Detroit Diesel assembly steps
- BKahler
- 440 crawler
- Posts: 175
- Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2005 9:38 pm
- Location: Richmond, Kentucky
- Contact:
Detroit Diesel assembly steps
I've finally got my shop cleaned up and reorganized enough that I can start assembling my 440 crawlers 2-53 engine.
I've been browsing through the service manuals, both the JD version and the DD version and I've noticed that they don't really describe or suggest a specific order of assembly. The manuals cover each section of the engine but don't go into detail as to whether the crank goes in before the cam, etc.
I'm not a total novice when it comes to engine building, I've rebuilt a Case 188 diesel, and a half dozen or more Triumph sports car engines. For each of those engines the service manuals suggested or described specific steps to take during the assembly process.
Anyone have any suggested order of assembly for the 2-53? I don't need any real detail information just an order of how things should go back together. I could always just start putting it together but I'm hoping to avoid any pitfalls along the way.
Thanks!
Brad
I've been browsing through the service manuals, both the JD version and the DD version and I've noticed that they don't really describe or suggest a specific order of assembly. The manuals cover each section of the engine but don't go into detail as to whether the crank goes in before the cam, etc.
I'm not a total novice when it comes to engine building, I've rebuilt a Case 188 diesel, and a half dozen or more Triumph sports car engines. For each of those engines the service manuals suggested or described specific steps to take during the assembly process.
Anyone have any suggested order of assembly for the 2-53? I don't need any real detail information just an order of how things should go back together. I could always just start putting it together but I'm hoping to avoid any pitfalls along the way.
Thanks!
Brad
I don't know that engine, so this is just general advice.
There is no wrong way to assemble an engine so long as one assembly step does not interfere with a step not yet done. However, this is how I like to assemble engines (checking for correct fit of parts as you go along; don't depend on the machine shop to get it right!).
Start by blowing air through oil passages in block and crankshaft to make sure each one is open. If there is a blockage, it is better to find out now than after you start it up! Also, all bearing surfaces must be clean enough to eat off of.
If camshaft bushings aren't yet installed in the block and you don't have a camshaft bushing installation tool, have the machine shop do this.
With the block upside down on its deck or an engine stand, install all upper (block side) crank bearing shells. Lubricate with clean gear oil or assembly grease and set crankshaft straight down. Put lower shells in bearing caps, lube, and install each one in its correct location. The thrust bearing must be aligned at this point; the service manual should explain how. Lube fastener threads and tighten all caps evenly to snugness. Torque to spec and check for free rotation of crankshaft.
Then I like to turn the block up on its flywheel end, supported so the crankshaft is not resting on anything and can still turn, for piston installation. First all piston and rod assemblies are put together with rings and bearing shells. Oil cylinder walls and piston rings, lube bearing shell, install using ring compressor and tapping piston in with end of a wooden hammer handle and that crankshaft throw at the bottom. Put bearing shell in the cap that goes to that rod, lube threads and bearing shell and install snugly, make sure crank still rotates, torque to spec. Repeat for each rod.
With the bottom end done after installing the oil pump (prime the pump with oil first) and any other parts, I go ahead and install the oil pan to keep oil in and dirt out, and set the block upright. Lube camshaft bushings and install camshaft, then the timing gears or whatever's under the front cover, and the front cover itself. Also the rear cover or rear main seal and install flywheel.
Finally, clean block and head decks and install cylinder head(s), followed by the remainder of the valvetrain and button it up.
There is no wrong way to assemble an engine so long as one assembly step does not interfere with a step not yet done. However, this is how I like to assemble engines (checking for correct fit of parts as you go along; don't depend on the machine shop to get it right!).
Start by blowing air through oil passages in block and crankshaft to make sure each one is open. If there is a blockage, it is better to find out now than after you start it up! Also, all bearing surfaces must be clean enough to eat off of.
If camshaft bushings aren't yet installed in the block and you don't have a camshaft bushing installation tool, have the machine shop do this.
With the block upside down on its deck or an engine stand, install all upper (block side) crank bearing shells. Lubricate with clean gear oil or assembly grease and set crankshaft straight down. Put lower shells in bearing caps, lube, and install each one in its correct location. The thrust bearing must be aligned at this point; the service manual should explain how. Lube fastener threads and tighten all caps evenly to snugness. Torque to spec and check for free rotation of crankshaft.
Then I like to turn the block up on its flywheel end, supported so the crankshaft is not resting on anything and can still turn, for piston installation. First all piston and rod assemblies are put together with rings and bearing shells. Oil cylinder walls and piston rings, lube bearing shell, install using ring compressor and tapping piston in with end of a wooden hammer handle and that crankshaft throw at the bottom. Put bearing shell in the cap that goes to that rod, lube threads and bearing shell and install snugly, make sure crank still rotates, torque to spec. Repeat for each rod.
