440ICD Master Link Pin
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- 2010 crawler
- Posts: 622
- Joined: Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:02 am
- Location: Steubenville, OH
440ICD Master Link Pin
Hey guys, I started in on the undercarriage part of my project. I attempted to split the tracks today but didn't have much luck.
The problem is I don't exactly know what the master link pin looks like. I searched on here and got a few mixed reports.
My manual says the pin should have a snap ring on one end. If this is the case, will I find the snap ring on the inside or outside of the tracks?
Also, I thought I read on here one time that the master pin would have a dimple on the end. Well I located a pin on each track that has a dimple in the middle of the pin.
I heated the link around the pin and hit on it a good bit but I don't think it budged.
So am I hitting on the right thing?
The problem is I don't exactly know what the master link pin looks like. I searched on here and got a few mixed reports.
My manual says the pin should have a snap ring on one end. If this is the case, will I find the snap ring on the inside or outside of the tracks?
Also, I thought I read on here one time that the master pin would have a dimple on the end. Well I located a pin on each track that has a dimple in the middle of the pin.
I heated the link around the pin and hit on it a good bit but I don't think it budged.
So am I hitting on the right thing?
Ben
Great Grandpa's 1960 440ICD 602 blade
Between SN's: 455,633 - 456,801
Currently Rebuilding/Restoring
Great Grandpa's 1960 440ICD 602 blade
Between SN's: 455,633 - 456,801
Currently Rebuilding/Restoring
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- 1010 crawler
- Posts: 301
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2007 1:08 pm
- Location: rhode island
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- 2010 crawler
- Posts: 622
- Joined: Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:02 am
- Location: Steubenville, OH
Thanks mini,
Hopefully I don't have to burn out, but it might come to that. The tracks haven't moved in 20+ years so...
I've been soaking the link with PB Blaster, might give it another shot today.
Hopefully I don't have to burn out, but it might come to that. The tracks haven't moved in 20+ years so...
I've been soaking the link with PB Blaster, might give it another shot today.
Ben
Great Grandpa's 1960 440ICD 602 blade
Between SN's: 455,633 - 456,801
Currently Rebuilding/Restoring
Great Grandpa's 1960 440ICD 602 blade
Between SN's: 455,633 - 456,801
Currently Rebuilding/Restoring
- 440 iron popper
- 1010 crawler
- Posts: 273
- Joined: Sun Sep 26, 2010 7:48 pm
- Location: Québec, Canada
My 2nd 440 was hard to get the tracks off. Just finished 2 days ago. Left track has a welded/torched master pin. I can't remove it. I couldn't position the right track correctly to get the pin out because of the final drive breakdown. So on both sides, I screwed front idler ajustment all the way in. REAL pain. 53 year old beaten up threads. Heat, M55 can, bent pipe wrench, broke my big pliers... Then I could jump the track over the idler, free the sprocket. done. I hope you can drive the pins out because this alternate method works but its more time consuming.
440IC 1958 #443712, 602 blade, Gearmatic winch project in the back
440IC, serial tag gone, Blade with tilt
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440IC, serial tag gone, Blade with tilt
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- 2010 crawler
- Posts: 597
- Joined: Thu Aug 27, 2009 10:08 pm
- Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Need some backup
We always remove the track pads before and after the masterlink and then you need to think about how to backup the rails before getting out the sledge hammer. Two options that we use.
1. Have someone hold a larger (5 foot) crow bar and back up the rail. Place the tip of the bar as close to the master link as possible and hold it as straight as possible in relation to the master pin.
2. Cut a short piece of pipe with an internal diamater larger than the master pin that will fit between the rails and the final drive housing.
This should make it a little easier to get the pin out.
Also consider building a pin driver, all you need is a 10 inch pin sligthly smaller in diameter than the master pin and a 3 foot chunk of round bar. Weld the round bar to the driving pin. That way you can have your buddy at a distance without any fear of you missing with the sledge hammer.
1. Have someone hold a larger (5 foot) crow bar and back up the rail. Place the tip of the bar as close to the master link as possible and hold it as straight as possible in relation to the master pin.
2. Cut a short piece of pipe with an internal diamater larger than the master pin that will fit between the rails and the final drive housing.
This should make it a little easier to get the pin out.
Also consider building a pin driver, all you need is a 10 inch pin sligthly smaller in diameter than the master pin and a 3 foot chunk of round bar. Weld the round bar to the driving pin. That way you can have your buddy at a distance without any fear of you missing with the sledge hammer.
Jason Benesch
John Deere 420, 430, 440 & 350C With 3 Point Hitch
John Deere 400G With Winch
John Deere 2010 Crawler Dozer
John Deere 420, 430, 435 & 440 Wheel Tractors
John Deere 420, 430, 440 & 350C With 3 Point Hitch
John Deere 400G With Winch
John Deere 2010 Crawler Dozer
John Deere 420, 430, 435 & 440 Wheel Tractors
- Captainjoe
- 430 crawler
- Posts: 66
- Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2012 5:53 am
- Location: Sandyville WV
UNderstand this is an old post, but personally dont take master links out period.
Just take the whole track off.
I have one hydraulic tensioner and one screwtype tensioner.
on the screw type I just use an old fashion chain wrench from harbor freight, a wire brush and a can of PK Blaster. They also work on hydraulic caps. Tried a large open end wrench and a pipe wrench but that got old real fast.
On the hydraulic type rotate tube or take a zerk out and compress with a come along.
I can understand about the cutting thing though, it's exactly what I do when replacing universal joints. i can cut one off in less than a minute...LOL
Just take the whole track off.
I have one hydraulic tensioner and one screwtype tensioner.
on the screw type I just use an old fashion chain wrench from harbor freight, a wire brush and a can of PK Blaster. They also work on hydraulic caps. Tried a large open end wrench and a pipe wrench but that got old real fast.
On the hydraulic type rotate tube or take a zerk out and compress with a come along.
I can understand about the cutting thing though, it's exactly what I do when replacing universal joints. i can cut one off in less than a minute...LOL
It's better to seek forgivness than to ask for permission...
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