1955 John Deere 40C
- Willyr
- 2010 crawler
- Posts: 695
- Joined: Sat Jul 17, 2010 3:03 am
- Location: Downeast Maine (North of Ellsworth)
Lavoy often sells them
former owner of a 1956 420c
All help is greatly appreciated.
Proud owner of a project 1952 JD 60
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFehqXVd9z4
All help is greatly appreciated.
Proud owner of a project 1952 JD 60
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFehqXVd9z4
40c track adjuster nuts
hi AllenS, I also have a 40c and experienced the same problem as you are having. Looking at your picture of the left side of your machine, the adjuster nuts are to the rear of the front idler as mine were. In that position you can't raise the blade high enough to get the arm out of your way! After looking at some of the pictures in the manual, I turned the springs around so the adjuster nuts are at the front of the crawler just below the idler. In this position you can raise the blade high enough to get it out of your way and you don't have to crawl under the machine to get at the nuts. Worked for me! Good luck with your project! Randy from Michigan.
- Willyr
- 2010 crawler
- Posts: 695
- Joined: Sat Jul 17, 2010 3:03 am
- Location: Downeast Maine (North of Ellsworth)
Thats all very well Doc40, yet if he replaces the pins and bushings, the adjusters wont have enough room unless he runs his tracks over tight.
former owner of a 1956 420c
All help is greatly appreciated.
Proud owner of a project 1952 JD 60
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFehqXVd9z4
All help is greatly appreciated.
Proud owner of a project 1952 JD 60
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFehqXVd9z4
Springs are the same length regardless of orientation, so that won't matter. The problem will be the missing link, a link would need to be added to each track.
Pins and bushings are readiliy available, roughly $12/link for the pair. You will also need a track press to install them, so keep that in mind.
Lavoy
Pins and bushings are readiliy available, roughly $12/link for the pair. You will also need a track press to install them, so keep that in mind.
Lavoy
Saturday, I completed installing the new adjustment rods that I built on the right side. The master pin came out easily, and went back in easy. Even with the missing link, I'll be able to adjust the tracks because of the length that I figured that I'd need for the adjusting rods Today, I tried to remove the master pin from the left side and I got it to move only far enough as to not allow me to put the snap ring back on. I have made two more adjustment rods for the left side. The master link is at the 10 o'clock position on the idler, so I'll have to remove a shoe at about the 8 o'clock position to slide the adjusting rods in.
I've gone through life at least trying to do things. Oftentimes, I've been able to come up with a solution to just about everything that I've attempted. You know what? I have to admit defeat with these tracks.
I'll put the new adjusting rods in, leave a sag of about 1 1/2", then take it easy with the crawler while I'm using it. Some day, I'll load the whole thing up and take it somewhere to have new pins and bushings installed.
I want to thank everyone for their helpful responses. I think Lavoy is at the top of his game with these crawlers and I will follow his advice.
I've gone through life at least trying to do things. Oftentimes, I've been able to come up with a solution to just about everything that I've attempted. You know what? I have to admit defeat with these tracks.
I'll put the new adjusting rods in, leave a sag of about 1 1/2", then take it easy with the crawler while I'm using it. Some day, I'll load the whole thing up and take it somewhere to have new pins and bushings installed.
I want to thank everyone for their helpful responses. I think Lavoy is at the top of his game with these crawlers and I will follow his advice.
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