JD 1010 diesel crawler engine trouble

Bob-O · Post by **Bob-O** » Thu Nov 12, 2015 9:02 am

I will try the tests that Possum talks about for the reverser and see what happens. I don't think the brakes are sticking because I can put it in nueteral on an incline and the machine will roll very easily and I will have to use the foot brake to stop it. If the reverser does have a problem will damage occure running it with the reverser problem. Reason I ask is I ran the machine for about an hour yesturday moving around a feild trying to figure the problem out.

Stan Disbrow · Post by **Stan Disbrow** » Thu Nov 12, 2015 9:54 am

Hi,

Say, Bob, have you experience with crawlers besides this new-to-you 1010?

I ask because we may all be presuming you know how crawlers drive power differently than wheel tractors. This, in addition to things which are unique to the 1010 series.

I don't want to go into a long powertrain, steering and braking post if you don't need one.

Stan

mini kahuna · Post by **mini kahuna** » Thu Nov 12, 2015 10:00 am

does the machine start pretty easily from cold, if it does I would guess the internals are ok....low compression they crank excessively to start.
you could always rig up a temporary fuel supply direct into your pump to rule out fuel starving.
what will happen if you lift your blade all the way up and cause the hydraulics to bypass....the engine should respond to this load and governor should supply more fuel.
if you can stall the engine with the hydraulics you have fuel supply, injection pump/governor issues.
don't give up, you or someone on the site will get to the bottom of your puzzle.

Bob-O · Post by **Bob-O** » Thu Nov 12, 2015 2:22 pm

Stan, I am new to crawlers and very new to diesel engines. I have operated lots of machinery and worked on alot as well but I am no expert in the sense. I did quite a few years in the timber industry as a professional timber faller but I also ran tracked and wheeled skidders and spent alot of time running a Dan Harko Delimber machine. I can do most of my own mechanic work and am mechanically inclined but I do not know everything and when I was working on these big machines we always had a dedicated mechanic that fixed all the problems. I never got a chance to watch and learn what he was doing because there was the issue of production and if we were not cutting trees, skidding or working the landings we were not making money. I spent the morning checking out the reverser. I took up the left floor plate and found the reverser accumulator and relief valve assemblys. I started the machine and let it warm up for about 15minutes at a llitle more than 1/4 throttle but the two assembly housings never got hot. I looked in the parts book for the hydrolic reverser pump but could not diffinitiveley find it. Is this the same hydrolic pump at the front of the machine under the radiator? this pump never got hot but was slightly warm. When I move the reverser control lever you can hear the engine noise change as it engages and disengages. I also played with it in gear and moved back and forth with no hesitation of engine bogging. I could also get the lever to go into nuetral somewhere in the middle of the lever throw. I honestly don't think this is the problem. The engine will speed up when you lift the front blade all the way till it stops and never boggs down or makes the engine sound like it is overloaded so i don't think it has a IP govornor problem. you can have the machine at idle and use the hydrolics and the motor never acts like it is struggling. Mybe it is a worn out engine but it does not make sense to me. I read a thread talking about the IP and oil pump gears being off but would the engine still run if the gear was a tooth off?

mini kahuna · Post by **mini kahuna** » Thu Nov 12, 2015 3:05 pm

yeah if you can bypass the hydraulics and engine responds, sounds like engine/fuel system are at least trying to do the correct things.
now it sounds like a drive line bind or brakes bands in steering clutches rusted tight or brake linkage staying down.
can you get on an incline and see if she will roll under gravity, in neutral it should roll pretty easily, might want to try and push it with another machine too.
you will get to the cause sooner or later.

