Sizing battery

[old dutchmen]

I need a new battery for my 1959 JD440 crawler. What is the recommended minimum required cold cranking amps?

[Jim B]

When you start a post besides saying your 440 crawler, you really should tell us which 440 you are asking about, the 440IC or the 440ICD. The battery requirements are different. I looked at your past posts and I am guessing this is a 440ICD from your previous posts.

The parts catalog calls out a 180-amp hour battery. That appears to be a BCI group 4D and could have up to 1400 CCA. I don't know for certain that was the original battery group and haven found that called out online thus far. What group battery do you have in it now? Does it fill the battery box? I use a different approach. I want the biggest battery that will fit in the box with the highest CCA I can get, not the minimum required. I am installing BCI (Battery Council International) group 31 batteries in most of my equipment and that is what I would use if it will fit. They are available with top posts or 3/8 threaded studs. They have from 775 to 1100 CCA depending on the one chosen; the ones I get are generally 925-950 CCA. I believe others here have installed Group 31s in their 440ICDs.

Here is a link to the BCI battery dimensions and terminal arrangements that may help you.

BCI battery size chart

[old dutchmen]

Thank you for the reply. After my post I realized I should have included more information. I have a 1959 JD440 diesel with a 12 volt system. I have the GM diesel engine. The original battery box was rusted away when I got this loader in 1982. I currently use a battery with 1100 cca. I have the original manuals that are very detailed with all the parts break-down drawings, but I could not find any information on the original battery specifications

[Jim B]

Here is a link to the page in the online parts catalog for the 440ICD where I found the 180ah rating for the battery.

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sid ... Id/1033127

Using the BCI information the 180 ah leads to a BCI group 4D (490 to 1400 CCA) for a 12-volt battery. A John Deere dealer might be able to cross the OEM number of AT12052T, which the catalog indicates was used with the 831 loader equipped crawlers, which it sounds like you have. Lavoy might know the correct replacements for those part numbers.

Given you are currently using a battery with 1100 CCA you are within the upper part of the CCA range for a group 4D battery. Are you having starting issues? Two 800 + CCA batteries hooked up in parallel would likely be less expensive than the top end 4D and will give more cranking amps. Your cables need to be 2/0 or heavier to take advantage of high CCA.

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

Just for future folks looking for a Gas engine battery, go to a JD Ag dealer and get a Strongbox Group 1 six volt battery. They have always done a fine job for me. I had to put on in my M this spring as the old one was only 10 years old. Now, if only I can get my diesel engine batteries to live that long....

Stan

[old dutchmen]

Hello,
I never have an issue starting the diesel engine during the warmer months but when it drops below 30 degrees it can be a challenge to start. Thanks for the idea of using to batteries in parallel. I didn't think of that solution.

Thanks
Gene

[Jim B]

If you keep it in a location with power, a block heater or other coolant heater saves starters, batteries, and is generally easier on the engine in my opinion. A couple hours on a heater makes life simpler. I use timers on the ones I know I am going to want to start when I go out in the morning, such as my plow truck when it is storming overnight. This morning it was 3F and a couple hours with a 1000-watt tank heater on the 2030 diesel had the temp gauge starting up the scale. hit the key and it was going.

[old dutchmen]

Jim,
Can you give me information on a block heater or coolant heating system because that would surely solve my issue. I keep my crawler in an unheated pole building. It is sealed up against the weather and I have power available.
Thanks!
Gene

[old dutchmen]

Has anyone used a magnetic block heater on a JD440 diesel engine? If so, how did it work and how many watts was it? Are there any potential problems or issues with a magnetic block heater?
Thanks

[Jim B]

They need a good flat surface on the water jacket area to help warm coolant. I don't think there is a good place on an old Jimmie to put one. They can help with the oil if you put one on the oil pan. And they are not very efficient for coolant but can help with the engine and hydraulic oils, in my opinion.

I have been using Kat's # 13100 aluminum housing 1000-watt, 120-volt heaters. You can get them at about any parts store, eBay, Amazon, etc. Shop and check prices there are some deals out there.

Cold coolant is often tapped into at the block drain. The heated coolant is often returned to the head or on the engine side of the thermostat. They work best as a thermosyphon system cold in low, heated coolant out the top of the heater rising to the point it is sent back into the engine.

The online parts catalog has a drawing of the tank heater and hoses JD used on the 440ICD. Someone with one may see this and be able to tell you the exact tie in points. I can't remember where they are located on your engine.

[old dutchmen]

The Kat''s heater sounds like a good solution. If I understand correctly, it really works on natural convection. Cold coolant enters the Kat thru the bottom port and the heated coolant rises out the top port causing the circulation of the coolant. Correct?
Thanks for sharing this with me.

[Jim B]

Correct

[Lavoy]

From the factory, it probably had 600CCA or maybe a little more, but in that case size, not likely back then. 800CCA would be highly adequate, if the 1000CCA is the same price, I guess why not.
Unless it has had N series pistons put in it, you are lucky it will fire at all at 30 degrees, so you have a good one. Heat is the only way other than ether. The 2-53's, and all the 53's for that matter suffer from hard starting at low temps because they have trouble getting enough heat from cranking to fire.
Magnetic heaters are a joke, you will be able to hold you hand next to the heater and not feel any heat. Block heater is the best, thank heater works great too, just uses more watts to do the job. My preference is a block heater, and a silicone pad heater on the oil pan. If you are running the correct oil in your engine, it should be 30wt or 40wt and they are kind of stiff at cold temps. These engine "suck" the oil up a tube as the oil pump is on the crankshaft, not immersed in the oil pan, so the thicker the oil, the longer it takes to suck it up to the pump.
I was making up block heater kits, but I think I am out of adapters, although you can just weld a bung in you existing plate, and I should have heaters on hand.
Lavoy

[old dutchmen]

I run 30 weight oil in my engine. I would like more info on your block heating kit. I did not understand what the adapter is or what is the "bung on the existing plate" mentioned in your post. I can weld so that would not be an issue. I appreciate any help you can supply. Thanks.

[Lavoy]

On the LH front side of the block or head, there is a football shaped plate with 2 bolts, and maybe a drain cocktail in it. I have a plate and a heater that goes in there, but had trouble threading the plates, so I quit making them.
Lavoy