Replacing Master Pin on 2010
Replacing Master Pin on 2010
Hi Guys-
I threw a track a while ago and was able to easily remove the master pin at that time. I have the track reinstalled over the idlers, sprocket, and rollers but am having trouble making the two split rails meet to put the master pin back in. I have retracted the front idler assembly as far as it will go (at least to the non-shiny corroded portion of the hydraulic adjustment rod) and used a come-along to pull the two pad and rail sections together but am still short of joining them by a couple of inches.
Does it sound like I still need some slack in the track (I might have a little slack between the last roller and sprocket?) or is it naturally difficult to pull them together? If so is there a specific tool used for pulling them together or do you use a come-along? I saw a track connecting tool on Ebay but didn't know if that was mainly for larger crawlers or tanks.
I still plan on showing my trials and tribulations with this in the Show and Tell forum
Thank you in advance-
I threw a track a while ago and was able to easily remove the master pin at that time. I have the track reinstalled over the idlers, sprocket, and rollers but am having trouble making the two split rails meet to put the master pin back in. I have retracted the front idler assembly as far as it will go (at least to the non-shiny corroded portion of the hydraulic adjustment rod) and used a come-along to pull the two pad and rail sections together but am still short of joining them by a couple of inches.
Does it sound like I still need some slack in the track (I might have a little slack between the last roller and sprocket?) or is it naturally difficult to pull them together? If so is there a specific tool used for pulling them together or do you use a come-along? I saw a track connecting tool on Ebay but didn't know if that was mainly for larger crawlers or tanks.
I still plan on showing my trials and tribulations with this in the Show and Tell forum
Thank you in advance-
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
Here's the link to a previous post on the topic.
http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... .php?t=197
http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... .php?t=197
Bill Wattson
Thanks for the link Bill-
I guess I might hold off on the track tool until I give it another shot. I do have the snow pads so it would fit but maybe I just need to relook at it. I had to order another master link pin anyhow and it won't be in until next week most likely. I have the old pin but the snap ring was gone and the pin was worn.
I really didn't have a choice in where the track split; the track slipped off the front idler to the inside of the track frame and got lodged between it and the loader arm, so I was pretty luck to get it unwedged any way I could. That and the fact I was on muddy ground made it really tough just to get the track out away from the rollers and then back on and under the undercarriage. I have it split and loose now to where I can slowly run the crawler in gear forward or backward to line up the track for rejoining, but there is a tree in the way which is keeping me from rolling the track split back to the sprocket. I tried it first on the front idler, but it was pretty tough to pull both ends together so I was now trying it between the front and top idlers and got it close with a come- along.
Did I mention I am having to do this by myself? It will make a good presentation on what to do and not do on the Show and Tell forum
I guess I might hold off on the track tool until I give it another shot. I do have the snow pads so it would fit but maybe I just need to relook at it. I had to order another master link pin anyhow and it won't be in until next week most likely. I have the old pin but the snap ring was gone and the pin was worn.
I really didn't have a choice in where the track split; the track slipped off the front idler to the inside of the track frame and got lodged between it and the loader arm, so I was pretty luck to get it unwedged any way I could. That and the fact I was on muddy ground made it really tough just to get the track out away from the rollers and then back on and under the undercarriage. I have it split and loose now to where I can slowly run the crawler in gear forward or backward to line up the track for rejoining, but there is a tree in the way which is keeping me from rolling the track split back to the sprocket. I tried it first on the front idler, but it was pretty tough to pull both ends together so I was now trying it between the front and top idlers and got it close with a come- along.
Did I mention I am having to do this by myself? It will make a good presentation on what to do and not do on the Show and Tell forum
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
Wish I was closer so I could come over to lend a hand. I've pulled two tracks off but haven't put any back on yet so it would be a learning experience for me too. Is it too soft where it's at to jack up the side with the track off? I think it would be easier for you with that side off the ground so you could get it lined up on the sprocket without the trees helping.
Bill Wattson
If you have the track over the front idler, and the split is between there and the sprocket there is another trick. Put a block between the loader bucket and the front idler, and then curl the bucket down and use it to compress the track spring. This should give you enough room to put the pin in.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Thanks for the tip Lavoy- I had thought about using the loader bucket to help but couldn't figure out how to do that.
Bill, the ground has been pretty soft between snowmelt and rain so I was good to finally get the track under the rollers. I used large flat stones to help distribute the weight when using bottle jacks, and the stones still sank about a foot into the ground before they finally allowed me to raise the crawler. I also had to use two bottle jacks in tandem, basically raising one as high as it could go and then getting to a lower spot on the crawler frame and raising that portion using the other jack, kind of leapfrogging until I could get it high enough to clear the bottom rollers.