Bob-O · Post by **Bob-O** » Thu Nov 12, 2015 3:29 pm

Mini Kahuna, If I get on an incline and push in the clutch or put it in nuetral the machine will take off like it is on ice. I don't feel it is a brake or internal binding issue. I also can not see how the motor could be worn that bad and not have power if the thing does not seem to burn a lick of oil. I wish that when the head was off of it I would have made sure that the pistons were going all the way to the top of the cylinder. When I took the head off it was not on TDC on any of the cylinders and that has me wondering of there is a gap between the piston top and the head. Someone has messed with this engine before because when I had the head rebuilt the machine shop showed me some indentions on the #3 cylinder where at one time the engine had thrown a rod or had a valve break and it pounded the top of the cylinder head. If someone replaced the sleeves with the wrong sleeves, say a gasoline 1010 sleeve would there be a gap or would a gasoline engine sleeve not match up. Aren't the engine blocks the same block on the gas and diesel 1010's. I know the parts manual shows the same con rods for both.

Post by **Lavoy** » Thu Nov 12, 2015 3:48 pm

Blocks are different, sleeve decks are different, pistons are different. I would get the pump checked out first, then you have eliminated that as a potential problem.
Lavoy

Stan Disbrow · Post by **Stan Disbrow** » Thu Nov 12, 2015 3:53 pm

Hi,

The hyd pump on the front is for the attachments. Blade, of course, and if you happened to have rear remote hookups.

If the thing works the blade all the way up until it stops, then there will be a high load on the front hyd pump. The engine is altering its' fuel feed and timing, so for now I think the IP and injectors are doing OK.

The engine drives the reverser. Its' hyd sump and pump is internal. The engine drives this pump directly off the back, via the reverser input shaft.

The whole thing works on hydraulics, and should engage the forward clutch and disengage the reverse clutch when the lever is in the forward position. The opposite occurs when the lever is in reverse. Both clutches are disengaged with the lever in neutral. Also when the clutch pedal is depressed, regardless of lever position.

What the reverser does, is either spin the transmission input shaft forward or reverse. So, this way all forward gears are also reverse gears. Handy, that.

What can happen is the valving or the clutch packs get screwed up such that one, or both, fail to completely disengage while the other is fully engaged. This causes friction, and load, and bogs the engine. This, then, leads to extra heat in the reverser. Sounds like this is not it, either.

So, now we have the transmission itself. Gears and shafts and nothing fancy here. If this has a fault, it can bog the engine, but is usually associated with the Bells of Hell noises. So, I bet this is not it, either.

This brings us to the steering and brakes. One on each side. Stacked, alternating, steel plates and fiber discs inside a drum. The brake on each side is a band around the outside of the drum. When steering, the lever needs to push a throwout bearing to release a pressure plate and allow the fiber discs to rotate free from contact with the steel discs.

This will drop power to that track. The opposite side keeps on driving, and the disengaged track will just freewheel. That makes for a very slow turn. So, as the lever is pulled further back, it applies that band brake. This stops the track dead, and the other track makes a short turn around the stopped one.

Now, the adjustment of each lever for the clutch to release, and *then* apply the brake is critical. If this is not right, clutch parts wear fast, and much extra power is wasted.

But, there is one more point to the brakes. And, where I think your problem lies....

There is a Master Brake Pedal. It applies *both* left and right brake bands independent of the steering levers....

So, if this is screwed up, you are going to be driving around with both brake bands engaged. These are powerful enough to stop the old 2-cyl engines. The 4-cyl Diesel has more chops, so I can see it struggling in low gear, then dying in the higher ones.

Now, there is a coaxial shaft under the front of the trans for the clutch and Master Brake pedals. These get gunked, rusted, and all sorts of sticky. The Brake can be pushed down, the brakes go on, and....Stay That Way!

This, with everything adjusted correctly.

So, now you get to see if that has happened.

Of course, there is always the Way Out Of Whack adjustment possibility.

Oh, and there is a Parking Brake to look for as well. That is a metal piece that flips up from the floor and into notches on the Master Brake Pedal. I have seen, more times than I would like to count, where this was set. And, not un-set. And someone say 'my tractor stopped moving'.....

