1010 Gas - Basket Case?

[Lavoy]

I stock the bushing, and no in my opinion there is no amount of oil acceptable on a clutch disc. They will slip, usually when they get warmer.
Lavoy

[Mikeym70]

Thanks for the advice so far. Im getting a good list around for my final parts orders for different items.

I'm now into my final drives. I have 1 pretty good one and 1 that needs a bunch of help. I have an original casting from my 1010 with the large shaft in the gear that has 2 bolts in the back of the shaft and 8-10 large splines on it. Problem is, the gear and shaft are shot. I have a good gear and shaft from my parts machine, but it's a different style. This one has fine splines and a large nut holding it on at the inside.

Is the fine spline shaft and gear compatible with my housing that originally had a large spline gear and shaft assembly? Reason I ask is my casting is better from original machine, parts machine casting is scrap metal from stress cracks all over it. I'm really hoping they're interchangeable.

[Lavoy]

I do not believe the late shaft will fit in the early housing, but I could be wrong.
Lavoy

[Mikeym70]

Late shaft will not work in early casting due to bearing race placement. With early casting, race is cone pointing in, with late casting race is cone pointing out for the final drive gear shaft bearings.

I'll have to re figure my plans with this final drive. It'll either be welding up a casting, sending a shaft to machine shop, or finding another casting for late model or shaft/gear for early model.

[Lavoy]

I have a late and an early final on hand.
Lavoy

[Mikeym70]

Lavoy, can you please PM price to ship a final to 17701? Also, is it complete and known to have good internals?

I have found a late casting to fit my late gears and shaft, but it's cracked around 2 bolt holes. I think usable, but not the best option.

The other issue I have is the axle shafts are worn around the seal. I did some research on repair sleeves and SKF makes speedy sleeves that are drove onto the damaged axle shaft. I've used these in the trucking industry with really good success. Has anyone ever utilized these repair options on equipment like this and if so, have you been successful? Being how abrasive of a location that the finals are in(dirt from tracks constantly getting in there) I'm not sure if they'd hold up. I'm looking for group feedback if possible.

My parts list is growing.....

[Lavoy]

Mikey,
Give me a call next week we can discuss options on finals, 701-361-1006.
I have used Redi-sleeves for that only a couple times, they either don't work outright, get wrecked in installation, or there is not enough surface underneath due to wear for them to hold. I did get one on once that I liked, installed the outer bearing, and split the sleeve in two because it was too wide and rode up on the flange of the axle.
Lavoy

[Mikeym70]

Ok, reading through multiple posts about oily clutch disks and speaking to Lavoy today about them, I thought I'd see the problem for myself. I had disks that I thought might have oil on them and convinced myself I could save them like all us mechanics have saved countless other parts.

Last week I soaked them in 1 gallon of brake cleaner, wiped dry, then put them in a bucket with oil dry for the week. I'll be honest, they 'looked' pretty darn good and didn't seem to have any oil on them. As a newbie to crawler work, I thought I'd found the golden ticket to saving a few bucks. I then lightly sanded the outside faces just for good measure.

Then I thought about the conversation with Lavoy from earlier in the day. He mentioned that the oil comes out when they get hot from use. So I pulled out my electric heat gun and put serious heat to about 1/4 of the diameter of a disk. Within 60 seconds oil came to the surface of the clutch disk. It wasn't much, but it was oil.

Needless to say I feel a bit defeated. I'll be replacing the disks that had oil on them.

[whiteclipse16]

Has anyone ever tried putting them in an oven with some kind of absorbent material like floor dry? (Not sure how floor dry would do in an oven)
Wonder if there is a way to pull a heavy vacuum on them and "draw" it out of them.

[Lavoy]

For what is a multi hour job, and not fun at all, why is any amount of fooling around worth the risk when you are only saving about $150? Sorry, I guess I have just never understood putting that much work in to trying something that will fail, or at the least will result in a sub-standard clutch.
Lavoy

[Mikeym70]

Lavoy,

I fully agree with you at this point, but some of us have to see it for ourselves. I'm just glad I listened to everyone and mimicked the use the clutch through heat and could visibly see the oil come to the surface of the clutch plate.

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

If someone wanted to try, you need an environmental chamber which is also a pressure chamber. Most are temp only, or temp and humidity. Pressure requires a stronger build than most of these:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/Environmental-C ... =100&rt=nc

And, a vacuum pump.

You can get to 100k feet with one. That ought to make the oil come out.

Still, not worth the time....

Edit: For those not following, the theory is the heat will make the oil flow easier and the low pressure, about 2/10 PSI, will cause the air in the disc (15 PSI) to push the oil out into an absorbent surrounding the disc.

Stan

[shinnery]

And still only get about half the oil each cycle, how many cycles do you want to run?? It gets to be less each time...
Bryce

[whiteclipse16]

I agree with you also Lavoy, it really isn't worth saving the $150. Usually my mind goes back to the $500 per side for a complete rebuild. I tend to forget that fibers only is cheap.
I also just like the challenge of trying something new just to see if it will work. Usually I don't have the extra time or money to "try" these theories so they end up just being ideas that get thrown out there and discussed

[Mikeym70]

I worked this afternoon putting my project 1010 back together. I knew I had hydraulic issues so I pulled the pump off the bracket and took a look. The shaft was sheared right off, so that's why the previous owner said they had no hydraulics. The only way I know a pump will shear a shaft is too much pressure. My unit has a porting block, located above reverser and in front of dash panel, that controls pressure(I think that's what it does anyway). Before I crank this thing over and shear off my replacement pump, Is there a way to check and see if this thing is working right?