With the bottom end done after installing the oil pump (prime the pump with oil first) and any other parts, I go ahead and install the oil pan to keep oil in and dirt out, and set the block upright. Lube camshaft bushings and install camshaft, then the timing gears or whatever's under the front cover, and the front cover itself. Also the rear cover or rear main seal and install flywheel.
Finally, clean block and head decks and install cylinder head(s), followed by the remainder of the valvetrain and button it up.
I have taken apart and assembled many Detroit's and it really is an easy motor to work on .I did about 6 of the 12V71s one winter and I could nearly do it in the pitch black when I was finishing up .Any body out there know who's design GM bought for this 2 stroke engine design .And when they bought the rights to create Detroit Diesel ?.I found a full page on this the other day .See if I can find it again .Digitup.
- JD440ICD2006
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 1113
- Joined: Tue Aug 22, 2006 3:57 pm
- Location: South Carolina
Digitup, I would enjoy seeing that information about the GM 2 stroke diesels.
I am going to be rebuilding my GM 2-53 this winter also. I have decent mechanic skills, and I have a good friend that is an auto mechanic by trade and has rebuilt many gas engines.
He says he has never been in to a diesel, especially a 2 stroke. Is there anything unique or different to watch out for? Do we need any special tools other than what we normally need for rebuilds?
Thanks,
Chuck W.
I am going to be rebuilding my GM 2-53 this winter also. I have decent mechanic skills, and I have a good friend that is an auto mechanic by trade and has rebuilt many gas engines.
He says he has never been in to a diesel, especially a 2 stroke. Is there anything unique or different to watch out for? Do we need any special tools other than what we normally need for rebuilds?
Thanks,
Chuck W.
1959 JD 440ICD w/64 Power Angle Tilt Blade
1959 JD 440ICD w/63 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 440IC w/602 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 730D W SE (many options)
1950 JD M S w/M-20 Mower
1952 JD M W
1955 FORD 640 (burns the most fuel)
1959 JD 440ICD w/63 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 440IC w/602 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 730D W SE (many options)
1950 JD M S w/M-20 Mower
1952 JD M W
1955 FORD 640 (burns the most fuel)
Thought i would throw in my 2 cents. The oil pump on the 53 series are on the front of the engine so make sure the back lash is good on the gears, and pre oil with heavier oil so on start up it's not dry and will make sure you get oil pressure faster. also make sure that your gears on the front and back of the engine are in time by the dots on the gears..
2 cylce
2 cylce
Valves and injectors. If the injectors are worn the engine will run poorly or overfuel and overheat a cylinder which can make a real mess of the piston. Due to the high compression ratio if valves are too far in their seats it will throw off the compression enough to affect how well the engine runs, or if the valves stick out too much from their seats the piston will smack them.JD440ICD2006 wrote:He says he has never been in to a diesel, especially a 2 stroke. Is there anything unique or different to watch out for? Do we need any special tools other than what we normally need for rebuilds?
2 stroke should have an air passage below the coolant passage around the cylinders and air ports that are uncovered when the piston bottoms out, rather than having intake ports and valves in the head. Nothing to worry about, I don't think.
Only special tool I can think of is injector puller. But then again I am only half awake at this time.
shouldn't need an injector puller, the injector should just pull out after the retaner is removed. you do need a tool to set the injector hight or in other words how far the injector is pushed down by the rocker arm, if injector is pushed down to far it will wreck the barrel inside the injector.
2cycle
2cycle
For all you that are wondering about Detroit Diesels earlier years .Seams Charles f Kettering(G.Ms chief engineer1920-1947 )always had an interest in diesel power .And one day he met at the Detroit yacht club a man by the name of Alexander Winton .Alexander owned the Winton Diesel Engine Co in Detroit Mi and Cleveland Oh .He had made diesel engines for the Marine industry .Light and powerful was his goal so two stroke fit the bill perfectly.Kettering purchased an engine installed it in his yacht and was totally amazed with the power .One day in office conversation with his boss Alfred P Sloan he jokingly mentioned that this motor was powerful and light .Sloan went for a ride the next day and was so impressed that he bought the Winton Co within days .Sloan knew that this power in a truck would put GM up in the truck market .And so it did GM bought this in 1929 a week into the crash of the stock markets .By 1930 Sloan also purchased the other end of the Winton empire .Electro Motive Engineering became part of the General Motors group (Locomotive Devision ).As large as these groups were at that time market annalists told Sloan not to purchase these as it was a poor risk . By 1987 Detroit Diesel had built some 111 million power units and had delivered over 770'000 units during WW2 alone .Detroit Diesels joint ventures started with the 60 series engine .John Deere was a 50-50 partner in this but sold out to Detroit as the 60 series engine would be to expensive to produce in 1987 . since then Perkins -Daimler Chrysler Volvo and Volkswagen to name just a few have joint ventured with them . Seams one boat ride can launch many great ideas and that is how Detroit Diesel got its roots .I hope that you find this information interesting as I did. Digitup.
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