1010 Gas - Basket Case?

Mikeym70 · Post by **Mikeym70** » Sat Jun 06, 2015 7:36 pm

Found the cause of the broken hyd pump shaft. A piece of metal got in there and jammed up the gears. I added a couple photos to the earlier photobucket link(located a few posts up). I'm adding a filter on the suction side of the pump to avoid this from happening again.

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Sat Jun 06, 2015 10:01 pm

That will do it alright

Stan Disbrow · Post by **Stan Disbrow** » Sun Jun 07, 2015 4:35 am

Hi,

The next question is: 'a piece of metal from what else do I need to worry about??'.....

Stan

Mikeym70 · Post by **Mikeym70** » Sun Jun 07, 2015 6:04 am

I'm fairly certain I know where the metal came from. At some point in the crawlers life someone bypassed the hydraulic tank and used the hydraulic oil from the reverser for auxiliary system. They put a 'tee' in the drain plug of the reverser and used the return at the reverser oil cooler. When the reverser bearings went out, gravity did its thing and sent the bearing straight to the bottom of the reverser case and into the auxiliary hydraulic system suction line going straight to the pump.

The reason why someone did this is a mystery to me, but I have 2 theories

1- The tank leaked and they didn't want to pull the front of the machine apart to remove tank and repair it. I have since removed the tank and discredited this idea through testing.

2- I found an acorn inside the hydraulic tank when I removed it, which may very well have plugged up the supply line to the pump, starving the system of oil and therefore power.

I'm thinking a nut in the wrong place is the cause of my troubles

I do have to pull all the cylinders apart now thoug h to clean metal shavings out of them. At some point, I'll get to dig a hole with this thing.

Stan Disbrow · Post by **Stan Disbrow** » Sun Jun 07, 2015 1:53 pm

Hi,

Ah. Gotta watch those squirrels. They do get nuts into the strangest places....

Yes, you will get to dig a hole with it, at which point it *will* all be worth the effort!

Stan

Mikeym70 · Post by **Mikeym70** » Tue Jun 09, 2015 12:06 pm

hello,

I'm in need of the clutch adjustment gauge/tool for properly setting up the steering clutches. Lavoy has indicated he is currently out of stock of these(as of last week), and I'm trying to finish up assembly this weekend. Is there anyone out there who knows where else to get one? OR could loan me one that is local to the Williamsport PA area? I would even be willing to pay shipping on one to borrow it and return it as soon as I'm done with it(this weekend).

Any help/advice is appreciated!

Post by **Lavoy** » Tue Jun 09, 2015 1:44 pm

I have gauges on order, may be here yet this week.
Lavoy

Mikeym70 · Post by **Mikeym70** » Sun Jun 14, 2015 5:03 am

I was able to talk the local Deere dealer into letting me borrow the JD7 tool. I've assembled the clutch packs and adjusted the clutch finger height as per the tool and the instructions elsewhere on this site. I assembled the finals into the housings and attempted to adjust the clutch and brake per the service book.

What I'm finding is that I don't have enough adjustment length on the clutch throw out fork to get it to just touch the clutch fingers when I set my free travel at 7/8-1" per the book. If I adjust as much as possible i have several inches of free travel in the levers.

Theory would tell me that as the clutches wear the free travel would be taken up, but it's to a point that I don't think the clutch can be fully disengaged the way it is now, which concerns me for premature wear during the break in period.

Is this normal to start at the long end of the adjustment rod?

original possum · Post by **original possum** » Sun Jun 14, 2015 10:32 am

Sounds like you assembled it by the book, which doesn't show that the first fiber plate goes BEHIND the snap ring.

Post by **Lavoy** » Sun Jun 14, 2015 2:28 pm

If anything gets bent or worn in there, you can run into this problem. I changed my gauges years ago to help alleviate this problem. You may have to get a new adjuster, especially if you have the old 5 piece style.
Lavoy

Mikeym70 · Post by **Mikeym70** » Sun Jun 14, 2015 7:06 pm

I can't see where a fiber would go behind the snap ring on these 1010 clutches. The clutch discs and steel drop in the drum and around the center hub. I have a couple drums and plates sitting around here I'll take a 2nd look at to be sure I have them right. (Good part about buying a parts machine)

I did adjust by the book and it seems to work, by work I mean when I pull either lever the axle quits turning. I just have more free play than I'd like to have, which is telling me the clutch wouldn't fully disengage

Lavoy,

I have 2 different style adjusters here, one has a large connecting but and 2 stop nuts, the other has 1 adjusting but and you spin the coupler for adjustment. Both of these styles give the same adjustment results regardless of side they are installed on.

Mikeym70 · Post by **Mikeym70** » Sun Jun 14, 2015 7:08 pm

Also, the distance on the adjustment tool I had give 1 7/16" from brake/clutch drum to top of clutch fingers where they would hit the tool. If this is not the correct measurement, based on someone measuring their tool, then please let me know.

Thanks - Mike

Post by **Lavoy** » Sun Jun 14, 2015 8:53 pm

No, no snap ring on 1010, they are the same as the 2 cylinders. You are correct in that as the clutch wears, you will lose freeplay. The question is if you want to wait for that to happen. Won't hurt anything, just maybe frustrating.
Lavoy

Mikeym70 · Post by **Mikeym70** » Tue Jul 07, 2015 7:21 pm

While I've rebuilt a good portion of this machine, I failed to recognize the alternator/fan belt was not in the best of shape prior to reassembly(dumb move I know).

My question is: how in the world do I remove the belt without tearing half the front end apart? There has to be a trick here somewhere....

Howard Weeks · Post by **Howard Weeks** » Tue Jul 07, 2015 7:48 pm

I have an old 1010 that needed a new belt a couple years back.

I got it installed by removing an alternator from the right side of the engine
and then busting or removing the center section of the coupler between the
front of the crank and the pump. That allowed just enough room to get the
belt through and on to the crank pulley.

Frustrating but easier than pulling the front off the machine.

Howard in GA

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1010 Gas - Basket Case?

Hydraulic pump

clutch adjustment tool/gauge needed

Clutches - Adjustment

Dumb question considering all the work I've done...

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