2010 hydraulic issue

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
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Jds
40C crawler
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2010 hydraulic issue

Post by Jds » Tue Jul 31, 2018 9:53 am

Hey everyone, I've gotten a lot of good useful info from this and can't thank everyone enough. Now I've got a problem with the hydraulics on my 2010. It's from 63 and is a diesel with an hlr transmission and an outside manual blade. So the problem I'm having is that the blade goes up and down as it should with the machine on level ground and at any rpm, but as soon as I start up an incline the hydraulics start to chatter or do nothing at all when trying to operate the blade. I know there is enough oil in the trans, I cleaned the screen for the pump and tested it by pouring oil in the center. Thanks for any insight into what it may be, it's got me stumped.

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Tigerhaze
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Re: 2010 hydraulic issue

Post by Tigerhaze » Thu Aug 02, 2018 11:20 am

I don't believe that the hydraulics for the manual dozer blade are in any way plumbed to the HLR- there should be a separate reservoir and pump (pump could be front mounted and driven by the belt or rear mounted Cessna pump and driven by the PTO). It sounds to me that you are low on Hygard (or JD 303 equivalent) in that system. Try looking into that first- trace the hoses/lines from the blade lift rams to fin the reservoir tank.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment

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Jds
40C crawler
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Re: 2010 hydraulic issue

Post by Jds » Thu Aug 02, 2018 11:32 am

I could be calling the blade by the wrong name. The frame for it mounts on the outside of the tracks, has 2 a-frame looking braces that the lift cylinders pull or push on to move the blade up and down, it's got shims to tilt the blade and pins on either side to angle it. I know the lift cylinders run off of the pump mounted in the bellhousing of the trans. I've had the whole nose off the machine before and there's defenitly no pump up front and there's only a pto in the back. Also the return hose for the hydraulics goes into the ring gear housing. One other thing I forgot to mention is that the rod by your left foot that is supposed to disengage the trans does nothing, not sure if that could have something to do with it. Thanks

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Tigerhaze
350 crawler
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Re: 2010 hydraulic issue

Post by Tigerhaze » Thu Aug 02, 2018 11:45 am

We would generically refer to that as a two-way outside blade.I don't have that type of dozer blade on my 2010s so certainly defer to you if you have confirmed you have an internal pump for the dozer hydraulics. I do know of the rod you are speaking about near your foot- that is the HLR disengagement lever for starting in cold weather- if it were to be engaged (pulled up) it disconnects the engine from the HLR you would not have blade or loader hydraulics if an internal or rear mounted pump- but I believe your HLR would not move the crawler as well. It's possible it is part of the problem since it does affect operation of the HLR and systems running off of the engine crankshaft.

Back to your issue- maybe an internally collapsed hose to the lift cylinders?
Last edited by Tigerhaze on Thu Aug 02, 2018 11:53 am, edited 1 time in total.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment

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Jds
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Re: 2010 hydraulic issue

Post by Jds » Thu Aug 02, 2018 11:52 am

Ya that what I was thinking would happen if it were something being disengaged by that lever, I figured it was worth posting just to be sure though. I think I am going to drop the belly pan this weekend and remove the pump just to have a look at it and make sure it's ok (fingers crossed). The screen was pretty crudded up when I removed it for cleaning, I wonder if somehow dirt got past it and into the pump. I'm going to try to post a picture of it just so everyone can see what blade it is for sure. Thanks

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Jds
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Re: 2010 hydraulic issue

Post by Jds » Thu Aug 02, 2018 1:46 pm

I will look at all the hoses this weekend as well. Right now I'm not really thinking it's the pump because it works just fine on level ground but I guess it may be a possibility. Thanks

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Jds
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Re: 2010 hydraulic issue

Post by Jds » Thu Aug 02, 2018 4:37 pm

Image

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Last edited by Jds on Thu Aug 02, 2018 6:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Jds
40C crawler
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Re: 2010 hydraulic issue

Post by Jds » Thu Aug 02, 2018 5:27 pm

So I just got the pump out of the bellhousing and took it apart. There doesn't appear to be very much wear on the parts.
Image
The base and cover of the pump have almost no wear at all.
Image

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The center of the pump has some light scoring but I don't think its enough to be concerned with.
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One thing I did notice when I got the pump out is there wasn't an o-ring on the suction side of the pump. I looked in the parts manual and the service manual and it appears that there isn't one as far as I can tell although there is a groove where one could be. Should I put one in there just to be safe?

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Jds
40C crawler
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Re: 2010 hydraulic issue

Post by Jds » Fri Aug 10, 2018 7:11 am

So I've been getting some work done on the old crawler. I got the pump back together and put an oring on the inlet of the pump. I also pulled the screen back out just to check it again. While it was out I took a peak inside the housing for the screen and noticed it didn't look right. After fighting with it for awhile I managed to get it out of the transmission, this is what it looked like.
Image
So I beat it back close to round and welded up the tears. When I put it in there's no way to get it reattached to the intake tube that draws oil from the speed change compartment. I've ran it some more since getting it together and it's still working great on flat ground or downill but go up hill and the hydraulics start to get jumpy or stop working altogether. My thinking is that the oil goes to the rear of the case and now that the intake tube isn't sealed to the filter housing it starts sucking air from the front of the case where the filter housing is located, does this make since to anyone else? If that is the case I have to tear the transmission apart to fix it :cry:

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