1010 Gas - Basket Case?

[Mikeym70]

I’m new to this site and crawler ownership, but have been reading through the early crawler section for technical advice. I'll take a moment to introduce myself and then go into my problem. I can’t thank everyone here enough for the information that is already on here. Lavoy seems more than willing to offer help/services wherever possible, including the maintenance of this site so guys like myself can tinker at home with equipment that our wives will never understand why we want to do it.
I read through quite a bit before purchase and have been reading even more after purchase of a later model John Deere 1010 gas dozer with factory 6 way blade (1964-1965?). I can’t identify exact year as serial # plate is missing on RH side of motor. When I first looked at the unit all appeared well, except lack of steering on the left clutch. Being confident I had the resources available on this site to learn how to repair the steering, I made the purchase. Overall the machine appeared in good shape, with like new undercarriage and a well maintained 6 way blade with factory T handle control. I had looked at other machines and the price/condition of this one seemed in line considering the repairs that I knew it needed at the time.
Being unfamiliar with dozers I didn’t realize a couple other issues with the machine and as such I have a multitude of other problems. This of course was all found after getting the machine home and washing it down prior to planned repair of the steering clutches. I’m confident I can fix it, as I have quite a bit of mechanical ability from working on machinery with a past employer, so I’m not concerned with that ability in the least bit. I have purchased the parts and service manuals for the machine and am following the troubleshooting procedures that are related to my problems.
My issues are listed below and any feedback would be greatly appreciated so I’m sure I’m moving in the right direction and not just throwing parts/labor unnecessarily at the machine.

1. Reverser: I am only getting 60 PSI at the 100 psi pressure check location per the manual. I’ve shimmed the valve with 2 additional shims (4 are in there now) and only increased pressure by 10 psi(went from 50PSI to 60PSI). Is this is a sign of a weak pump, a clogged filter, a restrictor issue or something else? Reverser seems to work, but I haven’t used it to do any dozing with or put it under load. Sitting in garage with finals tore off it goes forward/reverse and did function to load on the trailer during a short trial run at time of purchase. I have not yet checked the 20psi port or the relief valve for the cooler as I saw that unnecessary if the high pressure port isn’t functioning properly.

2. Oil on Steering clutches: I have a large amount of oil on both clutches, this is obviously why it didn’t properly steer. I have both finals off the machine, and it appears like the oil is coming from the rear pinion (out of transmission into clutch housings). Is it likely that this is where it’s coming from? I’ve read quite a few posts stating it typically comes out of the final drives. I plan to put seals in both final drives and re-shim bearings if needed. But I want to be certain the source of the oil is fixed before reassembly.

3. Rear clutch housings are cracked: The crack is at the location where they bolt to the frame. Is this a typical break location? I didn’t notice this when I bought the machine. It appears someone previously welded and has used the machine since. It appears to of had a winch on it at one time, not sure if that added stress to this location from improper winching/abuse. I do hope to install a winch at some point as I will be using the machine for light logging of personal property in the future. Is welding this cast material something that will hold up if done properly and not abused?

I appreciate any/all advice you folks may have for me to keep me pointed in the right direction. I don’t mind the labor aspect of fixing this thing up, but I’m afraid that I’m going to get in pretty deep with parts if I have to get into the reverser for major repairs.

[Lavoy]

I would do a filter and fluid change on the reverser first, then recheck all your pressures.
Yes, normally oil on clutches is coming from pinion shaft in final drive, but carrier seals do leak as well. Now is the time to replace it while you have the finals off, and I would still do the pinion shaft seals while you are in there, and likely new bearings.
I wouldn't call what you have a basket case, just typical of what you see in 50 year old machines.
Lavoy

[Mikeym70]

Filter ordered and I'll pick up a bucket of 303 fluid tomorrow and give it a shot. I'll be needing all the clutch discs, throw out bearings and a handful of seals in the near future, but will hold off ordering those until I have the reverser figured out.

[Tigerhaze]

For a 1010 or 2010 to be considered a "basket case", you typically require shot undercarriage AND worn out engine or transmission/reverser. Like Lavoy said, anything other is just wear and tear

[Mikeym70]

Drained reverser fluid and pulled filter. Upon visual inspection of the reverser pan I Found a few extra parts That I'm sure Deere didn't intend to be there. Looks like a broken snap ring, a bearing cage and about half the bearings that would go with said cage. So I'm thinking I found the cause of the lack of oil pressure in the reverser.

[Paul Buhler]

Welcome to the board and good luck with your repairs. Post some pictures when you can. They are helpful to look at and useful in problem solving.

