Battery for 440 icd
Battery for 440 icd
Hey all, first time message for me. Does anyone have any new battery recommendations (size/type/cranking amps) for a 440 icd? The local shops mostly carry NAPA and Interstate batteries. I am going to try starting it for the first time in a few years.
- JD440ICD2006
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 1113
- Joined: Tue Aug 22, 2006 3:57 pm
- Location: South Carolina
I am sure there are several battery suppliers that have models that will work. I like having extra CCA so I opted for the one that TSC sells. I do not have the code for it, but it is rated at over 900CCA and fits in the battery box (13X7) that I have on the left fender. You may want to look at a different size if you are stuffing it under the dash area.
Get as high a CCA as you can.
Get as high a CCA as you can.
1959 JD 440ICD w/64 Power Angle Tilt Blade
1959 JD 440ICD w/63 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 440IC w/602 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 730D W SE (many options)
1950 JD M S w/M-20 Mower
1952 JD M W
1955 FORD 640 (burns the most fuel)
1959 JD 440ICD w/63 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 440IC w/602 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 730D W SE (many options)
1950 JD M S w/M-20 Mower
1952 JD M W
1955 FORD 640 (burns the most fuel)
Since we are talking about batteries, what are the recommended sizes and lengths of battery cables for these crawlers? (mine is a 2010 by the way). I think that contributes to my starting problems, as not only do the cables seem to be too small a gauge but the previous owener relocated the battery tray from below the deluxe seat to up near the loader control lever so the positive cable (converted to negative ground machine) is much longer than stock.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
One thing on batteries is to make sure they are quoting you CCA, not CA, that is a new trick they started doing a few years ago.
As to cables, teh bigger the better. A 1010/2010 has a really long cable to start with, I personally would not use anything under #1. Just don't buy the auto parts/Wal Mart 4 gauge cables that every one has on the shelf. Order one the correct gauge, or find some one that can make them up. The cable to the starter is the most critical, but make sure the ground is not bad either.
Lavoy
As to cables, teh bigger the better. A 1010/2010 has a really long cable to start with, I personally would not use anything under #1. Just don't buy the auto parts/Wal Mart 4 gauge cables that every one has on the shelf. Order one the correct gauge, or find some one that can make them up. The cable to the starter is the most critical, but make sure the ground is not bad either.
Lavoy
- JD440ICD2006
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 1113
- Joined: Tue Aug 22, 2006 3:57 pm
- Location: South Carolina
A thought about paint related to starting, even old paint, can be your friend until you need a good connection for the wire going to the battery. I had a problem with my 440IC where it would drag like the battery was weak. I did my routine of checking the entire circuit. What I found was the ground wire (neg grd) was bolted to a place that had been painted. It was making contact, but not real good. I cleaned the paint off and you would have thought I put a whole new starting system in it. It pops right off now.
1959 JD 440ICD w/64 Power Angle Tilt Blade
1959 JD 440ICD w/63 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 440IC w/602 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 730D W SE (many options)
1950 JD M S w/M-20 Mower
1952 JD M W
1955 FORD 640 (burns the most fuel)
1959 JD 440ICD w/63 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 440IC w/602 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 730D W SE (many options)
1950 JD M S w/M-20 Mower
1952 JD M W
1955 FORD 640 (burns the most fuel)
Thanks for your replies. NAPA actually had a number for the 440 icd so it was pretty easy. The battery has 925 CCA. Now my problem is, the motor is most likely hydrolocked. It's been in the brush for 3-4 years and although the stack was covered, water got into the crankcase. The water was clear so definately not coolant. I drained the water-oil from the crankcase and put in fresh oil before trying to start. No go. Bumped the starter a couple of times but the motor turned just ever so slightly. Did not have the right sockets to remove the rocker arm shafts to pull the fuel injectors so will have to mull this over for a couple of weeks until I can get back up there. Any thoughts, ideas, prayers, etc.?
- JD440ICD2006
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 1113
- Joined: Tue Aug 22, 2006 3:57 pm
- Location: South Carolina
Depending on the amount of water that came out of the bottom of your oil, it simply could have been moisture that naturally occurs. I has to do with the heating and cooling of the engine. Even if it is not started, it gets warmer in summer, and then cools at night. If it was in an area with higher humidity, it will surprise you how much water it will "make".
Best route now I believe would be to start taking things off to see just what is going on inside the engine. Take your time, it will cost a lot less in the long run. Your idea to pull the injectors is what I would try. They are very easy to pull.
I posted some pictures on this site under "replacing injectors". Take a look if it will help familiarize you with what is there.
Be certain you have a service manual for the GM 2-53 because you have some critical torque values that must be followed when you put it back together.
Post pictures of your progress, ask questions, this site is the best with valuable information and knowledgeable people.
Best route now I believe would be to start taking things off to see just what is going on inside the engine. Take your time, it will cost a lot less in the long run. Your idea to pull the injectors is what I would try. They are very easy to pull.
I posted some pictures on this site under "replacing injectors". Take a look if it will help familiarize you with what is there.
Be certain you have a service manual for the GM 2-53 because you have some critical torque values that must be followed when you put it back together.
Post pictures of your progress, ask questions, this site is the best with valuable information and knowledgeable people.
1959 JD 440ICD w/64 Power Angle Tilt Blade
1959 JD 440ICD w/63 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 440IC w/602 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 730D W SE (many options)
1950 JD M S w/M-20 Mower
1952 JD M W
1955 FORD 640 (burns the most fuel)
1959 JD 440ICD w/63 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 440IC w/602 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 730D W SE (many options)
1950 JD M S w/M-20 Mower
1952 JD M W
1955 FORD 640 (burns the most fuel)
Thanks for the tips. I'll print those pictures out and take them with me. I also have the service manual but not the parts catalog. Have e-mailed Brad K for ordering instructions on CD. Are those goofy looking bolts that GM used on the rocker arm shaft designed for a 12 pt. socket or are they something else?
- JD440ICD2006
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 1113
- Joined: Tue Aug 22, 2006 3:57 pm
- Location: South Carolina
A 12 point socket is all you need for those bolts.
We look forward to seeing the pictures.
We look forward to seeing the pictures.
1959 JD 440ICD w/64 Power Angle Tilt Blade
1959 JD 440ICD w/63 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 440IC w/602 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 730D W SE (many options)
1950 JD M S w/M-20 Mower
1952 JD M W
1955 FORD 640 (burns the most fuel)
1959 JD 440ICD w/63 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 440IC w/602 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 730D W SE (many options)
1950 JD M S w/M-20 Mower
1952 JD M W
1955 FORD 640 (burns the most fuel)
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