JD 1010 diesel crawler engine trouble

Bob-O · Post by **Bob-O** » Tue Nov 10, 2015 11:24 am

Hello all, I am totally new to this site but thought there would be someone who could help me with a problem I am having with a dozer/crawler I purchased about a year ago. The Dozer is a JD 1010 diesel with a 6-way blade and rear hudrolic ripper. When I bought the machine the owner told me that it did not have any power but ran. He was a mechanic and said that he thought the head needed rebuilt because he thought the valves were being floated when the engine was throttled all the way up. I payed $4500 for the machine thinking that I could have the head rebuilt and then I would have a good American built machine. I ended up spending over $600 to have the head completely rebuilt. The automotive machine shop reground the valves and lapped them, put all new valve springs and new valve guides and seals. I installed the head and got the machine running again but there still is no power. When I say no power I am talking about I put the machine in gear and let off the clutch and it starts to go but slowely starts to bog down until the engine stalls. The exauhst is sputting white and then black smoke and sounds like a missing gas engine. I checked the fuel system to make sure there were no injector line leaks or leaks at the IP and all looked good. I then removed the glow plugs one by one and tested compression. All cylinders were around 250psi. The machine does not burn oil and there are no knocks or strange sounds in the bottom end. I did the valve lash to specs and motor seems tight. I did some research on the timing and decided to retime the injector pump. After retiming and finding the spot where the engine has the most power I can now get going in 1st gear but there still is not enough power to go in 2nd, third, and 4th unless you are on level ground but when you turn the engine boggs down. I researched again and decided to do a pop test on the injectors. I made a tester out of a 2-ton bottle jack and found that most of the injectors where popping off at 1500psi. I shimmed the springs and got them up to 2200psi but the engine runs the same. The dozer has the old Roosa-Master injector pump and I don't know if the problem could be the pump or not. I have found out that parts for these diesel 1010's are almost non existant and the NOS parts that JD has are extremely expensive. the injector nozzles are over $500 a piece. does anybody have any ideas on what could be wrong here. Is there a way to test the IP to make sure it is working at the right psi?

Post by **Lavoy** » Tue Nov 10, 2015 5:03 pm

Don't know which series injector you have, but you are grossly over on pressure. Should be in the 1150-1600PSI range for American Bosh injector, can't find the spec right now for the Robert Bosch injector. I can't imagine this is doing the pump any good, and question whether or not the pump can even put out that pressure reliably. First order of business is to put injectors back where they were.
Depending on serial number, there are a couple different pumps, and they operate a little differently. I would have the pump bench tested to see how it performs, injection shop can do this for you.
As far as the valves floating, that was an outright lie, valves "float" due to excessive RPM, or I guess exceedingly weak springs. For a mechanic, I would be very disappointed in his response.
If possible, I would get the crawler on a dyno so you know exactly what it is putting out for power. I would also check pump timing just in case.
Lavoy

Bob-O · Post by **Bob-O** » Tue Nov 10, 2015 5:24 pm

After I had the head rebuilt and there was no change in power I kind of thought I had been dupped by the guy I bought it from. I called a John Deere dealer in Belen, New Mexico and asked him if they could get me the specs on what the injectors should be running at and he responed that 1500 psi sounded to weak and that 2500psi was usually what injectors ran at. He did tell me that he could not find the specs on the engine. I guess maybe he is used to newer injection systems and that is why he said 2500psi? So, I should take the injectors out and remove the shims? Before I shimmed them they were all running about 1200-1500psi. What kind of spray should they have, wide fan or narrow fan? Also, what kind of psi compression should I have at the cylinders? Right now they are all around 220-250psi.

Bob-O · Post by **Bob-O** » Tue Nov 10, 2015 5:30 pm

Oh, I almost forgot, the injectors are the early style AT 11077 injectors where the injector lines screw on directly to the top of the injector body. The pump is the Roosa Master DBGVC429 type with the bowtie base.

Bob-O · Post by **Bob-O** » Tue Nov 10, 2015 5:36 pm

How many degrees should the IP be timed to? I originally saw something on the web about 4 degrees BTDC but when I timed it to this ,the engine smoothed out but there was a complete lack of power when you put it in gear and tryed to move. I eventually kept moving it around and testing for power till I found a spot where the machine could finally move and not die. It will move right now but when you try to rip or doze with it , it will slowly bog down until it stalls.

