jd 2010 running issues

winnerjd2010 · Post by **winnerjd2010** » Sat Oct 23, 2010 2:55 pm

still havin issues. followed the manual on the pump step by step and cannot remove the hydraulic head assembly....any one have any advice?

jdemaris · Post by **jdemaris** » Sat Oct 23, 2010 6:11 pm

winnerjd2010 wrote:still havin issues. followed the manual on the pump step by step and cannot remove the hydraulic head assembly....any one have any advice?

I can't tell from here what you've done, or haven't done. The head & rotor assembly is held to the pump-housing with three screws. Two have hex-heads (take an 1/2" or 9/16" wrench. The other has a splined-head and a standard 7/16" or 1/2" 12 point socket will fit it. The head-screw (for timing-advance pivot) also had to come out eventually, along with other small parts.

If you have all the screws out and nothing feels loose, chances are the old o-ring is stuck, and you've just got to work it apart. It is a tight fit, old or new.

winnerjd2010 · Post by **winnerjd2010** » Sun Oct 24, 2010 7:41 am

Thanks JDEMARIS
I took all those bolts out, but the head seems really tight. I hate to force it and break something else(already broke the shut off cam and one of the mounting ears). I would think that if it were an o ring there would be a little play but I am open to any suggestions. Thanks

winnerjd2010 · Post by **winnerjd2010** » Wed Nov 03, 2010 6:42 pm

Ok. got the pump apart and things went smooth replacing the seal and putting the pump back together. Problem now is I cannot get fuel to the injectors. I believe I have everything together right. Is there a specific way to prime the pump other than turning the engine over. I have flow to the transfer pump, but nothing is happening after that. One thing I need to check is the allen head set screw that sits on top of the metering valve; I read that if it is not installed right, it will not work. Any suggestions on priming the pump or common mistakes made reassembling a Roosa Master pump? Starting to get frustrated:(

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Thu Nov 04, 2010 9:11 am

You probably have seen JDemaris's previous posts about the DB pumps on 2010s- they are designed to be self bleeding so if the metering valve is on it should eventually start. Look 1/2 way down the thread:

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... ction+pump

I am assuming that you bled the fuel filter setup and each injector- that will help get it started quicker.

winnerjd2010 · Post by **winnerjd2010** » Thu Nov 04, 2010 7:47 pm

thanks for the info. Ive cranked the engine for probably 20minutes with the injector lines cracked and couldnt get any flow to the injectors, after I bled the filters. So I used the cold start primer and some ether to see if I could get it to run that way to help the pump prime with no luck(glow plugs are bad), If I can get her running again Im going to replace the glow plugs but I want to make sure I can get her running again before I put more money in it. Maybe I should pull the governor cover to make sure the linkage is correct, even though Im pretty sure I got that right. Ive tried to prime it 2 different days now and Im just a little unsure of myself reassembling the pump, I have the manual thanks to JDMARIS and followed it. But ignorance costs money and I cant afford to be stupid. Any hints or clues as to what to check for would be greatly appreciated.

Stretch · Post by **Stretch** » Fri Nov 05, 2010 4:58 am

I have flow to the transfer pump

What is it that you are calling the transfer pump?
On my 2010 it is gravity fed to filters and goes straight from the filters to the injection pump. Are you sure you are getting fuel to the injection pump?

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Fri Nov 05, 2010 9:25 am

One other hint- the engine will be really hard to start after introducing air unless you can get the engine to turn over quickly and build compression. if you have a weak starter, it will not turn over quickly enough to reliably start. I noticed after replacing my starter that it would start much more quickly. Just a thought.

winnerjd2010 · Post by **winnerjd2010** » Tue Nov 09, 2010 12:16 pm

Transfer pump is built into top of the injector pump. Starter is strong, battery is brand new but loses juice after cranking for a while.

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Tue Nov 09, 2010 12:29 pm

These engines won't readily fire if glow plugs aren't operting, even in warm weather. The glow plugs are really pretty cheap. Also it really helps to pull the HLR disconnect lever so the engine will rotate even more rapidly. Just two additional thoughts for you.

If you need additional input on the injector pump rebuild, you may need to track down Jdemaris.

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Tue Nov 09, 2010 4:53 pm

But ignorance costs money and I cant afford to be stupid.

Great statement. Best wishes for getting you machine running soon.

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