JD 1010c won`t start-please help

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roofdog
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JD 1010c won`t start-please help

Post by roofdog » Sun Sep 23, 2007 1:41 pm

i have put new plugs,wires,points & condensor new gaskets in the carb,new wires to the starter and it still won`t start,its a 4 cylinder gas engine, i think the spark looks weak and for some reason i think its not getting gas to the plugs theres plenty of gas in the carb i`ve tried starting fluid,is there anything i can do to get the gas to the plugs,any help would be appreicated

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Davie Sprocket
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Post by Davie Sprocket » Sun Sep 23, 2007 6:52 pm

You probly did these but:

- retime
- check gaps - plugs,points
- check spark at plugs
- if fuel is an issue make sure the feed line is running fuel nd that the sediment bowl is clean.
- take the air cleaner off, so the carb is open to air
- then MAKE SURE YOU HAVE GOOD FUEL, i mean this for two weeks i tried to get mine running and it was the gas was bad, i had to use liquid fire to start it but once i got fuel flowing good she starts on a dime. I did basically everything you did and in the end it was bad fuel.

Hope you get her going its starting to get cold out, have a good one.

Dave

roofdog
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Post by roofdog » Mon Sep 24, 2007 2:43 pm

thanks Dave,next weekend when i go to the cabin i will try new gas in the bowl and tank,i`m also thinking i might need a bigger battery,i skimped and replaced the old battery with a smaller one,not sure if that would help suck the gas to the cylinders,i have tried everything you said except the gas.

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Tigerhaze
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Post by Tigerhaze » Mon Sep 24, 2007 3:28 pm

You might want to lightly tap the carburator housing with a hammer a couple of times. I haven't seen a carb on a 1010 gas up close, but I have owned other tractors where the float got stuck and it cranked without firing until the float was unstuck by the hammer taps.

I would try that before you go to a lot of trouble with the timing and all, although float sticking indicates you may need to clean the carb itself. Just a thought.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment

roofdog
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Post by roofdog » Mon Sep 24, 2007 3:43 pm

the carb was rebuilt and cleaned this spring,new gaskets and float spring,i can see the gas when i take the air filter off,i couldn`t adjust the load needle till it would run,it did run for 2 minutes since the cleaned carb was installed.

Howard Yoder
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Post by Howard Yoder » Mon Sep 24, 2007 5:50 pm

Take the plugs out squirt a little gas in each one and if it runs then you know it is a gas problem.

roofdog
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Post by roofdog » Tue Sep 25, 2007 2:15 pm

thanks Howard,i have tried putting gas in 1 plug at a time,but that didn`t work,never thought of putting gas in all 4 at one time,i`ll give that a try.
should of been a mechanic NOT a Roofer

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Pammark
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Won't Start

Post by Pammark » Fri Sep 28, 2007 6:09 pm

When you said the spark was weak, it sounds like your starter has some age on it. Sometime they pull so much current, there is none left for the ignition. One way to test this is to hook a pair of jumper cables right to the coil from another battery or car. The small wire going to the distributor is ground. Make sure you have the polarity correct. The coil may be labeled as + and - or "bat" for battery etc. Connect the ground to any bolt or engine ground and the Hot to the battery side of the coil. If there is no marking on the coil, hook the HOT terminal to the post opposite to the one connected to the distributor.

After the engine is running, disconnect the jumper. If this works, then check to see if the starter might need rebuilt. It just might be robbing all the current to turn the engine over.


Mark
JD 2010 Crawler with Loader

roofdog
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Post by roofdog » Sat Sep 29, 2007 4:33 am

That sounds like part of my problem too Mark,when i try cranking it over for a couple minutes(does turn at first),several times,then the starter won`t even turn,i think it gets overheated,i replaced the small wires to the starter and not from the generator or the coil,which looks like it was broke and then they tied it in a knot,thanks Mark
should of been a mechanic NOT a Roofer

roofdog
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Post by roofdog » Thu Oct 11, 2007 2:03 pm

found great price to rebuild JD 1010 starter:http://nasyard.com/starters/DELCO_10MT_ ... T_IND.html
should of been a mechanic NOT a Roofer

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Bret4207
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Post by Bret4207 » Sat Nov 17, 2007 7:26 pm

My 1010 needs new plugs, or at least clean, dry plugs every time I use it. The darn Champions foul out in an instant. Autolites last longer. Might be something to think about. I also have to tap the bowl sometimes to get fuel flowing.

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FarmLife
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Post by FarmLife » Sat Nov 17, 2007 8:49 pm

before you go to replace your starter, check the resistance on your battery cables and connections. They should be under one or two ohms of resistance. This can give you the same symptoms, if the cables are getting overly hot then they have too much internal resistance and that can suck all your cranking power. Battery cables are always cheaper than a starter rebuild.
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Stretch
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Post by Stretch » Sun Nov 18, 2007 7:02 am

The best way to check your battery cables is to take a digital volt meter and check the voltage drop on the cables while cranking. Hook one lead to post on battery and other to post on starter. Observe reading while cranking. This will check connections and the cable. Also check the ground cable the same way.
If starter needs rebuilt it shouldn't be over $65.00. That would be testing the armature, turning the armature, new bushings, new brushes, and a new solenoid. I rebuild starters all the time for a lot of the farmers and truckers around here and I try to give them a break. You should be able to find a good independent rebuilder around you that will do the same. If you have a problem finding one let me know and I can access ERA and find one for you.
Hope this helps.

Stretch
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If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer.

ron in coudy
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Post by ron in coudy » Wed Dec 05, 2007 12:14 pm

did you get this running yet? If not, turn the carb adjusting screw (the big one towards the front of the tractor) all the way in and turn out 2 full turns. Mine did the same thing, that cured it, after it starts, then you can tweak it

sam1
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Post by sam1 » Sat Aug 23, 2008 12:37 pm

Thanks for leads guys

I had allready changed the negititve battery cable because it was frayed and now I have looked at the postitive and found some bear spots also the advace is a little sticky so I'll try these. Machine runs well when not moving. Any comments on Zeith carbs are these an improvment?



Thanks for the help its running better but not able to work

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