[Mikeym70]

I'll try to get some pictures up when I get to an actual comfuser to work on, this phone is tough enough for me to use just to type. I did reach my hand up in the reverser and the countershaft front bearing is gone for sure. Someone else has had this thing apart(evident by the blue goop used as gaskets all over the place) so who knows what else I will find. I pulled the nose piece, radiator, starter and other misc items tonight in preparation to lift the engine tomorrow. I'm just hoping my little John Deere 60 skid steer has enough umph to get the job done...

[Mikeym70]

I pulled the engine and reverser tonight.

#1-engine is too much for a john Deere model 60 skid steer.
#2-reverser is almost too much for the same skid steer.

We did get it out though. Someone has been inside this thing before as there is fresh goop on the gaskets and no shims behind any of the quills, so someone didn't have a clue what they were doing. I imagine there hasn't been much run time on it since the attempted rebuild. Having all this apart I can now see the input shaft on transmission has about 1/8"+ end play, so that's going to need some love too. These are all things you can't see when making a purchase.

[Mikeym70]

In an attempt to post photos I've setup a photobucket account and loaded a few pictures of the machine and beginning stages of repair.

http://s288.photobucket.com/user/Mikeym ... t=3&page=1

Please let me know if these work for you, and if so I'll post more photos of some of the items I've run across trying to fix this thing up.

I would also like to thank a fellow member, Andrew from Danville, on helping me out with several of the larger parts I needed. He had a fair price on some of the parts I needed.

I've spent the better part of two weeks tearing down 2 reverser a and making 1 good one. I'm only awaiting a few gaskets from Deere and I can finish that project

I also have the transmission that I'm doing the same with. Problem is, both input shafts have bad roller bearings. This caused wear on the cluster gear of both transmissions I'm hopeful a friend can help me fix these up on a lathe by turning them and installing oversized bearings inside the cluster gear. If not, I have a plan to install an additional bearing and shorten the spacer that separates the bearing. I'll post on my final direction and progress.

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

Quite a project, but it will be worth your effort and cost in the end. I am sure the dozer and the skiddy will become fast friends once you stop trying to lift crawler parts with the skiddy, that is.

And the link to your photo album works fine.

Stan

[Mikeym70]

I finally finished majority of assembly of the reverser tonight. Put air to the 90psi port and spun input shaft by hand, I can feel the clutches engage as I throw the lever from forward to reverse, so I must have done something right!

A few last o rings on the rear quills and I can start putting some of this machine back together!

All bearings and seals are ordered for the transmission. I used Amazon for the majority of my parts(bearings and seals) as they offered best price and I've had really good luck on past projects with their customer service should I have any problems(ordered wrong part, etc). All of the transmission case gaskets were Deere specific.

[wizner85]

Wife is happy a parts crawler is gone. Wife is not happy I used that money to buy another 420 parts crawler (that I hope to get running).

Glad it's coming together.

[Mikeym70]

Started on the transmission tonight. Set the preload on the rear ring gear per the book. Gonna work on power shaft and output shaft tomorrow. The input shaft is out to the machine shop to get the roller bearing journal turned down and sleeved back to the 2.000" factory spec. Should have it back early next week. The work really isn't difficult if you have the book and a few buddies to lift parts and connections to a machine shop.

[Mikeym70]

I'm to where I'm working on some of the misc. items and would like some advice/help on a few odd ball things:

I ended up with a parts machine that had some decent steering clutch plates in it. The one side was simply a bit rusty from moisture. I pulled them apart, cleaned up with a wire brush and am hoping to re-use. Is this a feasible idea?
The other side was slightly oily on the drum. I don't think it's on the fiber disks. I used brake clean on a couple of them and they appear to look like the ones that had rust/moisture on them. Is it worth using these? What happens if their is light oil on them and you try to use them?
clutch housings: 2 of the bolts on my clutch housings(where the final attaches towards the top of the casting) is stripped out. Would a helicoil be enough to fix this? I see McMaster Carr has extra long helicoils(1.25" length) that I thought about using, but am nervous with all the stress in that area. Thoughts?
The brass bushing that the steering lever/rod goes through in the casting is worn, is there a replacement available for this bushing?

Air filter: The air filter I have is an oil bath/screen setup. It's pretty nasty looking and I've already pulled the screen out of it. What is a reasonable replacement for this? Is there a foam filter or something else I can put in there in lieu of the screen?

[jtrichard]

Use carb cleaner on the air screen and reuse...... bushing should be available from JD