Bill, the ground has been pretty soft between snowmelt and rain so I was good to finally get the track under the rollers. I used large flat stones to help distribute the weight when using bottle jacks, and the stones still sank about a foot into the ground before they finally allowed me to raise the crawler. I also had to use two bottle jacks in tandem, basically raising one as high as it could go and then getting to a lower spot on the crawler frame and raising that portion using the other jack, kind of leapfrogging until I could get it high enough to clear the bottom rollers.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
I'll be posting some pics- everyobdy should have a chance to learn from my misery in Missouri!
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
- lastchancegarage
- 440 crawler
- Posts: 138
- Joined: Mon Jan 09, 2006 7:24 am
- Location: Ct.
Tigerhaze,
I don't know if this will fit your situation but when my neighbor threw a track on the 440 he was having a hell of a time getting enough slack to put it back on the front idler. Problem was all the slack was being eaten up by the soft ground underneath. I told him to stick a couple of 8x8 ties he had under the front blade and lift the front of the crawler off the ground thereby putting all the weight on the rear sprocket. That loosened up the tracks on the top and bottom enough to work the chain over the front idler. In your case, you might want to attach your come-along to a couple of convenient track links (you mentioned you had snow shoes which have nice hook points) before you lift the front. Then hopefully you can rachet the links close enough to install the pin. If your cylinders are in decent shape they should hold it long enough for you to see if that'll give you enough slack. Good luck.
Scott
I don't know if this will fit your situation but when my neighbor threw a track on the 440 he was having a hell of a time getting enough slack to put it back on the front idler. Problem was all the slack was being eaten up by the soft ground underneath. I told him to stick a couple of 8x8 ties he had under the front blade and lift the front of the crawler off the ground thereby putting all the weight on the rear sprocket. That loosened up the tracks on the top and bottom enough to work the chain over the front idler. In your case, you might want to attach your come-along to a couple of convenient track links (you mentioned you had snow shoes which have nice hook points) before you lift the front. Then hopefully you can rachet the links close enough to install the pin. If your cylinders are in decent shape they should hold it long enough for you to see if that'll give you enough slack. Good luck.
Scott
Keep the tracks down and the torque up!!
1959 JD 440 ICD dozer
1959 Case 310B backhoe w/belly grader option
195? ATC GT-25 dozer
19?? Stow 1 ton roller w/rare cooler option!
1959 JD 440 ICD dozer
1959 Case 310B backhoe w/belly grader option
195? ATC GT-25 dozer
19?? Stow 1 ton roller w/rare cooler option!
My bucket cylinders have good holding power; I have been lifting it off the ground in the front with it when I needed to get it out from underneath after the track threw off but really didn't think about doing that with the come-along on it to remove the slack.
Thanks for all the good suggestions- I WILL get it back on this weekend!
Thanks for all the good suggestions- I WILL get it back on this weekend!
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
Success!!!! I worked on it at the end of the day yesterday and finally got the master link pin set. I ended up readjusting the track split to be at the sprocket as Lavoy stated in the original thread about this that Bill had provided. It really helps to have it at the sprocket beacuse you can see how many "links" worth of slack you need to reconnect.
The other part of the good news is that even though it sat in the weather (albeit covered) for about 4 months, the steering clutches were both free when I drove it yesterday so I'm back in business.
Thanks to Lavoy and Bill and others for the good tips.
The other part of the good news is that even though it sat in the weather (albeit covered) for about 4 months, the steering clutches were both free when I drove it yesterday so I'm back in business.
Thanks to Lavoy and Bill and others for the good tips.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
I will post the pics soon in the Show and Tell- I have just been very busy at work.
My track slipped off while on a slight sideslope and while pulling a turn with the steering lever. My undercarriage (mainly rail height) is worn so I am sure it is a factor. My hydraulic track tensioners work but they slowly leak down.
I have notice that my problems keeping them on have been (excluding the contributing factors of excessive wear and proper tensioning):
-Going too fast over rough terrain (slips out from underneath bottom rollers)
-Approaching slopes (even slight ones) at an angle as opposed to perpendicular
-Excessive tight turns, especially on slight slopes
Unfortunately I was doing all three when mine came off. There is a very distinct noise (the track gets "grumpy" and starts clanking) when it is close to jumping. I can usually catch it in time but this particular time I let it go too far and paid for it. I am a lot more careful now about that.
My track slipped off while on a slight sideslope and while pulling a turn with the steering lever. My undercarriage (mainly rail height) is worn so I am sure it is a factor. My hydraulic track tensioners work but they slowly leak down.
I have notice that my problems keeping them on have been (excluding the contributing factors of excessive wear and proper tensioning):
-Going too fast over rough terrain (slips out from underneath bottom rollers)
-Approaching slopes (even slight ones) at an angle as opposed to perpendicular
-Excessive tight turns, especially on slight slopes
Unfortunately I was doing all three when mine came off. There is a very distinct noise (the track gets "grumpy" and starts clanking) when it is close to jumping. I can usually catch it in time but this particular time I let it go too far and paid for it. I am a lot more careful now about that.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
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