Stan

Bob-O · Post by **Bob-O** » Thu Nov 12, 2015 5:01 pm

Stan, I don't think that the foot brake is messed up because as the machine is moving I played with it to see if I could feel/hear it working. As I am moving forward I start pushing the right foot brake and start feeling the resistance(but not till I have the pedal pushed a ways down). The engine starts to struggle and make some brown/black smoke and speed up rpm. I really have to put my body weight in it to get it to completely stop the machine and stall the engine. this is all being done without touching the clutch, just to see what happens. there are no noises in the transmission either but the engine still is week and there is no power. I did these tests in 1st mostly but tried 2nd and 3rd also. the same results happen in the other two gears but the engine will stall quicker. I am going to check compression at the glow plug holes again and see what it is with the rebuilt head now installed. before the head was done the compression was about 250psi at each cylinder. What should a good psi reading be for a good tight engine? I had a mechanic here in town tell me that 350-400 was optimal but 250 was not so bad that the engine would not have any power he didn't think. I wish that I had a good Injector pump and injectors handy to see what would happen with a knowingly good injection system on it. I am scared that if I have the pump rebuilt and injectors replaced and get it running again to find that the problem still exists then I would have sunk over a grand in it for nothing. I am almost tempted to try and find another motor that runs for it. I remember a thread somewhere else say that a certain type of combine had the same exact engine as the 1010 and that most of the time these machines still have good motors in them. can anyone confirm this or is it just talk.

Bob-O · Post by **Bob-O** » Thu Nov 12, 2015 5:09 pm

Can videos be downloaded to this message board? The reason I ask, I would like to make a short video of the machine in action and that way you all will truely know what is going on.

Scottyb · Post by **Scottyb** » Thu Nov 12, 2015 7:13 pm

I have a 1010 and it has a bracket for a backhoe. I cant recall if like in my 350s the hoe hoses must be connected when there is no attachment or, it will stall the engine. I keep it at a friends place or I would go and look. Do you have hydraulics on the back ?

mini kahuna · Post by **mini kahuna** » Thu Nov 12, 2015 7:47 pm

a video would be great if you could, show us starting up, running and moving around.

Bob-O · Post by **Bob-O** » Thu Nov 12, 2015 9:39 pm

Scottyb, it only has a hydrolic operated ripping bar on the back with two hydrolic cylinders to operate it. the Hoses are coming from the hydrolic valve box on the left of the seat where the controls for the front 6-way are. they all connect in the valve body and there are no quick connect fittings for the rear and no pto in the rear or anything just a block off plate were a pto should be. other than that there is only a drawbar and nothing else. I by chance came across a guy today while I was at the local Car Quest talking to some of the employees about the problem I was having with it. The guy told me that he had sold the dozer to the owner I bought it from. He also told me that he had the engine completely rebuilt and the injector pump was completely rebuilt before he sold it to the guy I got it from. I found this interesting because the guy I bought it from had told me that he had bought it with the low power problem and thought it needed a head rebuild. At this point, I don't know what to think. If the IP is rebuilt and so is the engine what the heck is going on with it. The guy also told me that the machine also had two new steering clutch kits in it and that there was no stuck brake problems or reverser problems when he sold it. this mystery is beginning to get a thicker plot to it.

Scottyb · Post by **Scottyb** » Thu Nov 12, 2015 11:12 pm

If you get this crawler working it sounds like you have a lot of new parts that should go for a while.

It still sounds to me like there is not enough fuel getting to the injection pump. Or perhaps the tank is not venting and you have a vacuum.

Is there a step up fuel pump on it or just gravity to the injector pump ?

I know you have fuel to the glass but, if you have not blown out the lines up to the tank I would recommend it. There could be screens there (at the tank) that are mostly blocked.

Injection pumps are beyond my experience so I cant comment on them. Fortunately, I have never had to repair one.

cdunn · Post by **cdunn** » Thu Nov 12, 2015 11:33 pm

I'm not a diesel mechanic, but it sounds to me like a case of "mouse turds". At least two, whom i would consider experts, have expressed it also. I would remove the injection pump have it checked/overhauled by a professional. As Stan says "There's no such thing as a cheap crawler". Just the cost of doing business .

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JD 1010 diesel crawler engine trouble

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