jd420 pics

[dtoots1]

Well Folks,

Was finally able to get back on the 420..had to remove my center housing (no reverser) because i neglected to put the woodruff key in the hollow shaft to the clutch pedal....this thing can give you the willys....the woodruff key is really special..i actually picked one up at ACE Hardware....5/32x 3/4 long
but had to grind it down for height...only needs approximately 1/4 inch height....rides kinda on the solid brake shaft pins in slot on hollow shaft and has locking slot in pedal clamp....now as far as getting dam center housing back in and bolts lining up for the bellhousing, that is another story...tighten...loosen....some more and some more...use deadblow few times and even get hydraulic jack on rear drawbar to get nose down a bit...and keep tighten ....loosen some more....finally it lines up enough to get started and move each a bit and tighten a bit and finally get er done.

now i gotta get on the steering clutches etc and get that back on...;.;then on to the engine etc etc etc....dash,,wiring
will see how it goes..

[Jim B]

Your gaining, keep swinging.

[dtoots1]

Well guys,

I am back to engine....it is now installed....am now at TDC #1...both valves..closed...so i check flywheel timing mark is at TDC...now check distributor and rotor is pointing directly at the #1 spark plug contact?????....flywheel is NOT at the SPARK timing mark.

So what does that tell me....Is my distributor out 180 degrees??...next 180 turn would be at the exhaust stroke...would it not??? Or do i need to turn the full 360 degrees to get to compression? My impression is if both valves closed that is compression stroke.

Remember this was not running when i got it/...head was warped...not telling what P.O. might have tried to get back running...

Been a bit long since i had to start from scratch..

[dtoots1]

Also,

Forgot to go into the final installation...it was relatively easier than removing the blamed thing...l..is really a pain trying to line it up and get directed into the carrier tube without damaging the blamed thing...once its lined up it does go a bit better.....however....i did need to use deadblow on the housing to keep it moving as it appeared to be catching the NEW brake band and i did not want to just jam the thing in using the bolts/nuts to pull as not knowing what catching or breaking....dead blow moves it just enough to get more threads on bolts without all the pressure from just driving them in.

Sure will be interesting to see if everything works properly...once i get engine going....

[Jim B]

Good to hear you are still working on your project.

You are ok with the rotor pointing at #1 when the flywheel is at TDC, that is the static timing, which should be right to get it started. Instead of the manual saying you should see x number of degrees advance at high idle (when using a timing light) as many manuals do, JD wrote the "spark" mark should be in the timing window when checked with a timing light at high idle. That is moved into view by the mechanical advance mechanism inside the distributor working when running up to speed. You should see the movement if you watch the timing marks with a timing light as you throttle from idle to full throttle, if the advance is working correctly. If the marks don't move as the speed changes you can have the opportunity to check out distributor rebuilding. With the engine running at high idle adjust the distributor to align the "spark" mark in the window and lock the distributor down to complete setting the timing. Don't worry if the rotor points a bit differently at #1 when you look at it after you set the timing with a light.

Keep moving forward.
Jim

[dtoots1]

Hi Jim,

Unfortunately I do NOT possess a timing light and never used one.., usually do this old school but it has been a bit long in the tooth since last from scratch.
I do have a meter that has a setting for 4 ..6.. and 8 cylinder timing...which i have not used as yet...again not sure how it would work for 2 cylinder ....though i do know that timing lights are a bit simpler..

[Jim B]

A timing light is simple to use and quick. Is there an O'Reilly, Advanced or other parts store near you? Some of them, maybe the one where you normally get your parts, have tool rental/loan programs, so you could get a timing light and return it, often at no cost. I don't think your meter will check the advance and set timing, it sounds more like you have a dwell tach meter.

[sonny]

Dwell meter wont work on 2 cylinder motors! --- only 4 - 6- or 8! Regular timing light works on all.

[dtoots1]

Sonny,
Found out that ...self contained units w/d cells will work on 2 and 3 cyl models....as are only 6 volt systems on these....though i do know can use later models with 12 volt battery side saddle to the 6 volt, will see once i can get the dry cell timing light.

Though i do know it gonna be hassle to see the timing mark....mine is loader with the 2 crossover metal hydraulics going right over the timing hole!

Half my wire were broken loose on engine end and the dash itself had been broken of along with its wiring....parts manual so far shows pics/breakdowns of parts etc...but does not show connections...locations etc...will research more on all that...working this long weekend on the old girl...getting there..slowly

HAPPY THANKSGIVING >>>YA'LL