Clutch Housing seal 40c
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- 440 crawler
- Posts: 223
- Joined: Sun Oct 27, 2013 8:41 am
- Location: Saint John, NB, Canada
Clutch Housing seal 40c
Does anyone know if I have to remove the steering clutch housing to get the quill off the side of the differential to replace the seal. I am rebuilding my clutch and see evidence of transmisssion oil leaking into the housing. I have removed all of the bolts from the quill and it is loose but it wont seem to come out past the housing. Is there a trick to this or will I have to remove the side frame and clutch housing? Thanks.
It will come, it will just make you work for it. Sometimes you can rotate it as you pull and that will help. Other than that, cuss and swear fight it.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
-
- 440 crawler
- Posts: 223
- Joined: Sun Oct 27, 2013 8:41 am
- Location: Saint John, NB, Canada
Thanks, I'll keep at it. Just didn't want to be continuing to do the same thing if it wasn't giong to work. I'll spray some oil around it and keep wiggling it and try to turn it as well. I've got a long rod in the recess for one brake post and a pair ov visegrips on the other post to give some leverage. I'll try turning as you suggested.
Pull the back cover off of the trans, if you haven't, you will need to so you can make sure not to roll the carrier seal when you put the quill back in. This is especially necessary if you didn't get the original style shielded seal.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
-
- 440 crawler
- Posts: 223
- Joined: Sun Oct 27, 2013 8:41 am
- Location: Saint John, NB, Canada
Lavoy,
Thanks for the help. I removed the rear cover, loosened the bolts on the clutch housing and was able to tap the quill out from inside very easily. I do have the seal that is not shielded so I assume it's just a matter of greasing it well and being careful on the install so it dosen't roll. The clutch kit that I have is for a 420. but the vendor that sold it to me said that it will work in a 40 but I need to use the extra discs included since they are thinner than the original 40 ones. The kit also included the tool for adjusting the pressure plate if necessary. Any comments? Thanks for all your help. I wish I had known about this site before I bought the parts elsewhere.
Dave
Thanks for the help. I removed the rear cover, loosened the bolts on the clutch housing and was able to tap the quill out from inside very easily. I do have the seal that is not shielded so I assume it's just a matter of greasing it well and being careful on the install so it dosen't roll. The clutch kit that I have is for a 420. but the vendor that sold it to me said that it will work in a 40 but I need to use the extra discs included since they are thinner than the original 40 ones. The kit also included the tool for adjusting the pressure plate if necessary. Any comments? Thanks for all your help. I wish I had known about this site before I bought the parts elsewhere.
Dave
Sounds like you have a good handle on the whole thing.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
-
- 440 crawler
- Posts: 223
- Joined: Sun Oct 27, 2013 8:41 am
- Location: Saint John, NB, Canada
There should be a tube, no reason not to have one. I stock them if you need one.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
-
- 440 crawler
- Posts: 223
- Joined: Sun Oct 27, 2013 8:41 am
- Location: Saint John, NB, Canada
No problem, let me know when you need them.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
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