Post by **Lavoy** » Tue Nov 10, 2015 7:53 pm

I would go to no more than 1500PSI, that is the top end of factory spec. Timing sounds right, but can't find my service manual right now.
Compression might sound a little low, but as long as it is consistent between cylinders, I think you are fine. My off the cuff guess is a fuel issue related to something internal in the pump, but no real way to verify this on the machine. Some of the diesel guys on here may have a better solution than me.
Lavoy

original possum · Post by **original possum** » Tue Nov 10, 2015 9:47 pm

Does it make a difference whether the engine is hot or cold?

Bob-O · Post by **Bob-O** » Tue Nov 10, 2015 9:47 pm

Thanks for the help Lavoy. I will double check compression, remove the spring shims in the injectors and pop test again. If all checks out I will remove the injector pump and take it to a injection shop to have it tested. If I find out it is not a injection pump or nozzle problem then I guess I will have to think about new rings and a hone job if that is possible with a sleeve deck in the block. If this is not possible do you know where I might find a new sleeve bank and new pistons and rings? If honing and new rings will work where might I find new rings that will work with the honed sleeves?

Bob-O · Post by **Bob-O** » Tue Nov 10, 2015 9:52 pm

Original Possum, the machine runs a little better when it is warmed up. Are you thinking that once the rings and pistons warm up it gets better compression and therefore runs better? If this is so then I guess I would be better off with new rings and hone or new pistons, rings and sleeve bank. I have thought of this also and wondered.

Post by **Lavoy** » Tue Nov 10, 2015 11:18 pm

I would not go the rebuilt route yet, all 1010's run better when warmed up, it is a function of indirect injection. Rebuild on a 1010 is very spendy, look to other alternatives first.
Lavoy

original possum · Post by **original possum** » Tue Nov 10, 2015 11:58 pm

I agree with Lavoy. It is hard to imagine wearing out an engine to that point if you can't do any work with the machine. If you have a PTO put a load on it and make sure the problem is really in the engine.

mini kahuna · Post by **mini kahuna** » Wed Nov 11, 2015 8:04 am

I have to ask if your 4 glow plugs are good, and if you are using them correctly.
that diesel requires glowing to start and glowing after it begins to run.
if you glow it to start and then let it run without glowing until it clears up it will fart, smoke and sound like it has 3 dead holes...mine will not clear up and run right without glowing after the start.
make sure all four glow plugs are good and glow it again after it starts, might be your whole problem.
prechamber deisels need an outside source "glow plugs" to generate heat until the internal parts in the combustion chamber can sustain this heat on their own.
I can be using mine, shut down for 20 min....needs glow to start and glow to clear up and she is running clean again.
I bought my machine for a song because the guy that had it thought it had a bad motor, I got it home,replaced 4 glow plugs and she has been running great for 4 years.

Bob-O · Post by **Bob-O** » Wed Nov 11, 2015 9:21 am

Mini Kahuna, I make sure that I glow before, durring, and after the machine turns over and starts running. While I have the ignition key turned to glow, I push the starter button and turn the engine over with the glow plugs still glowing. I continue glowing once the motor has started running and keep glowing til the engine starts to smooth out.

Bob-O · Post by **Bob-O** » Wed Nov 11, 2015 9:50 am

I thought that buying this John Deere 1010 was a good Idea but am starting to second guess myself. I originally was thinking of buying a Nortrac 35xtd dozer. I researched the web and found alot of forums telling people that buying a used American Machine was a better way to go than buying the China stuff. Everybody kept saying that buying used would be cheapper in the long run because parts would be less expensive and easier to find. Boy was this not the case with the 1010 Diesel Crawlers. The parts are almost non existant and the parts that you can find out there cost more than the whole machine is worth. NOS nozzles for the early style injectors are over $500 each. Used untested injectors off a salvage machine are $300+. Rebuilt IP=$670+ and a whole rebuild kit with sleeve deck is well over$5000. If i can't get the old girl running right I might have to try and sell her for what I have in her or strip her down and salvage her out on ebay.

mini kahuna · Post by **mini kahuna** » Wed Nov 11, 2015 11:30 am

my machine has the glow system built into switch....all the way counter clock wise for glow... all the way clockwise to start.
have you checked for power to the plugs while glowing?
are the glow plugs all good?
hope it turns out to be something easy for you.

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JD 1010 diesel crawler engine trouble

JD 1010 diesel crawler engine trouble

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