able to use Nyrod.JimAnderson
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- 1010 crawler
- Posts: 305
- Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2005 7:01 pm
- Location: Gloucester,Virginia
Front bolster
After reading this thread again, I must say that I agree with the
bolster being cast iron.I've tried to weld up one of mine and it isn't
cast steel.With that said the bumper I have is cast steel and is
weldable.I thought the original question was about repairing the
bumper and not the bolster which it was bolted to.Sorry for
the confusion.Luck,JimAnderson
bolster being cast iron.I've tried to weld up one of mine and it isn't
cast steel.With that said the bumper I have is cast steel and is
weldable.I thought the original question was about repairing the
bumper and not the bolster which it was bolted to.Sorry for
the confusion.Luck,JimAnderson
So here's what I did:
I ground the risers that were broken off flat and drilled 4 holes through the bolster. Then I burned a piece of angle iron onto the back of the grill guard with some 6011 rod (I love my old Lincoln Tombstone). It was a bit of squeeze getting the bolts in with the grill in place, but other than that it should work just fine.
On another note, does anyone know where to get the twist-lock fasteners for the hood at a reasonable cost? I found some on Ebay but they were $7 each . I need around 9 of them. For now I just went with bolts.
I ground the risers that were broken off flat and drilled 4 holes through the bolster. Then I burned a piece of angle iron onto the back of the grill guard with some 6011 rod (I love my old Lincoln Tombstone). It was a bit of squeeze getting the bolts in with the grill in place, but other than that it should work just fine.
On another note, does anyone know where to get the twist-lock fasteners for the hood at a reasonable cost? I found some on Ebay but they were $7 each . I need around 9 of them. For now I just went with bolts.
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