1959 440ic timing marks and points setting

[59CRAWLERTANK]

Good evening, I have a 1959 440ic that we use on the farm it’s been sitting for a few months and wont start so I started doing a little trouble shooting and found it putting out what I feel is a weak spark. Put new points condenser and coil in today and seems like it’s getting better fire than before but still won’t even hit with a shot of starting fluid in the cylinders. I set the number one piston (cylinder closest to the radiator) at TDC compression stroke and set the points at 0.022. Still not even a hit. If it’s getting fuel, fire, and air it has to run right? Right? I’m a little confused by the info I have from one of the manuals and from what I’ve found researching on the timing marks on the flywheel I can see DC I’m assuming is TDC, and SPARK. I guess what I’m asking is do I need to have TDC or SPARK showing through the peep hole on the flywheel when I set the points? This machine has run great the 2 years I’ve had it. The distributor is still tight and hasn’t moved. I feel like I’ve exhausted my research and hope someone here can help me that has more time turning wrenches on these things than me.

[gus]

New plugs, rotor, cap and wires? I once had a bad condenser (new) that put out a week spark. Also had moisture in the cap/rotor.
Positive that wires to the plugs didn't get crossed??

[59CRAWLERTANK]

Forgot to mention put new plugs in as well, yea plug wires are correct location.

[original possum]

Set your points when they are at maximum open, i.e. when they are at the "point" of the distributor cam lobe.

[59CRAWLERTANK]

Set your points when they are at maximum open, i.e. when they are at the "point" of the distributor cam lobe.

So I should t have to worry about the dc or spark marks on the flywheel correct?

[59CRAWLERTANK]

New plugs, rotor, cap and wires? I once had a bad condenser (new) that put out a week spark. Also had moisture in the cap/rotor.
Positive that wires to the plugs didn't get crossed??

They didn’t have a new cap or wires when I got the points and stuff maybe that will be my next try, replaced rotor about a year ago it looked fine but might get a new one just because and try it as well. I’m getting light with a spark tester hooked to the plug wires and the plug.

[JAJ]

Not sure where you purchased your new points but if they came from Deere “BEWARE”!! The dealer I deal with admitted JD was currently having issues with their points. I tried three different sets and they all burned at one corner edge. I’m talking burned in less than five minutes of run time. Total misalignment of contact surfaces. Stoned the surfaces and tried to bend the stationary post to better align the contacts. Still burned. All three sets same ole crap!!
JD said the contact surfaces were made of junk material. I went to NAPA and looked at what they had and at least the contacts were in alignment! I purchased them and on the way home I decided to go with Pertronix electronic ignition. Worked great on my 1010 so why not?? I will keep the NAPA set just in case.
$180.00 plus new spark plug wires and it runs 10X better than it had the past 25 years. Starts great in February in Michigan!!!
Word of caution if you decide on Pertronix’s >> they sent me a bad magnet sleeve that gets pressed done onto the vertical cam shaft this piece makes and breaks the spark (think points). I chased my tail for awhile then called them and they sent a new sleeve. Same damn thing. Then I got a guy at customer service that said they were having issues with the small magnets which are imbedded in the magnet sleeve. They were being installed with the magnetic N & S being basacwards. I already said more than I know about that. But they sent me two more new sleeves that work great. Now I have a spare magnet sleeve.
So, it’s not just JD that is selling brand new junk!!
JUST SAYING!!!
JAJ

[59CRAWLERTANK]

Not sure where you purchased your new points but if they came from Deere “BEWARE”!! The dealer I deal with admitted JD was currently having issues with their points. I tried three different sets and they all burned at one corner edge. I’m talking burned in less than five minutes of run time. Total misalignment of contact surfaces. Stoned the surfaces and tried to bend the stationary post to better align the contacts. Still burned. All three sets same ole crap!!
JD said the contact surfaces were made of junk material. I went to NAPA and looked at what they had and at least the contacts were in alignment! I purchased them and on the way home I decided to go with Pertronix electronic ignition. Worked great on my 1010 so why not?? I will keep the NAPA set just in case.
$180.00 plus new spark plug wires and it runs 10X better than it had the past 25 years. Starts great in February in Michigan!!!
Word of caution if you decide on Pertronix’s >> they sent me a bad magnet sleeve that gets pressed done onto the vertical cam shaft this piece makes and breaks the spark (think points). I chased my tail for awhile then called them and they sent a new sleeve. Same damn thing. Then I got a guy at customer service that said they were having issues with the small magnets which are imbedded in the magnet sleeve. They were being installed with the magnetic N & S being basacwards. I already said more than I know about that. But they sent me two more new sleeves that work great. Now I have a spare magnet sleeve.
So, it’s not just JD that is selling brand new junk!!
JUST SAYING!!!
JAJ

Thank you for the info, I noticed the point contacts were not exactly aligned on the set we put in as well but they come from the auto parts store not jd, now days there’s a good chance most are made at the same factory anyway. Me and my dad were talking this morning about just switching over to electronic instead of points system to eliminate some of the variables possibly. I will keep the magnet problem in mind if we go that route thank you again for your time it’s greatly appreciated.

[original possum]

The spark mark on the flywheel was to show with a timing light while the engine was running. A volt-ohm meter will show if the points are making good contact. Should show zero resistance immediately when closed.

[59CRAWLERTANK]

The spark mark on the flywheel was to show with a timing light while the engine was running. A volt-ohm meter will show if the points are making good contact. Should show zero resistance immediately when closed.

Thanks will check it with multimeter first chance I get.